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The tire guy wants to sell you new tires. not help you stretch the life of the tires you have. Rotating tires to different wheels is fine as long as the sizes are compatible like they are here. The old Goodyear spec tires for the SRF were a single size, with a 5.5" F / 7" R wheel stagger...

An interesting comparison may be to the Ford Racing School Cars. PP Track Pack Square wheel & tires (rear 9.5" PP wheels all around [needs a front spacer]) Camber plates and I think more track oriented pads No "stop the hop" rear diff stuff, which if you ever autocross or time trial, will bump...

A curry comb works for cleaning the tires. In particular, when you have rocks and pebbles imbedded in the rubber (very common with soft slicks). For just rubber pickup, I usually don't worry about it. Just do a little scrubbing on the warm up lap.

Trying to convert an existing car is cost prohibitive for Magneride. In choosing a car, step 1 what is your planned usage, step 2 what do the rules says if you plan to use it in competition, step 3 what is the real cost of the options/mods. A lot of times Magneride is often only available...

Well, this certainly reduces my desire for a Mach 1 significantly.

But the GT500 can refuel and be ready to go again in 5 minutes. While the Telsa will be ready to go again in 8 hours. Plus the GT500 will be much faster on a road course. The last road course test I saw of a Tesla (at VIR Grand), the car the car overheated and started pulling power halfway...

You're not going to keep up with a GT350 in a regular, small brake GT unless the GT350 driver really doesn't know what he is doing. I am surprised you haven't run out of brakes yet. The "best" way to crash in a HPDE is by trying to keep up with/or in front of a faster car/driver. If you...

What class are you running? Stock class limits you to stock size wheels (+/- 1" diameter). Which works out to 19x9 (-1" of the optional 20x9 wheels). Read the rules and watch out that your IC Upgrade doesn't bump you up a class or three. The cheapest 200 TW tires I think are the Maxxis...

Just keep the stock wheels for winter and get some wider ones for the rest of the year.

Plus remember almost everything BUT super sticky tires (R compounds or slicks) is legal in CAM-C. So you might be giving a lot away in addition to your tires. When the spec tire changed on the SRF from the bias ply Goodyears to Hoosier R7s. I saw a 5 second improvement on most road courses...

How does the cost compare to aftermarket replicas (some are <$150 ea.)? Also, it often pays to have a separate set of winter wheels and/or track wheels. Then you have to think, how confident are you in a cast wheel that is cut apart and then welded back together. Plus I assuming widened...

Solid advice. To which I would add: Be prepared to rotate tires, and check your tires after every session. Drive as fast as you are comfortable with and in control. It is not a race and there will be no scouts from Team Penske looking to hire the fastest driver.

Put Cup2's on the 1LE or real street tires on the PP2 and that slight edge is gone.

I have test driven a SS 1LE and it was fine for the street. About the same as my GT PP + Track Pack. Now the ZL1 1LE, yeah, that is not fun on the street. Better left to those who live 10 minutes from a track and/or plan to spend most of their time there.

Too much oil gets whipped up by the crank and actually reduces oil pressure and lubrication. Though this is pretty much only at high rpm. But adding a little extra oil used to be a common practice for road course guys who were worried about oil starvation with old school (crappy) oil pans...

Bigger problem is people like to add big(er) wings, but do nothing up front to balance them out. More rear downforce and same front downforce = push.

C&D tests stock cars, not modified cars (except under special conditions). Aftermarket wheels = modified. I imagine any Mach 1 in the press fleet is in high demand, and if Ford sends it to you with worn tires, well you just test it with worn tires (the Cup2 of the handling package tires kinda...

Right, some 18" wheels will fit with the Brembo's but clearance will be minimal (snow & gunk likes to build up in odd places sometimes) and they are usually more expensive than 19" options. I would use the heavy OE wheels for winter use and get something lighter and wider for summer/performance...

Plus nose & splitter are composite. So useless for leading edge protection, which is where most wear happens. Still useful for behind the wheels tire splatter protection. Opps, even there behind the rear tires is composite. So only works for behind the front tires.

And asked why you don't buy 19x10's, a better track choice. SVE only offers 8 different s550 wheels in that size.