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If you’re feeling extra cheap just clean and grease everything and slap it together. Might have something sticking because of corrosion or other contamination.

I believe it, granted they were running on the good old school dinosaur 10-40 that felt like syrup. LOL. Hot metal chains and plastic guides need some sort of lube though, especially at 7k RPM, where does it get it on the Coyote?

I’d be more worried about the 400,000 timing chain links that are left dry for a little while. Now that I’m thinking about this - does anyone know if they get any splash lube from the bottom end at all?

Looks good to me. I think I witnessed marked mine as well. I’ll take a look this weekend.

That makes sense to me. Truthfully in all my vehicles I’ve stuck to spec/around spec but have really stressed frequent changes. It’s my personal non professional opinion that higher frequency oil changes matter more than slightly different oil grades. I do mine every 3k/6 months because I can...

That’s a trip! Does the lake speed chart take into account the Aluminum construction? To throw another loop into it, as oil gets hot doesn’t it thin AND stick to surfaces better? Edit: last sentence is wrong, oil surface tension goes down when oil’s hot. I swear I read that before previously...

That’s my mindset for switching. If thicker = heavier duty then I’m okay losing the little MPG for perceived protection.

There’s a reason somewhere, we just don’t know. In mild climates and reasonable driving 10 viscosity points isn’t breaking anything. Though I’ve be running 5-20 on a tuned GTI rated for 5-40 the last few years and I’ve destroyed a timing chain tensioner LOL.

To close the permanent viscosity conversation, couldn’t assembly blueprints for the coyote (rod/main bearing clearances) be read? Isn’t it primarily those two clearances that dictate the maximum appropriate viscosity? Just some food for thought, I swear I’ve read and seen charts that detail...

I’ll take your word for it! I’ll scrap my washer next when the time comes.

Do a couple clutch dumps!!!

There’s no argument, I’ve just got a piece missing and enjoy shifting a stick

autos are faster but people don’t peak inside of cabins at car shows looking for PRNDL LOL

The base GT raised “lip” spoiler might be up your alleyway. It will fill the holes and have a much less obvious presence!

Someone should step in and tell me I’m wrong (if I am), I believe the GT350/GT500 and a number of other options match the factory mounting points. You’ve got options.

Ignore me if this is incorrect, some pulleys (tensioners/idlers) are smooth and ride on the smooth side of the belt. Is that what you’re seeing here? The belt would probably chew itself up if it was mounted incorrectly.

Re: stripes I vote for how it’s ordered if you’ll ever chase resale and are painting it on. If not blue/white, white/blue is really the way to go for a Shelby!

those are dirt cheap labor rates! I charge that out of my garage as a shade tree scumbag, you’re doing alright in my book!

Yes, same same

My other car is a 6spd Turbo 4 with no grunt at idle so I tend to rev the 5.0 to ~1000rpm to get rolling and hill start let’s go immediately.