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What altitude are you at? I have a D1 with the 4.88 and seeing only 10psi on my built in boost gauge on a 15 GT. I know it's not perfectly accurate but I was hoping to see at least 12psi. I'm thinking of going with a smaller pulley.

Can a Whipple even make 1000whp? I know some twin turbo setups not making 1000whp with everything thrown at it.

That is a sick kit. My only beef is the turbos are hidden under the car. I know these are second to none, but I want to see my hair driers when I open the hood. But killer setup. I know a guy down the block making 920whp on the Hellion kit. You should make similar power.

No reason to paint when wrap is cheaper and protects your paint when you sell.

I bought a full set of pistons, rods, rings. When I get the energy I'm going to pull the motor, pull the drivers head and see what the damage is. Guessing ringlands from excessive detonation. Hoping I can just slap the pistons in and throw it back together as long as there is no head damage. But...

200psi

You shouldn't have to accept knock. If it's false then you can find and fix it. But if it's real knock, then tune needs to be adjusted. They can adjust a tune to run on 87 so the gas shouldn't matter. They can pull timing if needed to compensate for lower octane.

I made a new thread.

Depends how your car is running. If it runs good and they say you're good you should be good. But I was told I didn't need a revision either and my car ran like shit. So I say it just depends. They can't know how your car feels so you have to speak for your car.

Markmurphie, here are the compression results. Added oil and gained 20-30psi. Pics are top to bottom cylinders 7, 8, and 6.

Just noticed I need to change my signature. No longer have Lund tune.

Oh I agree. My only issue is when tuners and engine builders don't take any responsibility. When you have logs clearly showing knock, the tuner should tell you and say let's take a step back and figure this out. You don't just assume it's false and keep going when the car pulls timing. And then...

Dasan was the tuner. I'm not saying your problem is the same thing, just saying what happened to my car. The tunes always had tons of knock and Lund never told me. I had to tell them and then they said it was false. The car was dead even with a 2016 2SS auto with Lund. With the new tune I blow...

Well I was Lund tuned with Procharger and they couldn't tune my car. Finally started throwing misfire codes so I showed logs to another tuner. I saw all kinds of knock. Told me to check compression and I have cylinders 7 and 8 under 100psi. Got another tuner and he tuned my car first try, but...

Will a F150 APIM Do you guys know if this APIM from a 16 F150 would work? I really need a Sync 3 upgrade

To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure. My brain is hung up on shifting at 7k and 10psi is the most I've seen on my built in boost gauge in the HUD. So it might make a bit more at 7500,I just need to stop granny shifting. I start seeing the tach hit those lines at 7k and brain says shift. Lol. But...

I think most issues were fixed with Sync 3. It's the Sync 2 from the 2015 and older that I have issues with. And the fact that there are no good upgrades is the other annoying thing. Oh well. Live and learn.

I have a 4.88 and only making 10psi. Looking for something smaller to get to 12-14psi. Thinking like a 4.5 or so, but not sure. I asked Procharger and Lund for 12psi, they gave me the 4.88 pulley.

I feel that. But one of the reasons I got a Premium was for Sync. I just didn't realize the 2015s had a different Sync than 2016+. It's worthless to me honestly

Do you have a smaller pulley you want to trade for a 4.88?