Indeed...this seems like a great deal:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2017-...ash=item28574161ef:g:Um4AAOSwbopZSWJy&vxp=mtr
It does work quite well. I noticed that after the first clean with Sonax, the dust doesn't seem to stick as much. :shrug:I forgot to mention...for those of you that don't have time to wash your wheels after track day, I'd recommend something like Sonax or Iron-X. spray it on, rinse off...it gets most of the brake dust.
Why not? It makes sense to me if the root cause is something like running out of M/C cylinder or booster travel (i.e. bottoming) as opposed to a simple M/C to caliper "ratio" change in the direction of more effort. Note that I have no practical experience to support my guess. :doh:Vorshlag posted this. Honestly I don't buy it (their results switching to the brembos). Either very poor bedding or bleeding of their car. [MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION] [MENTION=26578]RedfireV8[/MENTION]
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10160272425130113&id=460717830112
Any way to get at that video without going through facebook?Vorshlag posted this. Honestly I don't buy it (their results switching to the brembos). Either very poor bedding or bleeding of their car. @Optimum Performance @RedfireV8
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10160272425130113&id=460717830112
That's not how a properly functioning and bled hydraulic system works, though. Brake fluid compressibility is extremely low and if your system is bled properly, master cylinder travel just goes into increasing the line pressure. I find it extremely unlikely that the <10% change in total piston surface area (between the full set of front calipers) is enough to require a different master cylinder to function properly. Yes, the PP master cylinder probably has a larger displacement, but that is done to provide margin by design at the limits (old fluid, some air in the system, still can exert enough pressure to stop the car). As an engineer in the auto industry, I would be shocked if their margins were that small to not be able to take up that change. I could be wrong, but I also know Ford engineering. Also, the GT350 MC is identical to the base, non-PP GT.Why not? It makes sense to me if the root cause is something like running out of M/C cylinder or booster travel (i.e. bottoming) as opposed to a simple M/C to caliper "ratio" change in the direction of more effort. Note that I have no practical experience to support my guess. :doh:
Thanks very much for the technical explanation!!!!That's not how a properly functioning and bled hydraulic system works, though. Brake fluid compressibility is extremely low and if your system is bled properly, master cylinder travel just goes into increasing the line pressure. I find it extremely unlikely that the <10% change in total piston surface area (between the full set of front calipers) is enough to require a different master cylinder to function properly. Yes, the PP master cylinder probably has a larger displacement, but that is done to provide margin by design at the limits (old fluid, some air in the system, still can exert enough pressure to stop the car). As an engineer in the auto industry, I would be shocked if their margins were that small to not be able to take up that change. I could be wrong, but I also know Ford engineering.
I find their conclusions difficult to agree with, especially when there are numerous folks on this very forum who have changed to these brakes and used them on track without issue.
Good info, thanks. I want to keep the base GT calipers as they fit the ethos of my build.For those thinking about if it might still be possible to stick with the base GT brakes....
- Steve Garvin (Chief Engineer) at DBA says that they are now exploring the possibility of changing the tooling to change the vent port on their rotors to the inside.
- If you can't wait for that, you can contact Mark Fowler at Bear, and he can set up their Eradispeed+ 2 piece rotors with slots only (off the shelf they come drilled and slotted). He has confirmed that the vent vanes are on the inside. Those rotors save some weight too.
I have no links of any kind with either company; just sharing a summary of some recent discussions I had with both.
You're welcomeFor those thinking about if it might still be possible to stick with the base GT brakes....
- Steve Garvin (Chief Engineer) at DBA says that they are now exploring the possibility of changing the tooling to change the vent port on their rotors to the inside.
- If you can't wait for that, you can contact Mark Fowler at Bear, and he can set up their Eradispeed+ 2 piece rotors with slots only (off the shelf they come drilled and slotted). He has confirmed that the vent vanes are on the inside. Those rotors save some weight too.
I have no links of any kind with either company; just sharing a summary of some recent discussions I had with both.
Oh by the way, I had seen this quite a while ago, but was recently reminded: the GT350 master cylinder is the same as the base GT (non PP). The claim is BS.@DR I hear you. I am very happy with my current 18" wheels (18x10 at all four corners, and only 23.5 lbs each) and tires; I don't really want to change them.
When I figure the cost of the brake and rotor upgrade, and the master cylinder, and the bigger wheels and tires, it's starting to look very expensive (even if the upgraded brakes and rotors are bargain NTOs).
Sure the Eradispeed+ 2-piece look expensive. But it seems like it should be less in the long run. Plus the whole package (aluminium hat rotors, 4 pistons callipers, 23.5 lb wheel) is looking like it will be substantially lighter than anything I can afford if I were to upgrade to the 6 pistons callipers. I am guessing that the lower rotational mass and the much better cooling with 2-piece rotors could each have noticeable effects. The price ($745.00) is no longer looking so bad. Now I just need to start saving up!