Cannot get my 2018 GT to smog - NORCAL

[matjam]

An O2 sensor just outputs voltage equal to the O2 level. It does not have a not ready state. Even in a case of a bad O2 sensor where a malfunctioning sensor output stops toggling voltage on and off, the PCM detects the missing signal and generates a code. If the car is stuck in an open loop, warm up state and the O2 level in the exhaust doesn't transition from a warm up to running level and the PCM is stuck waiting for an O2 signal, maybe that could be a cause. But I think you would have codes if the car is stuck in open loop. Further, the OBD shows the open/close loop status and no guessing is needed. If it is indeed stuck in open loop, being stuck could be good because you can use that for troubleshooting. Another option is the PCM software is in a not ready state for an unknown reason which I think it the more likely case. The PCM does not have a tune and operating OEM correct? The document you are looking for is here - https://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1802-2018.pdf

... yeah ok so I have plugged several ODB2 tools in and all of them say that the O2 sensor is "not ready". Furthermore, the smog station showed me the printout and it clearly says the O2 sensor is "not ready". So ...

Anyway, I need to appearely become a ford emissions expert in order to smog my 2018 car, lol.

I just did a 120 mile round trip to try and reset the emissions, everything set except for the O2 sensor.

JFC, what a nightmare.

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[matjam]

Whelp, I tried to do as close to the drive cycle as I could, cars whizzing past me at 90mph while I stuck under 50mph, did not set the O2 sensor, everything else went green in OBDLink.

I spent like 3 hours driving the thing around and just cannot get it to set the O2 sensors.

I double checked the gearing was set correctly in the transmission, for the Tremec. So It should be good. So I don't know.

 

[matjam]

So, as I mentioned and I guess I should have stressed, I did do a Tremec swap in this, which included a bowler harness to make the Magnum XL send the correct signals.

So when I said "there's no tune" I should apologize as while I didn't "get it tuned" I did have to use HP tuners to adjust the ratios in the tune to match the gearbox. After I did the swap, I thought it was in the right settings but could never get cruise to work, and from what I can tell online if cruise doesn't work this is a sign that you'll have trouble with getting emissions to pass.

I just went over @Ruiner46 's instructions in his thread again to make sure everything was right and it was not.

I think what happened is the dealer just flashes it with their stock tune and overwrites the gear ratio settings.

Anyway, after going through the settings in the bowler harness and in HP Tuners systematically, the car now engages cruise in any gear which tells me at least part of the ECU is now happy, so maybe the O2 check can run now.

I'm going to let it cool down and then do another full drive cycle tonight when traffic is lower.

Once I figure this out I'll document my settings for any other poor souls.

Thanks for making me go through this systematically. I was ready to give up lol.

 

[Swtbabybilly]

I would drive over 50mph on your next ride, not s550s but cars in the past I was trying to get the monitors to run for ether an inspection or a repair we did sometimes you need to take multiple highway cruises at higher speeds ( not driving like a nut job) like 65 mph I know you have tried other methods and gone out on a few rides but its worth a shot, and just make sure the car fully cools down between rides, best of luck

 

[matjam]

After getting the ratios correct and cruise working, I was able to get the o2 to evaluate

Of course evap won’t lol. But that was ok before so I think I just need to drive it more now.

 

[matjam]

So for EVAP, I am getting conflicting info

1. waiting at least 6 hours between cycles
2. should have about 3/4 tank
3. start car, wait 15 seconds
4. as soon as possible find a highway
5. drive at a constant 65mph in 6th gear for at least 10 minutes
6. engine braking to slow down to about 35mph wait 3 minutes?
7. do again
8. all needs to happen within 30 minutes of starting the car

Anyone got any tips for setting the EVAP monitor?

 

[matjam]

Ok so the forscan lite app was invaluable. When I dug through all the things it could read there was a 0.020 pressure test thing that was the last part of the evap test and when I turned the car on it set and the car is now ready for emissions testing.
Finally! Thanks for the help guys.

 

[2015 Silver GT]

Ok so the forscan lite app was invaluable. When I dug through all the things it could read there was a 0.020 pressure test thing that was the last part of the evap test and when I turned the car on it set and the car is now ready for emissions testing.
Finally! Thanks for the help guys.

What help? You seem to have figured things out yourself. Good for you.

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Maybe that is why my buddy's 11 GT wont pass emissions, he blew up the MT-82 so he also swapped in a T-56 magnum XL. He had the dealer replace the PCM, all 4 O2's and nothing fixed it.

 

[matjam]

Maybe that is why my buddy's 11 GT wont pass emissions, he blew up the MT-82 so he also swapped in a T-56 magnum XL. He had the dealer replace the PCM, all 4 O2's and nothing fixed it.

yeah, if you don't have the ratios set correctly in the tune then I guess the part that runs the O2 checks doesn't like that its getting mixed signals and won't actually run the test.

My main clue was that cruise control wouldn't work - so having it work is a good signal that the emissions will pass.

 

[matjam]

For Posterity; everything I changed is:

• ECM 22520 Gear Shift Hang: Disabled (this might actually work now but it was doing weird shit for me so I turned it off)
• ECM 40000/40001 Trans Gear Ratios vs Gear A/B
  • Reverse: 2.90
  • Neutral: 3.24
  • 1st Gear: 2.97
  • 2nd Gear: 2.10
  • 3rd Gear: 1.43
  • 4th Gear: 1.00
  • 5th Gear: 0.80
  • 6th Gear: 0.63
• ECM 20872 through 20885 Trans Ration Max / Min
  • 20872 1st Gear Max: 3.12
  • 20873 1st Gear Min: 2.82
  • 20874 2nd Gear Max: 2.20
  • 20875 2nd Gear Min: 2:00
  • 20876 3rd Gear Max: 1.48
  • 20877 3rd Gear Min: 1.37
  • 20878 4th Gear Max: 1.03
  • 20879 4th Gear Min: 0.96
  • 20880 5th Gear Max: 0.82
  • 20881 5th Gear Min: 0.78
  • 20882 6th Gear Max: 0.65
  • 20883 6th Gear Min: 0.61
  • 20884 Reverse Max: 3.00
  • 20885 Reverse min: 2.80
• ECM 5001 VSS Pulses Per Rev: 36.0000
• ECM 3171 Tire Circumference Switch: Calibration
• ECM 9054 Driven Tire Circumference: 2047
• ECM 843 Max Tire Circ: 2083
• ECM 844 Min Tire Cic: 2012
• ECM 2849 Axle Ratio Switch: Calibration
• ECM 9050 Final Drive Ratio: 3.73
• ECM 845: Axle Ratio Max: 3.80
• ECM 846: Axle Ratio Min: 3.65

This is for a 2018 Mustang GT PP1. This car came with a 3.73 final drive; for other cars you'd need to recalculate all of the above. I don't really understand how thats done - @Ruiner46 did it for me But I think its not that hard.

The tire circumference is for the stock tires I use which are 275/40R19. If you use a different circumference then you'd need to adjust.

I used HP Tuners to do this, have the dongle for it and the software. I have not found anything else that has all the access that HP Tuners has, but maybe you can use something else. If you make these changes and then take the car to a dealer, its likely they will wipe these settings.

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Thanks for the info, but my buddy's is an 11, which is a S197 so most stuff will not translate.

 

[RTR077]

This is very interesting and also over my head, lol.

Luckily for me my 'not ready status' could be waived in NC after proving I drove it. I have been doing that now for 3 years.

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