Search results

I love your videos.

Hey guys, so I went to the track today. I got in two clean runs. I drive a 2016 base 6MT with 3.31 FD. The car is stock aside from PP1, and has about 2100 miles. In case anyone is not familiar with PP1, it's a Ford warranty 'tune' that's supposed to add 13hp crank. I paid $402 shipped from...

Oooo, got it. To make sure I understand correctly, they're saying the 4.0 would replace those three F150 motors? Would there still be two motors in the Mustang lineup such as a small displacement EB and this TT motor?

Hey guys, so I went to the track today. I got in two clean runs. I drive a 2016 base 6MT with 3.31 FD. The car is stock aside from PP1, and has about 2100 miles. I did not play with tire pressures, and ran at 33 psi. I launched all runs between 1000 and 1500 and bogged or spun. Wheel hop...

Hasn't the 10-speed been in the F150s for like 3 months? Manufacturers always have issues, some small and some larger, when they introduce new tech. For example, the LT1 motor isn't revolutionary for GM in many ways, but its had its fair share of problems within the first year of production...

Maybe parked on a flatbed! :D

Sweet! That's awesome. Between that and the new auto tranny, it probably makes more sense to buy a '19 or '20 model year. I'm sure the new tech will have some teething issues.

Oh, cool! That's good! There's a lot of benefit to being able to change the timing of spark events. I also wouldn't touch anything that's not direct and port. Way too many headaches with carbon buildup without a hybrid system. This will be good for the aftermarket. Honestly, I'm surprised...

Do you know that it's getting DI for a fact? IMO, it's already too expensive to get into a V8.

They didn't know either. They said they don't touch the dyno or correction factors and its been set the same forever. Doesn't mean there isn't an issue, but I won't be sour unless the follow-up dyno is a total waste of time. Fingers crossed! Funny thing, I was videoing the pull, and at high...

I'd say if you have 3.73s, you should strongly consider PP3. For 3.31 owners, PP2 makes more sense. No one wants to go 75 in second gear, lol. There will be losses under the curve, and you spend too much time in that range with 3.31s.

Weird! Thanks for taking the time to add to the knowledge base for this part. I'm reading correctly in that the GT350 TB loses some power down low? Would some tune massaging correct that and maybe add power over stock?

Another thing to consider, the '18 EBs may have more power and some hardware changes? May be worth the wait to find out. For reference, I only run 93 in my GT with 3.31s, and the best I've seen on the highway is 28.1mpg. I typically get 23-25ish highway only, but I am aggressive with the...

Lol Blue lines = stock horsepower and torque Red lines = PP2 horsepower and torque When you look at the left of the graph, the upper set of lines is torque, and the lower set is horsepower. For any dyno, hp and tq intersect at 5252 from which horsepower will always be higher than tq...

If you just need a quick upload, try: http://tinypic.com/ It won't be hosted forever, but I too ran into an issue with Photobucket. Idk what's wrong.

These are corrected numbers. On a Dynojet my old MT82 car always put down accurate numbers in 5th. On a Mustang dyno it did in 4th, despite 5th's 1:1 ratio. Since it's a loaded dyno, the pull drags on for almost ten seconds, and the car doesn't like it (noses over). On the dyno I used...

That a stock car made 418whp on a Mustang dyno. I've spent some time with previous cars on Mustang dynos and this behavior is atypical. Usually they nose over in 5th, and make less power. For my '14, we HAD to dyno in 4th to get real numbers. This makes no sense, bit it doesn't matter. If...

Hey guys, did my baseline for PP1 today. Weird results. I used a Mustang dyno, thought it was a Dynojet before arriving at the shop, oh well, and made wonky numbers at 5th (418whp) and seeming more normal numbers in 4th (386whp). It doesn't really matter because we'll see the deltas on...

Keep the V6. I've spent some time in both. The 6 is a strong motor with consistent performance in all temps/climates. IMO, it has better durability, and you're already in one. You'll gain nothing going for the EB.

Start in 3rd, shift to 4th, and 5th, if going to 130.