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Agree, the time in 6th is real short then the shift to 7th occurs which is 1:1.

Yes, one would think so but some of the folks using HP Tuner software seem to struggle finding the right combination of limits to modify. I noticed on Steeda’s Mach 1 tune video that their tune raised the 6-7 shift point.

A GoPro and Track Addict helps…..

21 HP in Track Mode, auto shifting, the WOT acceleration typically shifts at 7400rpm in the lower gears but the 6-7 shift occurs at 6800rpm. My research seems to indicate that one would need a tune to raise this shift point. Has anyone been successful in raising the 6-7 shift rpm point and who...

Nice install! Are you planning on any track or drag use? What size SC pulley are you starting out with?

@TRDFurgesson Can’t wait to see the videos this coming spring with those R7s and all of your other updates!

@TRDFurgesson. Beautiful! Since i drive to the track, I’ve been running the GY SC3R 305/325 staggered on Apex wheels, been a pretty nice tire so far.

First track run in the M1 HP was too cold for the cup2 tires, put on my road wheel non HP set with 265/285 35-19 PS4S tires.

For me, dual rates are fine on 12 hour road trips and the weight shift on track was vastly reduced. I don’t notice any understeer on track but I’m only running about 8/10’s, just having fun at Sebring.

Steeda dual rate springs here, softer completion rear sway bar. I made the lower splitter easily removable, take it and the gurney flap off for road trips. For me, this is a really nice setup for a track/road trip car.

I am running Apex wheels 19x11 ET26 wrapped with Goodyear SC3R 305/30 tires up front with Steeda dual rate springs without any rubbing.

The A10 transmission keeps the revs up nicely but the ECU protects the CHT by limiting the 6-7 shift at 6800 rpm. It will also lower the shift point if it thinks the CHT is getting too warm. The ECT is a calculated value I believe derived from the rate of change of the CHT. I experienced lower...

I believe this recommendation is for the 2.3L turbo high output engine. I use 5W-40 during track season as I had a low oil pressure warning once that put the car into limp mode.

I remember reading that it is possible to remove the lower splitter and belly pan as a single unit by removing just the 7mm screws.

A good video on the differences between motor trend and car & driver braking tests…. PS, I installed the track orientated Essex/AP Racing kit on my M1, easier install than the GT350R route, all of my wheel sets clear, and the system works very wheel on track. It is a bit pricy though...

You probably already did, but re-install the screws after the lower splitter is removed.

I used a small burr bit on a drill to create a center point and then an air hammer with a pointed tip and just knocked them out. But that was from underneath the vehicle. If you can remove the lower splitter with the splash shield, you may be able to just cut them with a flush cutter. If I...

Assuming you’re inquiring about the lower splitter that is standard equipment on a M1 HP and the aftermarket splitter attaches in the same manner, then if you just want to remove the lower splitter the plastic rivets need to be removed. I believe the lower splitter can be removed with the belly...

I put the dual rate Magneride springs on, didn’t lower it much, about 0.5”, no rubbing, much better handling on the track.

That’s the display I have up all during a session.