Stock c7 corvette runs a 3.8 0-60 and a 12 second 1/4 mile. Youre going to need a minimum of long tubes, exhaust, cold air intake, and a tune, adding to the power you can get 47lb injectors and e85 if you want to stay NA.
As far as the IRS goes, id go with adjustable viking rear shocks and...
I understand this but I was referring to the directions you do not want it to move, the spherical bearings pivot from the center etc, but if you put load on it towards the center of the car, pushing force against the bearing towards the encasing, it has a little play
I do agree at that point...
Moving around the toe link while it was hanging down from the eccentric camber bolt, I could easily bend, twist, and move it around where I needed it to go. Maybe ford screwed up and gave me the wrong toe link even though I have the performance pack who knows, all I know is I gave the FTBR...
A Teflon-lined sealed spherical bearing with what I believe is a steel housing (or aluminum) should outlast the ford racing version that includes a metal housing that has what appears to be a rubber sleeve with a monopiece ball that had a delrin encasing. The ford racing version is a quality...
If you want a temporarily solution that is sufficient for the average driver, the PP toe link bearings will work fine for the knuckle. If you want the best of the best, going with full tilt boogie's bearing is the way to go.
If you got light weight wheels of the same specs and mounted the same tires, you'd feel a difference for sure in accelerating. What people usually end up doing is getting lighter wider wheels for heavier tires. You end up only saving a couple points but have 20mm or more width both front and...
I thought BMR had released that and their upper control arm, I know they are at development at least. I would try shocks first, if those don't work and you want a solution now, http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/2015_S550_Suspension_Parts_and_Tools.htm . Upper control arm deflects a ton under load...
Both upper and lower control arm bearings? Also sounds likes you still need the knuckle to toe link bearing. That is still odd that your car is still hopping though. Shocks and struts will get rid of the rest, ford racing should be sufficient or if you want adjustable just go with Viking rears...
:rant:
Not exactly free but basically free if you are upgrading :headbang: , I would still go with the FTBR bushing if possible though, the factory ford racing bushing will still have a little play in it based on its construction and internals.
The user above was saying he replaced the factory PP toe links with the BMR versions, and then he took the old toe link, pressed out the bearing in them, and then pressed them into the knuckle. I am not sure if they are exactly the same but apparently it worked
I chose the FTBR ones because they were made to perform, a lot of the OEM components and "aftermarket" like ford racing are made to be produced easily. The build quality of FTBR products in the past have been phenomenal and I would rather invest my money with that instead of going with the "OEM"...
Full Tilt Boogie Kunckle-To-Toe Bearing (FT 548) Home Install
Estimated Time Required (Proper Tools): 1-2 Hours
Estimated Difficulty (Proper Tools): Moderate
See the install write-up with large pictures here: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40901
Tools Required...
I have a set that I still have to install, these will definitely help. The big issue is not only the width of the drivers pedal but the actual height. In addition to installing these pedals, i recommend getting 3 half-inch washers and putting them between the pedal and the mounting surface, the...
There is a person running 295/30/19 front and 325/30/19 rear, you may be able to squeeze 305/30/19 front and 335/30/19 rear if you had perfect offsets and a "narrow" brand tire.