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21K miles on my NGK LTR7IX Iridiums... no issues...

Over 20k running the whipple. My car is 100% stock except for the components replaced by the stage 2 whipple - no issues at all. Car runs strong. Tony

It's .82 to keep the cats alive. Tony

That's a double hybrid.. it burns gas, rubber and electricity. Talk about efficient! Should be up for an award!

I drive a prius with a whipple - how can I get in on this action? I only bench race on Wednesdays so no meet ups or other nonsense. Let's keep it purely theoretical and full of sh*t. Have a nice day :P

Spark plug changes on the KB suck...you have to take the intake elbow off on the driver side. Other thing going for the whipple is the tune was done by a Ford Engineer so its as good as OEM. You won't find that quality anywhere else... Tony

I think A will be higher than B simply because of the gearing. Numerically higher gears tends to artificially swing dyno numbers down. Same effect between stiff wall tires or slicks on a dyno...

Find a tuner who can manipulate the cam timing for both intake/exhaust and knows what they're doing. The key to boost and high compression is controlling cylinder pressure levels. The cam timing is how that's done. Tony

Since you have a converter, you'll need more sidewall on the tire. Option 2 will give the most sidewall. I'd go down that road to maximize wheel/tire options for street and track.

870 rwhp, even weighing 4500lbs, should be good for 140mph traps and mid-high 9s. You have more than enough power to achieve your goal. More power will only make driving the car and hooking harder. You need to focus on your driving technique. Making a stick car run 9s will take a lot of...

Waste of money. You'll get crappier gas mileage, car's manners in part-throttle, off-idle scenarios will degrade and the exhaust will stink. You'll spend thousands of dollars and be lucky to gain 20-30hp. I speak from experience! I've been there, wasted my money and time and won't do it again...

Looks like it might be for the F150 5.0 application...

Stinky because I went with aftermarket hi-flow cats. It was actually a bassani hi-flow x pipe if you're curious. This was on a 2003 mach 1 that I had swapped the entire drive train out of an 2003 cobra. The motor was fully built, custom cams, full exhaust, etc with a whipple. It was fast as hell...

Yes, I have a whipple kit with upgraded TB. Intercooler pump is the normal flow and no fans. The intercooler on these cars is big enough that its more than enough to keep IATs under control. In addition, those fans actually impair cooling ability at higher speed since they block flow...

You dont need the fans for the whipple. Waste of money in my opinion... You also don't need any other mods... another waste of money. If you want to go faster and make power, change the pulley and up the octane. It will stay silent and still deliver. Tony

I'm a bit skeptical to believe a person using a pseudo-name self-proclaiming his expertise on oil and oil testing who posts a ton of results along with pages of diatribe and extensive use of ALL CAPS to make a point is someone I'd be looking to for advise. :)

Amsoil 5w20 Signature Series... Motorcraft FL500S filter and I use the oil life monitor to change oil.

Stock 20" rims with 275/40 R20 Nitto 555Rs with 3.15s and an auto. No issues hooking up in 2nd gear on up. 1st gear can be tricky.

It's personal preference. I always pushed the clutch in to let the engine go back to idle and applied the brakes to slow down. Letting the engine brake just creates more vacuum so the engine can suck in more oil through the pcv. Tony

You don't need a lift. An engine hoist, jackstands, thick tie-down straps and some wheel dollies from harbor freight. Basically remove the wheels, front cover, driveshaft, unbolt the k-member, undo any lines connected to the body like electrical, water hoses, etc, drop the k-member on the...