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It’s not an oil cooling problem in the M1, seal off the air flow to the radiator and you’ll see CHT temps recover much more quickly after those runs on the straights where the A10 is keeping the RPM’s up. There are big gaps around the radiator, sealing those up helps a lot. At Sebring, I was...

It’s not too bad, the worst part for me was disconnecting the electrical connectors when pulling the bumper cover off. There’s a long thread over in the road course section with lots of info, but the M1 has the advantage of an engine oil cooler…...

I watched your track video and see you have the A10 as I do. The cylinder head temps (CHT) creeps up rather quickly on track since the A10 keeps the motor up in the rev range. I never had a coolant temp code, but did notice that the revs would pull back from 7400 to 6800 rpm when shifting at...

This tool and your favorite polish…. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NA9FIWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is different, so all of your hardline fitting threads were messed up, not just the very end threads?

I think some of OEM flex line cast blocks don’t run the threads quite deep enough and it messes up the very end of the hard line fitting’s thread. My two fittings that were messed up didn’t appear to be over torqued. I’m just guessing 😉

This just happened to me on both of my Mach 1 rear hard line fittings when removing the rubber OEM lines. In my case, it was just the end threads of the hard line fitting that were messed up. The trick tool to clean up the threads is a split 10x1.5mm die sold on Amazon...

I track at Sebring with a Mach 1 HP often which is really bumpy in some of the turns. After a couple of track events, I installed the DR springs along with drop links, rear camber and toe arms and rear cradle bushing supports and alignment. The handling was vastly improved on track even in the...

I’ve been using about 40-45% of f/r pad in 3, 25 minute sessions at Sebring using Hawk DTC60 and DTC70 front and ER-1 rear pads when you can get them. Also ran Cobalt and Carbotech on the front with similar wear. Sebring has lots of hard breaking areas, turns 1, 3, 7, 10, 13, 15 and 17.

Carbotech XP12 on the front

Yes, not sure when it cracked as I check the rotors when airing up and down after each session. I did do the 2 hour drive home from the track without any issues.

Looking forward to meeting up at the track one of these days and getting additional data. Was out last Sunday, but our afternoon session was cut short with a couple of black flags. May have been a blessing though given the shape of my RF brake rotor!😳

I was hitting the RPM pull back in a M1 at 84deg ambient at Sebring after about 5-6 laps with an A10. I boxed in the radiators with silicon rubber sheet and RTV and didn’t have any RPM pull back at 92deg ambient last track day.

To remove the factory set screws, you can jack up the corner just enough to allow the strut studs to lower down so you can move the strut around to access the set screws through the holes in the upper strut mount. During track season, I set my front camber at -2.5deg and just leave it there.

Good point! For the HP cars, taking the bumper cover off with the splash shield/belly pan attached avoids all of the plastic rivet removal. I’ll edit my previous post.

On the connector, the red tab is pulled back and the there is a plastic bridge located just in front of where the red tab was that you press down to release the connector shells. It’s sort of like the red tab is the release so you can press down the latch for the connector shells. If you have...

I see you ordered a new one but if it happens again, here’s a thread on a potential repair I did that was fairly straight forward…. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-splash-guard-repair.176921/#post-3604429

Before it gets too bad, glob on some JB Weld plastic Bonder black. I patched up some holes I got on a road trip last summer, worked good. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-splash-guard-repair.176921/#post-3605252

I have a 21 Mach 1 HP and picked up a set of wheels that were for the base M1 in that year, but went +1 on the tires 265/285-35/19. Used on track last January cause the temps were in the 30-40’s. I also use them for road trips to save the track tires.