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Remove the nut from the arm. After the nut is removed pull the wiper arm up away from the windshield to remove the spring tension(like you would do to clean your windshield). Then grab the arm by the base and wiggle side to side while pulling up and it will come off. You do not need a puller...

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That depression is due to it being two layers of metal. It was like that prior to making the runs. When installing them we were aware of this so we left the bolts as loose as we could, but the hood is really thin aluminum so it deforms really easily. We are currently making some little...

Yes. The only items we changed in the engine were the oil pump gears and the timing chain gear. This is something we do to all 5.0/5.2s when going forced induction rather it be supercharged or turbocharged. I know some will argue that the engine is no longer "stock" with these changes but I...

My first car was a 85 GLH Turbo! My dream car at the time was the GLHS Shelby omni of course! I used to terrorize the south side of Indy in my omni lol. In the late 90's a mid 12 second car would beat most of the cars running around then....including a lot of fox bodies!

Its hard to tell in the picture, but I think your dents are a little higher than the spot welding dimples I'm talking about. I can't imagine how that lifting the car on the pinch welds would cause that though. That is the proper way to lift the car. There is little arrows showing where to...

Here is a pic of one of those thermostat controllers as they come

Yes. That would be doing the entire harness though which includes wiring from the thermostat control unit, temperature probe, 30 amp relay, fuse, and wiring to pump. The entire harness will be loomed, heat shrinked and all connections I use delphi weathpack style male/female connections. No...

Every 2015 up car we have had in here has all those little "dents" all the way down the bottom rocker panel from the front to back about every 2 inches. That is where they are pinch welded together and ford didn't spend a lot of time body filling those spots. I think you are just now noticing it.

The spot we choose for Tony's temp sensor is on the opposite side of the case as the factory one, but similar placement. It is close to the drain hole which is the location that the pump draws the hot fluid out of. I used an 02 sensor plug and drilled it out to fit the temp probe. The hole in...

The only good spot on the GT350 is behind the passenger side wheel well liner. This is basically under the battery. If you had an auto GT car there is another spot on the drivers side where the clutch slave is normally mounted on stick cars.

While pulling Tony's coil packs off of his engine in preparation to remove the front cover I noticed that several of the coils were rather hard to unseat. Once I got them all out 6 of the 8 were put in with the seal boot all bunched up. There is a seal that seats around the valve cover and...

Yes, we can ship to Canada. The only drilling and tapping is for the temp sensor into the transmission housing. The cooler, pump bracket and line bracket all use existing mounting points. This does keep the factory washer reservoir. The cooler that we use is even a little larger than what...

That was just for the transmission cooler. The rear diff cooler comes in a little over 3,000 installed with a standalone thermostat controller like the transmission. After going over the materials and labor, I think we can get a kit together that you can install yourself for around...

Yes it is an expensive endeavor unfortunately. It takes right at 22-24 hours to one off custom make everything and that is where a lot of the expense is. The only way we could get this cost down is to do a production run of 10 kits or so. I'm not sure if we could get enough interest to do a...

Or you can ditch the factory cooler and go with a larger aftermarket cooler that has an lines on it. Your shop would have to make custom mounts though. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69740

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70771

That does not surprise me. The setup we did on Tony's car ended up running around $3200. That was with me eating about half the labor I actually had in it too. When you look at that cost versus what you can purchase a factory R trans and cooler components it makes it hard to go into...

What pins did you apply power and ground to?

I just verified that while the tech pack and track pack car do have the same connectors in the rear, the wiring is not there in the main chassis harness. Looks like time for another stand alone thermostat controller for the rear diff as well.