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Also changes the flow pattern through the lid. The car is tuned to have that in place and a buddy of mine's A10 shifted oddly over time after it was removed. Replacing it fixed the issue. I would do some logs before/after and see how it works for you (MAF scaling over rpm/etc and trims)

From another site post, sums it up nicely: " It reduces the resonance frequency through the induction tube reducing a natural rushing roar on road cars. It provides a small reservoir of air to be used at immediate throttle response until above atmospheric pressure is increased in the...

The 18 airbox swap would make a ton of sense for sure, just all the others I dont really understand why.

Not sure why folks mess with these intakes much. Several guys running mid to high 10's on stock 18+ airboxes, even stock filter. I prefer a nice clean MAF signal with no heat soak and the stock box makes plenty of clean power. Removing the OEM charcoal filter in the OEM lid messes up the MAF...

Send me your CSV files and I will take a look. Negative knock is good, that means the car is adding timing. Positive is not good.

Just the tip(s), just for a minute, to see how it feels.

No prob. Just ignore the trims if they are less than 10%. The OEM tune and codes dont show until you hit 15-20% off anywho. It all varies with temperature, altitude/pressure, humidity, etc. Your logs look good, have fun with it!

Use Dynamat at about 25-30% coverage of the metal to get rid of vibrations. Drone (deep frequencies) will require some MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl), preferably closed cell to avoid water intrusion/mold to take some of the drone stuff away. Or, easier and lighter, get a Vibrant resonator set welded...

Lambda is commanded targets while the AFRs are measured from the O2's. If your AFRs are good and trims combined are less than 10% per bank, you should be fine. Ignore the E85 comment, had a brain fart lol. The AFR multiplied by the stoich of the fuel you are using shows your actual AFR. That...

Had a look at your logs. Here's what I saw: Net fuel trims at WOT are within 4-7% which is fine (combined STFT and LTFT). AFR's are in the 11.9's-12.0's which is fine on E85 which I can see you are running. Overall at WOT, timing builds slowly towards a peak of 31.3, knock is stepwise more...

It has a catback exhaust, forget which, but its loud as hell. Basically the longtubes and a loud exhaust, no OEM pipes. Most of the power is coming from the E85, the longtubes added about 17whp and 20wtq.

Pull a datalog and look at your lambse and AFRs, then sum your LTFT1 and STFT1 adjustments to see what the car is doing to achieve the AFRs you are at. If the LTFT's are > +10% (11% or higher) or <-10% (aka -11% or lower), your tuner should be able to adjust the fueling so the car doesnt have to...

Notice any difference with the unsprung weight reduction in ride or acceleration?

15+ drivers manifold is welded to cat, so if you swap, you can unbolt or bolt cats up. Question is, everything else bolt up once you remove the welded cat issue (using 2014 style manifold).

I know about the MAK cat deletes and all for the 18+'s but has anyone swapped a 2011-14 manifold on the driver's side and then used 2011-14 style cat delete systems that bolt up with no welding/etc? There are a ton of cheap options for the bolt on cat deletes for those years, just not sure of...

@LETHAL can you post the dyno graphs in overlay for these in SAE with reasonable smoothing? Just want to look at gains under the curve outside the peak for each set of changes. :) Also, is that longtube setup with the OEM catback and high flow cats or offroad?

Weird to see a loss of almost 20wtq with the PMAS and no other changes and the topend gains seem very inflated. I'm assuming the hood was up for the PMAS runs?

Either way, the "gains" are due to the airflow being so open with the hood up and they are gone mostly if not all once the hood is back down. We tested it multiple times and its very repeatable. Thats why you see most of the non-3rd party dynos for intake "gains" with the hoods up.

The "gain" most folks see on the dyno is from having the hood up during the dyno run. On an open element filter, the car will show 8-10 more rwhp at times with the hood up. However, these are false gains as the hood isnt up during daily driving and heat soak is much more pronounced. The hood...

Definitely grab some Vibrant flex sections. Will make install easier and less chance of cracking at the welds from stress.