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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

delz05

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Aluminum and steel don't play well with each other. You'll get galvanic corrosion.
You can reduce the odds of that happening by using powder coat finish with a rubber tape between the two metal surfaces. Dynamat type works well as an insulating barrier or a thick 3M double-sided tape.
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Craig Brown

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I took my 2015 GT for a test drive today after installing a Calimer stage 2 transmission with a Mcleod RXT twin disc ceramic clutch with an aluminum flywheel. It was great to have the drive train 100 percent again.
 

lacanteen

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New aftermarket wheels after having replaced 2 original wheels with used ones, I just couldn’t trust them anymore for a long road trip. The car will be 4 years old this August and just turned 90K miles. Bought the tires in March, Uniroyal Power Paw 255, 40 ZR19.

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Hoofer

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Figured out my bolt issue. I used one of the Steeda supplied bolts and that is the one that is stuck. I’ve pretty much rounded off the head so I’m going to have to drill it out at this point. The Ford factory bolts are actually fine. So, anyone that gets the Steeda rails, use the Ford bolts that are in those mounting holes. The Steeda bolts are junk
If I’m in the minority, so be it. I can only share what I am experiencing. The same thing is happening to the bolts on my IRS braces.

I’m not trying to come across as a total hater either, so apologies if it comes off that way. The braces and rails themselves function very well and I have been very happy with the functionality side of it. The amount of rust (and now the rusted bolt) is what’s disappointing. And yes, I know our winters are harsh on anything steel. Maybe make a stainless offering for the rails for those of us in rusty areas (I’m sure others would buy them as well)?
^Spot on, good work!

I also reused the OEM bolts for the front, and purchased longer stainless steel bolts for the rear. All this even though I do not operate my Mustang in the winter.

There is a reason why Ford Engineers callout cadmium coating instead of zinc-chromate on critical component under carriage fasteners.

Anyone in doubt? Crawl underneath and see for yourself.

The chemicals applied to roads today via brine solution or direct, is magnitudes more severe on metal corrosion than it was +15 years ago.

Local to me, rock salt, salt brine, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, and sodium chloride are used on the roads depending upon the current/forecast weather conditions.
 

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Cobra Jet

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New aftermarket wheels after having replaced 2 original wheels with used ones, I just couldn’t trust them anymore for a long road trip. The car will be 4 years old this August and just turned 90K miles. Bought the tires in March, Uniroyal Power Paw 255, 40 ZR19.

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That’s an interesting rim design. If you don’t mind the ask, what is the type/brand?

I know you out the tire size in your post but are you running on a square set front and rear or do you have a staggered front and rear setup?
 

GT_MTL

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Finally installed the BMR Jacking rails that were sitting in my garage for too long ... Easy job, just needed to tap the M10 holes which didn't have any bolt in it as they were completely rusted.

Next step is BMR Cradle bushing lockout kit !
 

HoosierDaddy

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Finally installed the BMR Jacking rails that were sitting in my garage for too long ... Easy job, just needed to tap the M10 holes which didn't have any bolt in it as they were completely rusted.

Next step is BMR Cradle bushing lockout kit !
Good choices.
 

WolfMxbee

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I just received my heel toe spacer for the accelerator pedal from LCF Performance and gonna install it today, I'll keep you guys updated on how it feels :like:
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lacanteen

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That’s an interesting rim design. If you don’t mind the ask, what is the type/brand?

I know you out the tire size in your post but are you running on a square set front and rear or do you have a staggered front and rear setup?
The brand is Fondmetal ordered out of California by a local chain called Street King Custom Wheels & Tires. $1900 OTD. The setup is the same as the factory did as 19 X 8.5 square. They look much better in person than in the photo.
 

5doorsoffury

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Cleaned and shined up the car's squirted the slippery stuff all over the trim and went to the range day.
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I flashed the E85 tune on my way to the range day and what do you know on my way back I get a low oil pressure light I shit my pants then pull over. I wiped my pants with a rag and the last clean spot on the rag I used to check oil I have plenty I feel better at this point. Through m i l po521 and after checking with the mechanical gauge 100 PSI settled to 20 at hot idle.
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Put a new one in and to spite the sensor I put the 82 mm pulley on. Then after all that I find a collapsed hose not looking forward to the bill for the fittings on the 19 mil hose they use I love how it's a little off could be worse this could be and fittings I'd have to get a mortgage to do intercooler lines in an
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HKusp

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Installed my LCF Performance 5/8 heel toe pedal spacer, honestly small part but huge difference!
Before :
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After :
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Side by side Before - top picture, after - bottom picture
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Pardon me for my ignorance as I am a street guy, and haven't played around on any tracks with turns, although I love driving the curvy roads, but that spacer brings the brake pedal lower so that it's more flush with the accelerator pedal, or...????
 

HoosierDaddy

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Pardon me for my ignorance as I am a street guy, and haven't played around on any tracks with turns, although I love driving the curvy roads, but that spacer brings the brake pedal lower so that it's more flush with the accelerator pedal, or...????
Or move the throttle pedal. Picture looks more like that to me.
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