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My previous car was (still have it) a RX8, that car has very low torque at low rpm and everything goes up (both torque and hp) as higher you could go with the rpm. The optimal shift point for mine was (extended limiter) at 10200 rpm.. it would be better even go beyond that (if you don't care...

Thanks a lot, this explain it much everything and reassures me that I'm not experience anything "wrong". At the first service will ask them to check anyway, but will save me to just go there asking for additional check.

Do you mean I should experience no slow down going up to the limiter after 6200rpm (or so), like I have no problems going up to 6200? If that's true the optimal shifting point (best acceleration performance) up to 4th gear would be always to shift to the next gear right before the rpm limiter...

I know, but looking at the videos online I believed that the stock max hp and torque in 3th and 4th were delivered well beyond 6200... (around 7k), that's why I'm confused to see it going down so early, but if that's true for every Bullitt out there, then I'm OK (hence this post). :)

Shouldn't I notice it at different rpms, not something that kicks in at that exact range (the car is perfect under that range). Also a slipping clutch shouldn't affect the traction? But the rpm should go up, even faster (unless the electronic sense the slippage by limiting the engine... as I...

Good question, I think I tried only full throttle (starting from different gears)... you thinking at the clutch protection?

As per title, now that I'm driving it by some days (and have collected already thousand kms!), today I'm starting to experience something that doesn't feel "normal". I don't remember if I've pushed it before, so I can't say if it's happening right now (or if it is the normality), I've tried to...

DHG - K2804

Soz if I answer for him.. that's the BULITT emblem from the 2001 Mustang trunk, there's even a OEM part from Ford.. although pretty expensive (if compared with Chinese clones). It's adhesive and in plastic (brush metal chromed). Example...

Eheh.. there isn't much to know I think, it's the blank panel (FP or similar) with adhesive chrome letters on it (you can buy of different styles). It's a good idea, very clean and effective.

Seems the coolest one.

They are also sold on the Ford website (at least here) and Ford branded, it's not just from third parties.

Have them to check the tank breather (or whenever you call it in english) tube, it can affect the refueling (the pump will stop believing the tank is full) and eventually the fuel sensor.

KK, I believed it was a more important modification. However isn't a little strange that Ford want you (the dealer) to make a hole in battery cover for an original optional? Or the struts aren't designed for the Bullitt?

Ye, I didn't feel anything "odd" going at those speeds (it must be because I were used to drive a much lighter car before...). What I can't cope yet is the incredible push before reaching the 4th gear, it literally takes off my foot from the clutch pedal and my shift sucks (after have drove...

And to add more bits.. i'm interested to add it, not just because of usability, look etc... but also because last time I opened my bonnet and tried to use the rod, I got burned! The thing is f* hot!

So redline.. steeda.. FP... etc. all require the modification of the battery box? I don't want to modify anything! :( ...and it looks strange to me that a official optional (FP) ask you to "cut" a piece. Hum

So there's no official optional for our Mustang that actually works good without modifications? I believed that the ones from Ford Performance were OK?

Lol.. I have the green stitching around (not the physical dash dials). So Ford basically built random combos, even in the same continent... didn't it costed more to them to split the production in X versions?

You don't have this in the UK? I believed they were standard in EU/UK: No blind spot monitoring, No cross traffic alert, No oil pressure gauges, (instrument screen) (mine has it)