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Started off the day with planning on meeting with a local mustang group, had a slight break in the weather so I took the car. Enjoyable time, good peeps, looking forward to upcoming events. Afterwards, wife and daughter wanted to get their nails done but needed cash, so I ran over to another...

Thx for the heads up but the Christmas season wiped out my fun money for a while. If you have it still in a few months, I'm sure I'll be interested then. Glws.

Locally here, private shops are from 150-200 and dealerships start at 200.

I'm not a mechanic, but it's the inner washer/ring of the hub. I believe it actually separated from the bearing and the new hub didn't have it as a separate part. Cause of failure? If I had to guess, wheel hop. I had a pretty significant episode of wheel hop when trying to take off from a dig...

Identified the cause of my abs light/trac control/no drive mode fault. New hub in and working well, so far. Didn't come with a new axel nut so I need to order a new one, but that's a simple process to swap out.

And plenty of examples as well of buying a modified car at a less expensive price than purchasing all the modifications separately. My experience being one of them. However, with this being OP's only form of transportation, ain't no way I would look at buying anything other than stock + warranty.

In that case, I hope your resolution is quick and simple. With your metallic noise, I half way doubt that your ABS is compliant with my well wishes. Regardless, hope it's just hub.

Welcome to the group. I've had the mustang itch for about 10 years now, finally got to the point a few years ago that I could start looking at them seriously. The coyote was mandatory. The IRS was also. Sync3 desirable and the front end of the 15-17 MY. Even with all the praise of the 10R80...

Same issue, different symptoms. No metallic sound or anything like that. Power steering was intermittent and, ultimately ended up going out. No power steering, ABS, trac control or driver modes available. Went the simple route and jacked up back end to see if I could feel any slop/play in the...

My order has shipped! While the part isn't exactly exciting, having the car down for a few weeks definitely wasn't exciting. Thanks Benny @LevittownFordParts for the quick service and getting the part out when you could. Why Ford decided they should have three different steering boxes for...

Backtracking just a quick moment, is IAT2 utilized as part of the logic for tuning a vehicle? Obviously it affects many things but without the ability to read that temp (which many of us are concerned about, rightfully so), the primary focus should be CHT. Where is that read? Which cylinder?

I thought coolant temp was inferred, based off of CHT, amongst other things.

Potential stupid question. IAT2 is important to us to understand the effectiveness of the intercooler/heat exchanger for the PD guys, which has an obvious effect on HP. However, IAT2's are only read by adding the additional sensor (in my case, the VMP). So, units without the ability to read...

I can't accurately describe how much I appreciate this post. But to be a devils advocate, I'd like to acknowledge that the last rock chip I received was from @fmc_smt in his lowered 2015. Sometimes sticky tires grip, sometimes they spit.

PM sent a couple of days ago, FYI.

PM sent

23 or the optional 26 spline?

Appreciate the response so far! You always wonder how legit something is, so it's nice to hear first hand experiences.

Car is a 2017 with a Whipple gen 4. Running pump gas and not track/strip car, still with the basic pulley on it, so around 10# of boost. Goal: Have the car with the same pep at the end of the day as it did at the beginning by being "safe". Primary safety concern is the #8 piston, for obvious...

Had a similar situation. Provide your VIN and the S/N of the nguage to Lund via email and they should let you know the parameters of the tune.