Search results

WHEN you get a power adder, get a real tire if you are actually worried about traction(hoosier, m&h, M/T). wider will not instantly equal more traction, you need a better compound tire. throw a real drag radial on those foundry's and see how she hooks at any power level

youre talking 2.2 hp/ci. n/a. thats a relatively stout build, you are talking massive compression, a great builder with extensive knowledge on these motors, and deep deeep pockets. go ahead and read on about hp/ci http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=639098&highlight=hp+per+ci+2...

i have 3.55s on an whipple car and drive my buddies centuri car with 4.10s often. both cars are similarly powered(800+rwhp). i drove his car with 3.55 and 3.73 as well. its all preference, but a big part is driver ability/suspension/tire choice. i like my 3.55s but id prefer 3.73s in my whipple...

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1143865&postcount=164

with proper maintenance, after allowing your car to warm up to proper temps, and with proper driving, you should be able to run these motors hard and they wont even blink. stock parts with stock power handle abuse pretty well. i couldnt drive a performance car happily without stretching its legs...

i have corsa sport mufflers with a custom double x pipe and its never once been an issue, both my girl and i drive the car daily, and i make a lot of noise lol. however i should mention, im a deputy (plates on that car are not blocked) and to be honest nobody in my county will pull you over for...

real mandrel (top) vs what most shops call mandrel bent https://i.ytimg.com/vi/G9z2pAmk3XI/maxresdefault.jpg and im not upset, just sick of the general smug and arrogant attitude from people on this forum that have no fucking clue how to turn a wrench, but know it all because they read it...

you will not notice any difference. just pick what you think sounds best. ask this question here and youll get 100000 different answers, all based on opinion, seat of the pants dynos, and personal preference. ask this question over on YB and youll get a real answer...

it depends on where they cut and install the h pipe, so there can be bends. but thank you for quoting me to try and call me out, while literally furthering my point suggesting on getting a pre fabricated pipe. this forums amazes me

be careful of most muffler shops... they will use "mandrel bends" but they are pinched and dont keep a true same size diameter when they make a custom exhaust. im extremely anal about my exhaust so i either make my own, or buy pre-fabbed and call it a day.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21189

use this: http://www.willtheyfit.com/#isPage=1 and look at these: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21189&highlight=aggressive http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40082&highlight=aggressive http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42141&highlight=aggressive

what tire and camber? please go read the aggressive fitment thread... i know you are trying to figure this out but its literally been posted thousands of times.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21595&highlight=head+rest

check out dynomax super turbos. very quiet and you wont notice any performance loss.

10.5 et 22 is gonna be a problem. you could run 10.5 et35-45 with 285s. there are dozens of threads on this, including mine. i have 20x10.5 et 30 and 285s on sportlines rub in the rear. 22 would be a nightmare without a ton of camber start reading here...

no CEL, no warning lights. just the advance trac and trac control is illuminated, just like if you pushed the buttons.

i pulled my fuse last time i was at the track and left it off since. i HATE any sort of traction/stability/sissy control. my 800+rwhp cobra has it permanently turned off, and my single digit 67 never had the crap. if you trust your driving, remove it. if you cant drive, then please leave it on...

found them. they are 18x10 et45. from what i have seen, +40 maybe +43 is as high as you can go in the front. so...in theory, those with a 5mm slip spacer should work up front, the rear will be fine.

absolute worst case, add .5* camber and youll be fine.