Search results

@TRDFurgesson I am running the anti-rattle clips, on the front you need to bend them out a bit so there is pressure on the pads but you can still get the cross bolt in without breaking your thumb. I did have Essex burnish the rotors, still shipped the same day I ordered them. Essex...

I would recommend keeping the non-HP wheel set for long road trips, use the HP wheel set for the 305/315 PS4S tires for cold/wet/learning track duty, and get a set of APEX wheels for the cup2 tires for those good weather track days. APEX has a real nice tire/wheel fitment guide for the mustang...

Usually one a month Oct-May, too wet and hot in the summer down here. Here’s a link to my install thread…. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/essex-ap-racing-brake-upgrade-with-e-brake-install-review.191405/

I got tired of screwing around and went with Essex AP Racing front and rear.

The OEM brakes, front and rear, were just not up to the task. We run at Sebring, which for me, is very hard on the brakes. We have done two seasons and gone through lots of different pad and rotor combinations. I did purchase the anti-rattle clips for the calipers and do use them. Just as a...

I don’t think so. Here’s a link to the performance kit, it include different knuckle, drive shafts, e-brake, etc https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-2300-Y

I believe the Essex kit for the GT350 rear does in fact maintains the OEM E-brake functionality. The GT/Mach 1 uses a different hub/caliper.

Here is some additional details on the ebrake install. The modifications to the Wilwood bracket included: Drilling out the threaded holes in the lower bracket to pass the M14 bolts. Cutting off the lower caliper stud. Removing about 2mm of material above the upper hole for clearance. Remove...

Recently installed the Essex AP Racing brake kits on my 21 M1 along with Wilwood MC4 e-brake components. For the front, I ordered the CP9668 kit and the CP9450 kit for the rear with nickel finish. Essex shipping was very fast and the kits have great documentation. Ordered DS3.12 pads for the...

This split die works great for fixing the damaged end threads on the rear hard brake line fitting. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H23FBO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Two track seasons so far, these belts work great. We also use the foam neck helmet supports that really reduce neck strain.

I just added SS brake lines, the rear hard line fittings had damaged thread for the first couple of threads on both sides after disassembly. This split die worked great for redressing the threads on the fittings. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H23FBO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Just went through this exercise. If you remove the underbody plastic panel, you can access the fill plug easily with 3/8 long extension with a universal joint on the end. The clip on the lower fitting is easy to remove using two picks with bends in them, use one pick to pull on one of the ends...

You got me thinking, so I dropped the splash shield and took a few pictures. I don’t see the heat exchanger or any coolant lines in the area.

I don’t have pic handy, but there is no engine oil-coolant heat exchanger.

This illustration is for the GT350 but the M1 has a similar filter adapter, cooler line and cooler. Here’s a pic of the cooler…..

Oh, I also took out the fog light plates and ducted the drivers side of the grill to the air intake.

I agree 100%, depending on the track, ambient temps, any engine HP improvement, and how hard you push, the motor can get hot. This last season I sealed off the leak paths around the radiator, lowered the belly pan 1/4 inch in the back to maybe let some more air out of the engine compartment...

Keep in mind the M1 has the oil cooling parts from the GT350 and is different from the GT.

This was a morning session in May, about 80degF, CHT on the overlay. Later on in a session, the temp will climb a bit as well with ambient, but it seems that if the CHT recovers quicker, the ECU is less likely to pull RPM.