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Still no word on ETA?

The whistling came and went seemingly randomly. It would literally fade in and then fade out or stop on its own and did not seem to be affected by me being on the throttle or just coasting, different speeds, or braking/ not braking. It's bizarre. Keep in mind this was happening literally...

It's a pretty big difference; much "tighter" and the floaty feeling is gone. I haven't really pushed it yet, but it feels planted and gives me the confidence to apply more throttle. Stickier and wider tires are needed to really complete the package and that's next on my list! Also, despite all...

Is there any downside to installing these on a non-PP car where the upper front control arm bushings are rubber?

I'm all over these!

I just had them installed...will see how they do after a few months...

What about low speed clunking, like from a dead stop and shifting into first or abrupt throttle from 2nd to 3rd? I noticed that when I was almost home yesterday. What obvious things should I be looking out for as a "problem"?

As another follow-up, TFB was (and still is) extremely communicative during the install process, which took a lot longer than expected, because of their packed schedule and some missing components (J&M links were missing a couple of spacers in the box) and they are currently helping me diagnose...

From what I understand, extremely minimal for this location.

My best shot at before/after stance. Should I expect things to settle some more or nah?

The work seems very solid, but they are a track support shop and always seem swamped with race car prep, so the work will take longer than 2 days. On my drive home almost immediately after leaving the shop, I noticed a whistling sound coming from the rear. It comes and goes and was really...

The shop set my sway bars at: front: full stiff rear: full soft That is their recommended setting for a street setup. Sounds right to me, more grip in the rear and less likely to oversteer.

Thanks for your input- really appreciate it. I guess I'll find out after I pick it up. I'm expecting a night and day difference compared to before...hopefully for the better! :)

So-having the front and rear camber in the same range is preferred? I noticed that Ford's Track alignment specs have a bigger negative camber out back compared to the front spec. How does the bigger negative camber # in the rear affect how the car handles compared to having the front and rear...

Thanks, it looks like the car is ready for pickup tomorrow, so I'm gonna go get her. Here is the alignment sheet- how does this look?? camber looks pretty aggressive and I'm a little concerned by the rear toe- is this a concern?

Well, here we are another week later and still don't have my car back... :( As of a few days ago, the shop told me that the J&M Vertical Links needed some kind of spacer that wasn't included to properly install them. Not sure what that's about, but apparently they contacted J&M late last week...

You received some good advice above, but something you should do before any of that is: drive the car for awhile and determine exactly what it is you think needs "fixing". None of these things are automatic upgrades, especially suspension components which all work in concert with each other...

Thanks, I'm going to ask them today and see what for...

Hey guys, I just got an update from the shop doing my suspension work and they said that they had to order a "special tool" to do the bushing replacement. I assume this involves the toe link and RLCA bushings. Is it really possible that a professional suspension shop at a race track DOESN'T...

In my experience, the Roush has a very slight drone at about 2200-2500 rpm in normal mode, cruising on the freeway at about 75 mph, but there is zero drone for me below 2200 rpm or at any other rpm. The Roush AB is one of the best performing exhausts that I've heard with regards to drone, ie...