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You'll need to pull the code to figure out what caused it. If the light went off then it's probably not an active issue anymore

My hellion was 10k with the full kit, injectors, bap, exhaust plus meth kit. Hit up beefcake and price match before deciding. Online prices are deceiving but some can do better.

Thats right, I thought you were one. Crazy turning the KS down didn't help. I habe the same issue in my TT kit but on my KS tune I'm gold even when power shifting. After a new engine, new motor mounts and all I thought I might go away with the old engine but it'd still there on my normal tune so...

There's been a few ess guys chasing false knock too so no one's immune from the possibility of having to deal with it. I don't recall if either one reported back on the cause though.

And you'd have 100 more horsepower and be able to talk shit about lund with everyone else! 🤣

That makes sense. If I'm going that fast the other guy is always behind me.

If vendors/ youtube tell enough people things are great most people will just drink the cool aid without questioning it!

Interesting... I get a little hood flutter cruising on the freeway but on pulls up to 150 my hood and car are surprisingly planted and stable.

My rotors lasted about 85k miles. I upgraded around 40k miles and used them for another 45k miles before swapping rotors and pads. They were still in spec but low enough I wasn't going to try to turn them, especially the way I drive. No hard baking under normal circumstances but I do a lot of...

I know your not interested in aftermarket but if your car is a pp1 hawk 5.0 pads are much better than oem. Less brake dust, better stopping power and longer life. Oem isn't always the best option.

Sounds about right. Half of American is gay. Got it. 🤣

If you already have 60k miles on a 2019 there's not much warranty left, if any, to worry about. Any power adder at low boost will be safe on a coyote as long as fuel and tuning are good.

While watching your video I was like "yep, that guy lives in Az" Checked your profile to confirm!

I have no idea if the regulator is necessary but 4an should be good for the feed!

Turbos only need so much oil so I wouldn't go too overkill on it. My return pump belt barely turns the gear. I was sure it wouldn't pump quick enough and thought I'd burn oil in the turbos but it's been solid. Make sure you have the right size restrictor on the feed too.

I'd tap into the oil pressure sensor fitting to feed it. Mine returns through the oil filler via a pump so your on your own there! But I'd think a fitting down low on the timing cover would work to avoid drilling the composite pan?

A whole lot of shit coming your way again! LOL I notice on my set up shifting out of 3rd by 7k, instead of holding it to 8k seems to pull the hardest on my butt dyno. This mainly applies to my 3-4 shift. 1-2 and 2-3 come and go so quick I don't notice any difference but getting out of 3rd and...

Keep your cats and make sure your tuner doesn't turn anything off and you shouldn't have a problem passing emissions. Unless your in cali and dealing with carb.

Ran e85 and stock manifolds for over 40k with no issues. Spent the last 50k running boostane through it turboed and still no issues with the stock o2s. Over 98k miles now and I'm still running the o2s from the factory.

Dude you have a cj. Run that! Turbo lag isn't really noticeable on the hellion kit so even if the cj moves the power band up I'm guessing it would be negligible with turbos and the cj will scream up top.