Its ok to rev it out. Take it up to 7k. it'll be fine. Let her stretch her legs every once in a while when the opportunity arises. whether or not it cleans out the motor, who knows, but it'll cleanse the soul and that works for me. If you're mashing gears and revving it out to 7800+ rpm every...
Thanks man. I wasn't even looking to buy a fox but I came across it and It was too good of a deal to pass up. I was hoping for a factory 5.0, but it was hard to find an affordable one that wasn't beat up or gutted.
So 4 months after having a bottom end failure on my 2015 car, it's finally finished. Failure ended up being the #5 Rod bearing spun, #2 main bearing spun, and several main bearing journals on the crank were not getting oil. The cause is thought to be over RPM at some point, but honestly the...
It should be done pretty soon. I've been bouncing around a little for the Army, so unless its done soon I probably won't be around when it's done. The machining is done and they started to reassemble it yesterday.
I didn't find out why. They said it could've been a few different issues...
Yes there were stock. And still intact. I have MMR going into the new motor.
Oil was just changed a couple days before it happened.old oil was clean when I changed it. Obviously the oil after the problem was full of flakes. they checked pretty much everything else down to the bare block...
Here's a shot of the bad areas on the crank. And the new stuff finally ready to go in. #5 rod journal was grooved and then those two mains had evidence of excessive heat build up/ oil starvation. Just about every rod bearing was showing signs of oil starvation according to him. Oil pump gears...
UPDATE: cylinder number 5 rod bearing spun. By the damage they saw, they said it looks like it was either starving for oil, or over pressure on that cylinder. The rest of the engine was fine. No signs of detonation or anything on the top end going wrong. The crank is reusable, they're going to...
The hose pointing left off the "T" should have a brass reducer that will connect to the under the fuel rail to the hose at the front of the intake manifold. The bottom portion will connect to the air intake tube. Also your MAF sensor shouldnt be vertical like that. Rotate it so that it is...
Not yet. I am going to check in with the shop today and see if they've got anything.
Hard to spend the extra cash when you don't have it though -_- I updated a few posts back that I was going with a stock block, Wiesco pistons and Manley rods, upgraded OPG. It's all I could fit into my...
The engine would have to be raised a little or the oil pan would hit the electronic steering computer, just a few inches. There looks to be more then enough room to slide it out once the radiator, condenser, etc is out.
I have 20x8.5 up front 20x10 in the rear. Mickey Thompson et street II in the back. First will break loose a little, but traction all the time otherwise in dry weather
I have mine taken down all the way and I'm pretty confident that with an engine stand and an extra jack to support the transmission I could definitely take the hood off and then yank the engine out. My driveway is just on a steep slope which is why I can't do it at home
Definitely need to take care of that. I removed it while I was doing my install. I took the nut, bolt and bracket off and zip tied the line in a couple spots.
Damn dude. Sorry to hear about that. Sounds like the same crap that happened to me. I'm going with stock block, Wiesco pistons, Manley rods and depending on how the crank looks it'll either be getting replaced, or sent to the machine shop to be fixed if it's not too bad.
good luck with your...
Damn didn't hear about that. I was running Mobil 1. MMR OPG coming today, waiting on the rest of the internals to get in. The car is going to the shop on Wednesday and they're going to tear it down.