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Just in case you're tracking, narrowed down the tire differences via the vpn number on the tire. All variants identified. DId not solve the dillema. All the 265/35 variants (a generic, a Porsche, and a BMW) will have the rim protector. The 305/30 will not. Guess it's on to plan B...

Michelin is actually known for, and I think they even openly state the possibility…you can get different sizes within the same tire and they will look completely different by having different designed sidewalls. Case in point, happened to me today. Discount got my new tires in. Cup 2 (240)’s...

If anything, the o-ring could be argued a consumable. The drain plug, absolutely not. Currently rocking 46,000 miles/9 oil changes on the original plug & o-ring. No seeping, nada. And I sleep like a baby. And before someone throws out the term “cheap insurance”, dumbest term ever because...

^^ What he said ^^ also currently on my third compressor, which btw (knock on wood) is not a Ford compressor and holding strong.

Yes. It's an on/off switch and I think it's called throttle hang/rev hang or one other name. Looking for it now. But yes, can turn it off and it does what you're describing. But, it's not as drastic as you may be hoping for. It's not as agressive as in a carbureated car where the throttle...

Yup, all of mine have been one. In fact, all of mine have been the left one.

Oh, agreed. Just don't really understand why mine fit just fine. Maybe I have mine installed wrong, LOL.

I wonder if the sway bar is the difference for people that have noted clearance issues with Steeda links? Because mine fit just fine with the stock bar and the Ford Performance bar.

I have the Steeda both at stock ride height and lowered on 5300 springs and sway bars. No clearance issues and they are rock solid. I've bent sway bar end links on every Mustang I've ever owned.

OK...I'm awake this morning, LOL. Those $400+ hubs are for a pair, not individual, LOL. Still don't want the ARP studs, so I may just get the hubs from OPM so I can get my matching studs. Dang it.

Good point, and will inspect. But mainly because I have an expensive set of MSI studs that are in perfectly good shape. Sure, there's the slight chance they may be loose when pressed into the new hub, but that's the only risk. If that occurs, I'll cross that bridge when I get there. But from...

So I’m shopping for rear hubs and finding parts running the full spectrum of prices and part numbers. First thing first, I don’t need studs. I have OPM studs I’ll be swapping from my current hubs. So I don’t need the flashy “Ford Performance” ones that have the ARP studs, but I want the best hub...

Well, with the wheels on it, can actually get a descent amount of spinning speed. Got my detailing done, car inspected, and all back together. Trying to spin the wheels best I could, the left (where I suspected the noise from in the first place) most certainly has a different grinding/rubbing...

Welp, as my luck would have it - she’s up in the air, all belly pans off, brakes completely off…and I found nothing. The hubs, you just can’t spin fast enough to tell anything. I feel nothing in them and both sides feel the same. No debris or anything rubbing on a rotating part. I’ll keep...

Thought of that too. Finally gotta get it up in the air tonight and get the wheels and everything off and start digging around. If it doesn't slap me in the face, gonna do a super great post road trip detail and take it from there. If the problem doesn't slap me in the face and it's still...

Yeah, dang it. Looks great. Don’t know why it didn’t like my car. I just saw Radium had a booth at an event I was just at and I forgot to swing by and talk to them about my car. Oh well.

thanks guys. All on the list to do. Gonna get it post road trip detail, then up in the air and start snooping around. Hopefully something jumps out at me, or falls apart in my hand. Will gladly take either one. Will keep ya updated.

Funny enough, that's the only thing I've done so far. And at the end of a 500 mile drive. No variances in tire, brake, center wheel/hub area. Great minds! I gotta get it up in the air next week and start digging.

UUuggghhhh! So first off, I know diagnosing noises over the internet is futile at best. I just want to talk this outloud to make sure I'm hunting in the right spots using sound logic. But I have a pretty darn predominant (and very new and distinguishable from existing noises) hum/buzz noise...

Slightly on topic - look at Sunoco E85R. I get that. It’s a slight chunk cheaper than the VP and IMO, just as good. Consistently tests out of the barrel at 90-92. Like you, my car absolutely loves it.