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Agreed if they're above minimum. The shop will know, just in my experience 1mm is about the limit for wear and the pics look like over 1mm. I do ALOT of machining and that lip looks over 1mm but it is just a pic. But it LOOKS close enough to where I personally would have just gotten new...

Not in any practical manner, new pads or risk the new rotors. Its cheap is the grand scheme.

Not the groves but look at the lip at the edge of the rotors. It LOOKS to be well over 1mm on just that side. if the lip really is .35mm shallow then just keep running what you have, I wouldn't even bother surfacing them at this point but when you get new rotors get new pads as well

Your old pads will wear groves into the new rotors so yes new pads also. I am not going off track car specs I am going off passenger car norms for brake component life and wear which is why I think its time to change. You're within a few thousand, miles of the upper limit for regular cars and...

That lip is more the concern. Looks very close (actually over) the wear limit for most modern rotors let alone cross drilled ones that are more prone to cracking. Must be the picture because that looks much larger than a .35mm lip. Also if it was grooved when you replaced the pads they should...

Change them, how deep is the lip on the edge of that rotor?

Negative values can be normal at idle/low rpm depending on the setup. It just means the supercharger is not spinning fast enough to provide positive pressure vs what the engine is sucking in. It should not show negative all the time though or when youre on throttle

This almost happened to me, I stuck the drain plug back in before it spilled over though. I drilled out the holes afterwards.

sounds right to me as the p1x is around 700 to the wheels

Not ford but my buddy tried to have gm buyback his corvette and it took over a year to reach an arrangement, part of that was gm covering the lawyers fees.

Theyre props from his show, " last man standing." Tim has a felony from his youth. Always enjoyed his work, seeing the hotrods from home improvement brought back some memories.

If you're worried about it Teflon sealant is what you want. Just don't glob it on there, a small dab is all you need. But I have never used sealant on any drain plug, just a new crush washer torqued to spec

Weird considering the instructions show installing the injectors but not the booster. Which relief valve did you go with?

Doing a little homework on the procharger stage II kit with the p1x. My goal is 700 whp using 91 gas, so thats probably around 800hp at the crank. The kit comes with injectors but not any pump upgrades or mods to boost pressure. Should the pumps be upgraded or augmented at this power level...

The battery log on my car shows it drops about 10% in a week and usually these things are not linear so the longer its not charging the faster it declines.

The bigger screw is what came with mine. The dealer did not mount the rear plate, not even the dealers paper plate so it all came packaged in a bag. I'm glad I got mine from a place that seemed to specialize in svt cars. It was a coincidence/chance I bought from this dealer but I'm glad it...

Cause stance is life?

Never looked into this suspension part but after reading your description of how those companies build this amazed they are designed this way. I think someone just applied the rules for making that part in compression/tension and applied it to a part that has to take a moment instead. Same type...

Most people who pull that argument about r&d never worked as an engineer or in production. It's all made/designed to a spec/price point and that desired result from the company is not usually reliability first.

how do you like it with the sound enhancement disabled?