I drilled the bar on the car. Wasn’t hard. Just started with a 1/8 bit and went up from there. On one side I finished the job with a dremel cuz the steel was too hard.
That had been my complaint with my car since day 1 and it’s never gone away. I now think the best solution is to slow down “too much” on corner entry and then mash the gas to get rotated on corner exit... if that makes any sense. The animal tactics in the video below produce better times for me than any other approach.
Miata club? On some level the Mustang is never going to do courses like that well. It's just too big.
That was the last NER SCCA course. Cone hit count was very high.
What camera are you using and what is it's "field of view" spec? For example 90 deg, 130 deg, 170 degree? Most GoPro type cameras have about a 170 degree "wide angle" lens which to me makes courses look more open/faster than they are and than a narrower view such as my Race Technology Video4 90 degree shows.
Do you remove it between the runs or between run days ? I read the discussion about using multi-tools to do it, never really worried about it as that would be least of my worries but running a 5th heat in Peru last month I got a ton of it....
Removing OPR between runs on our car is really difficult with just one person to do the work. Most people who do so have either a codriver or some other helper(s) and jack the car or even remove wheels and use a battery powered mulitools with lots of spare batteries or 120 vac tools with an inverter or generator. I have some "cutoff" and slightly dulled putty knives which I used to get the really big globs off my front tires . . . sort of. The best thing you can do each day is run a tight line and stay out of the OPR marbles. Lincoln is worse due to the seam sealer they use and, of course, the huge number of drivers using all sorts of tires. Between days you can use the "tire cleaning skid pad" but it works best if you or the worker/fee collector wets the pavement . . . which of course will make your car dirty if the Lincoln weather hasn't already done so. Previously the OPR skid pad was on really bad pavement. I don't know where it is this year. I still have some OPR on my last year's Nats RE-71R's which drove from Lincoln to Cheyenne, WY before taking us home to Raleigh, NC (they haven't been used since). Of course if it rains OPR is the least of your issues but will remove OPR if you run in the rain. Note that the practice course probably will have OPR.
GoPro hero 5. Narrow field of view setting, no image stabilization, foam wind sock from Amazon.com over it to improve audio.What camera are you using and what is it's "field of view" spec? For example 90 deg, 130 deg, 170 degree? Most GoPro type cameras have about a 170 degree "wide angle" lens which to me makes courses look more open/faster than they are and than a narrower view such as my Race Technology Video4 90 degree shows.
I prefer the more accurate view of your camera (and mine) but it might make the course look even worse than it was to people who are used to the "GoPro" view. Keep in mind that you never had to change hand position on the steering wheel where a really tight course would require more steering lock.
Good luck in Lincoln!!!! Be prepared to deal with OPR as best you can, especially with two drivers.
You are welcome. The primary need for luck in a Mustang is for dry runs or, if you have really good rain tires, maybe full wet runs.
You are welcome!
I actually did think of you since I believe you were the first one of the crowd using front bar and stating it works - so thank you, I wish I was less timid was making setup changes.You are welcome!
Anyway, I'm glad that I'm not the only one who found the front bar setup to be just easier to drive fast and easier to be consistent with. It really fixed a lot of the problems I had with the car's twitchyness. I really don't know how people drive the rear bar setup as fast as they do... I found it nearly uncontrollable with no way to use the power the car has.
On my 18 I ran the Whiteline bar for over 15K miles and MANY autocross runs last year and early this year and the teflon lined bushings are still "like new".You are welcome!
As one of the original purchasers of the BMR front bar, I found a huge problem in the bushing they used very early on. My car was destroying the grease zerk bushings at the grease zerk hole in the bushing. The problem was a combination of bar forces (partly bar spring rate, partly how much roll the stock spring + big front bar setup has), bushing material and the zerk fitting hole. Thankfully Kelly is a boss and rectified the issue. Not only with me, but on the design. I think they tested two different poly materials before just removing the zerk fitting entirely. He even designed a set of Delrin bushings that I was going to buy and test but never got around to doing so.
Anyway, I'm glad that I'm not the only one who found the front bar setup to be just easier to drive fast and easier to be consistent with. It really fixed a lot of the problems I had with the car's twitchyness. I really don't know how people drive the rear bar setup as fast as they do... I found it nearly uncontrollable with no way to use the power the car has.