Yeah so in the second picture, the left is the top of the spring and right is the bottom. I can't really move the right arm any further towards the outside because it would bottom out on the strut and I won't be able to remove the compressor. Ditto for the left (top) side of the spring as well...
I'm needing to get my stock springs back onto the stock struts, but am having a hell of a time. Does anyone have any tips on getting them back on?
Every which way I set the clamp ends up compressing the spring really crooked. The first picture is what it looks like with the bottom sitting flush...
I've jacked my car up dozens of times using the pinch welds. The only reason you need jack rails is if your jack won't lift by the pinch welds without caving the side skirt in. The pinch welds are more than adequate for jacking.
Yes it's true, the 4 pots are just unlabeled Brembos.
I agree that it's a waste of money. Just get cheap pads to hold you over until you can get the PP Brembos. Good pads are going to run you around $500 front/rear. You're going to get them, go to the track, love them, want more, then upgrade...
Definitely change out the pads and fluid. I made a huge mistake running stock pads which were completely toast after 3 sessions.
I tried the Powerstop Track Day pads as a cheaper pad from recommendation of someone else on here and they worked great. I would suggest skipping out on more...
Oh my god man I can't thank you enough. I had this exact problem a few weeks ago and to make things worse, it showed up on the day I was leaving for the track. I thought something was wrong with my transmission and had to abandon the weekend. I actually left home, drove 30 minutes, then turned...
I did the grille delete, but holy cow is my AC condenser banged up. I straightened out what I could, but I feel like it's a waste of effort. Did you all paint the condenser black and does it help the look?
Also, what are the diagonal things I circled in red and what is the sensor circled in...
I read through this whole thread, but didn't find mention of any pre 18 base model GTs. Will the Bullitt calipers bolt right up to my 17 base model GT caliper bracket? Didn't know if they changed things between the years.
You know, everyone's bashing you for wanting to quiet down the cold starts, but you're not the only one. I would like headers, but can't because cold starts would be too loud. I'm not trying to piss my neighbors off. I also can't do the 18+ active exhaust mufflers since I have a 17 non-premium...
I'm curious, do we know how hot the MT82 gets exactly? At one event, I wasn't even pushing that hard, but the cup holder/shifter area in the cabin got almost too hot to touch. Maybe it's just normal.
I went there for the first time last week and am going back next weekend for an HPDE. I had a blast to say the least. The NCM instructors said this is the most technical track in the country FWIW.
Ruins clear coat as in it starts eating away things immediately? Or is it more like if you let it sit for weeks you'll start seeing the damage? It's a 2 day event and I'm really, really anal about paint.
I'm doing an HPDE next weekend at NCM and was looking for cost effective pads for the event. I didn't want to splurge on Carbotechs or G-LOCs since I'm going to be upgrading to the PP Brembos shortly afterwards.
I'll be running in the novice group so I don't expect to see insane braking. Hawk...
Mustangs are so common and owned by lots of non-enthusiasts who "want something sporty" so of course you're not going to get a lot of waves. I save the waves for modded Mustangs and will always get one back.
There is drone for me from 1600-2000. So for me with a base model 6MT and stock final gear, that means 6th gear anywhere from about 60-80MPH. People say they hate the drone of this exhaust and that it gives them headaches. I really don't mind and it's not that bad.
I'm gonna go ahead and say the track dampers do have the FP bump stops on them from the factory since they look exactly the same. I finished up my install last night and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary so I'd say the bump stops are good to go.
I bought only the M-18000-F shocks/struts and it looks like they come preinstalled with the M-5570-B bump stops. The preinstalled bump stops look shorter than stock, but does anyone know for sure if they're the M-5570-B? These are going to be paired with Steeda Ultralites and I was wondering if...