Steeda IRS Bushing Support Sytem

Toowired · Feb 25, 2015

This is Steeda's brand new IRS Bushing Support System.
Installation takes about an hour and can be done with the wheels on the car.
I would recommend taking the wheels off because it makes it easier to access everything.
Items needed
21 MM socket
13 MM socket
Impact or ratchet
5/32 allen wrench
lubrication
pry bar.

Loosen the 13 MM bolts on both sides.

Loosen the front 21 MM bolts

Loosen the rear 21 MM bolts so the subframe comes down 1/4-1/2 inch.

Remove the front 21MM bolts.

The thicker spacers will be used here. aligned the tabs on the spacer with the indentations in the bushing.

Install the front 21 MM bolts and just snug them down.

Remove the rear 21 MM bolts

Install the thin spacers in the rear and line up the tabs just like you did on the front.

This is the support for the rear bottom bushing. The smaller piece goes to the inside of the vehicle and the groove needs to face upward.

Install the smaller support by lubing up the bushing and sliding it around from the side.

The small portion of the support is mostly in place. use a pry bar to make sure it is straight.

Slide the other part of the support in between the busing and align the ends.

Using the pry bar wiggle the support back and forth until you have both ends lined up perfect. Take your time doing this so that the bolts start easily.

Tighten your 13 MM bolts and your 21MM bolts on the front and rear and you are done.

Mikeg4572 · Feb 25, 2015

Notice any difference?

SVTFreak · Feb 25, 2015

What are these for?

pinero61 · Feb 25, 2015

Hell of a write up! How do you like them? Worth the money I spent on them?

Toowired · Feb 25, 2015

There is no noticeable difference in NVH. Just driving around for the past 20 miles, I don't notice a difference in general suspension feel. I am probably not going to notice these until I take some higher speed corners or try and launch hard.

David@Steeda · Feb 25, 2015

Toowired said:
This is Steeda's brand new IRS Bushing Support System.
Installation takes about an hour and can be done with the wheels on the car.
I would recommend taking the wheels off because it makes it easier to access everything.
Items needed
21 MM socket
13 MM socket
Impact or ratchet
5/32 allen wrench
lubrication
pry bar.

Loosen the 13 MM bolts on both sides.

Loosen the front 21 MM bolts

Loosen the rear 21 MM bolts so the subframe comes down 1/4-1/2 inch.

Remove the front 21MM bolts.

The thicker spacers will be used here. aligned the tabs on the spacer with the indentations in the bushing.

Install the front 21 MM bolts and just snug them down.

Remove the rear 21 MM bolts

Install the thin spacers in the rear and line up the tabs just like you did on the front.

This is the support for the rear bottom bushing. The smaller piece goes to the inside of the vehicle and the groove needs to face upward.

Install the smaller support by lubing up the bushing and sliding it around from the side.

The small portion of the support is mostly in place. use a pry bar to make sure it is straight.

Slide the other part of the support in between the busing and align the ends.

Using the pry bar wiggle the support back and forth until you have both ends lined up perfect. Take your time doing this so that the bolts start easily.

Tighten your 13 MM bolts and your 21MM bolts on the front and rear and you are done.

That is an awesome write-up, thank you for posting! Great timing haha as we just posted ours as well!: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=477786#post477786

SVTFreak · Feb 25, 2015

Great write up btw, but still no answer. Even from steeda! Why does someone need these?

stoli · Feb 25, 2015

SVTFreak said:
Great write up btw, but still no answer. Even from steeda! Why does someone need these?

Supposed to cut down on wheel hop - videos here: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17990

Anthony · Feb 27, 2015

Dropping the cradle like that is going to need a alignment afterwards.

I dropped mine and its shifted to the drivers side. Might not be overly noticeable, but it will be. Watson has a custom jig to get it back In square

Toowired · Feb 28, 2015

Anthony said:
Dropping the cradle like that is going to need a alignment afterwards.

I dropped mine and its shifted to the drivers side. Might not be overly noticeable, but it will be. Watson has a custom jig to get it back In square

The bolts left marks on the subframe bushing. I lined up the bolts with the original marks.

Anthony · Mar 11, 2015

The whole cradle moves. My bolts were lined up on the washers too. Problem is the hole in the frame is huge.

Bmr has a set of bushings coming out that will also align the cradle. I'll be swaping the steedas out for the BMR to correct that problem

David@Steeda · Mar 11, 2015

Anthony said:
The whole cradle moves. My bolts were lined up on the washers too. Problem is the hole in the frame is huge.

Bmr has a set of bushings coming out that will also align the cradle. I'll be swaping the steedas out for the BMR to correct that problem

The team is aware of some issues with the IRS' subframe being misaligned from the factory - to reiterate we specifically released our kit to reduce subframe movement.

What we will be releasing in a week or so, is a solution to help align the subframe any time it is loosened and re-installed. Due to inconsistencies in the manufacturing/building process, subframe misalignment is very common on IRS assemblies. To clarify, there is a difference between subframe misalignment and wheel alignment. What we will be addressing with this new kit, is the subframe misalignment. Once this kit is installed and a wheel alignment is performed the first time, it will eliminate the need for unnecessary wheel alignments due to subframe misalignment. Our kit will guarantee that the subframe is aligned to the chassis at all times - all at a competitive cost to our customers.

RSKTAKR · Apr 23, 2015

I had read in the instructions for these I thought that as long as one side is loosened at a time that an alignment shouldn't be necessary? I have these installed and they reduce wheel hop but don't eliminate it. I didn't have the rear re-aligned and everything seems straight still however I am thinking about getting the Steeda sub frame alignment kit and installing it/them at the same time I install my drop springs and then have an alignment done afterwards since I would need it anyways because of the springs.

David@Steeda · Apr 23, 2015

RSKTAKR said:
I had read in the instructions for these I thought that as long as one side is loosened at a time that an alignment shouldn't be necessary? I have these installed and they reduce wheel hop but don't eliminate it. I didn't have the rear re-aligned and everything seems straight still however I am thinking about getting the Steeda sub frame alignment kit and installing it/them at the same time I install my drop springs and then have an alignment done afterwards since I would need it anyways because of the springs.

Correct, as long as you do one side at a time then no alignment should be necessary.

Yes, this is a great first step in reducing wheel hop - our support braces, vertical links and toe links will help even more!

The subframe alignment kit is to ensure your subframe was aligned properly from the factory - if it shifts, an alignment will be needed.

Renner · Apr 26, 2015

David...as I use my car for autox which one do you think would be the wiser first mod, the support braces or this bushing kit. The only suspension mod i have right now is the Steeda springs on a performance package Ecoboost...thanks for your guidance

Steeda IRS Bushing Support Sytem

Toowired

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Mikeg4572

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SVTFreak

#275

pinero61

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Toowired

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David@Steeda

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SVTFreak

#275

stoli

Fat Guy Racing

Anthony

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Toowired

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Anthony

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David@Steeda

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RSKTAKR

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David@Steeda

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Renner

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