Me?
Here's a link to a 1:55.3 from the same day. Video and data is a little out of sync - still learning to use Race Render.
I have no idea to make the video or pictures smaller...
I will look at this too. I have this same question posted on TMO as well and one of the members suggested hand over hand inspecting the entire engine harness.
I know where it's at. I just wasn't sure it is was something that would be obviously lose when I got in there. Either way, at that point it's easy to put a wrench on it and see.
DCT scan? I used Forscan and it polled all of the modules and didn't show any errors.
At this point the car is...
Indeed it is. I live 15 minutes from the track.
Thank you. Any idea how loose it gets? If I lift the car up tomorrow will I be able to reach in and feel whether or not it's loose by hand?
Over the last two track days (Saturday and this afternoon) my car has started cutting out. It's fine on the out lap and the first two or three hot laps but then gradually starts cutting out and I end up parking it about half way through the session. By the end of today I made it two and a half...
Had a track day Saturday with a new set of 305/30-19 Supercar 3's and 19x11 Apex SM-10s. It was my first time running a tire other than Pilot Super Sports. I had a previous best of 1:57.6 at The Ridge Motorsports Park and ended up with a 1:55.2 before having to go home early for drive mode...
If you're money ahead and you want a GT350 then go for it. But if you're not you'd be better off waiting until you are and/or finding a good used GT350.
Keep in mind though that a five year, $60,000 loan plus tax, title & license is more than $1,000 a month.
"IF" the dealer gives you more for trade in than the balance of your loan then the loan will be paid off and the difference can go toward the trade. More likely, when they give you less for your trade than you owe on the loan then the balance of the loan would be applied to the new loan and you...
None of this is necessary. If it turns out to be the sender - yes it should be better secured at the time of engine assembly, but it isn't. It's a 30 minute fix and OP caught a problem before it turned into something worse. If OP is at all mechanically inclined it can be fixed in his driveway...
+1
And if he's noted puddles on more than one occasion then something is actively causing it. The oil pressure sensor is a known issue and needs to be verified. In my case the only thing that kept it from falling out competely was the wiring harness and connector preventing it from spinning any...
Try
DG9Z-8321-A
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-lower-seat-dg9z8321a?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3RydXRzLWFuZC1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9Mzcmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1mb3JkJm89bXVzdGFuZyZ5PTIwMTcmdD1ndCZlPTUtMGwtdjgtZ2Fz
But to be honest, I'm not sure there's anything wrong...
+1 on the oil pressure sensor. Take the intake tube and air box out and you'll be able to get a good look at it.
I had this problem and a bit of Permatex Seal & Lock on the threads took care of it.
If you elect for a repaint then be very careful where your dealer sends the car for paint. I took my first GT350 in for a warranty paint repair on the passenger door and I got it back with the paint entire right rear quarter of the car completely trashed. Heavy scratches in the base coat and...
I got away with doing three track days with speeds approaching 140 mph before I learned the splitter was incorrectly installed on my car. This is precisely why I do my own work, even if I could save money by making a warranty claim. It would have to be a pretty significant failure for me to take...