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My old engine did this on hot start pretty bad and I thought it was the phasers but after putting in a brand new long block from ford it still happens. Not as often or bad but still there. Same with the dying as I pull up to a stop light. Used to do it maybe twice a month. Only happens...

Just seems stretched for me if you care about performance. Figured I'd ask.

Why are you running a 285 on a wheel that wide in the back?

Sounds like a vac leak. You should have more than -9 at idle. Closer to -15/ -18 at idle (I think without checking).

Already got a set in the garage! 🤣

Not sure if i agree on doing both. Rear driver side is usually first and most likely to go. My driver's rear has gone twice but the right rear and fronts all have over 100k miles on them. Still kickin...

Don't trust the built in vac guage. It's inferred and doesn't read off of a real vacuum source. When I blew my engine it still showed 19ish even though my eboost was showing under 13.

That's one of the most enjoyable parts of an 800hp mustang. My 5 year old daughter begs me to go fast when mama isn't with us. Then she tries to describe her face to me. "Daddy it's a scared face but good scared!" 🤣🤣🤣

Well that's a little more than i was thinking but if everything still rotates the correct way freely and without issue you should be fine when it goes back together.

Unless you were turning it in backwards a lot you'll be fine. A little bit when the bolt broke loose shouldn't be enough to do anything.

Only have 10k on my boundary gears but holding strong. My stock ones looked new at 96k miles though amd I tap am 8k limiter quite often.

My mustang radio used to do that every 6 months or so. Hasn't happened in a couple years now though. It's also died occasionally pulling up to a light but fires right back up. Only did that once in the last year or so, so I hadn't thought much about it until you posted it.

If you want reliable don't skimp on fuel. If your not doing a fuel system spent the extra few hundred and get the bap with your injectors. It's just extra insurance to make sure you always have enough fuel.

If you go into it not expecting additional charges you are fucked. Everybody may be sayin how great it is but that's not realistic on a high compression engine with boost unless your prepared. Is it worth it? Absolutely! But extra costs are a given. Tranny, maybe. Clutch, maybe. Half shafts...

Definitely check for leaks first but my gt has 105,xxx miles and always smells like something is burning. I assume it's just rubber and exhaust but last week I was on the dyno and after the first pull the operator shut it down and freaked out because he thought he smoked my clutch. I told him...

They're going to have to offer a tune with the kit to get anywhere with carb. No kit out there is carb legal once you ditch the tune it comes with.

Make sure there is no air in the system. My s550 engages high too, stock clutch and aftermarket both. Why yours didn't but does now is Interesting though.

If you don't pull the tape before it's dry the plastidip on the tape and emblem could have dried attached and peel from your emblem while your pulling it off. I did all my emblems years ago and waited to pull the tape. Only the pony stuck, probably because if the quanity if curves but I had to...

Sounds like a coyote!

So for op who is looking for low boost the ho kit would be fine and run off the same belt correct?