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Am I dumb for passing on this deal

DavidHuff

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At this moment you can find a new 2018 base, manual for a hair under 30k that is almost the price of the the 2015/17 base.

Premium 401 w/ manual you can find for about 35k, that Imo is a great price.

once the 2019 starting hit the dealers its going to be even better.

Nothing wrong with the car, those prices always drop later.
What Ford Dealer are you finding a 2018 Base Ford Mustang GT in the $29,000 range when a base model MSRP is $35,995.00?
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Cobra Jet

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My car- Lightning Blue 17 GT A6 Premium - no navigation no other options- paid 32.5 NEW 6 months ago (added springs, wheels, exhaust - but I know that does nothing for value of car)

The other car - Black 18GT Base PP A10 dual climate control - sticker is 42500

The deal -
30K for my car
40K for the 18GT

I really like the 18 (still like the 17 GT hood better lol)

If the 18GT was closer to 36K would make it an easy move to the 18GT
Im just having a hard time paying 10K more when I could throw a PP2 or PP3 on my car for so much less and call it close enough

My car is daily driven 100+ miles a day and will never see track time. But damn is that 10A gen3 coyote combo fun : )

I don’t see it noted, but what is left on your 2017 note (if financed)? I mean, they can offer you $30k trade-in all day long, but if you still owe *$25k (*just put random figure in), there’s really not a good deal happening.
 
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GNN60GT500

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I don’t see it noted, but what is left on your 2017 note (if financed)? I mean, they can offer you $30k trade-in all day long, but if you still owe *$25k (*just put random figure in), there’s really not a good deal happening.
I don't worry about that.. I like my money liquid so if cost of money for the loan is 1.9 and I feel like I can make 5 or 6 percent in the market...I'd rather keep my money where it works for me....

I make the lowest amount possible towards car
 

pro 5.0

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It's all Chinese arithmetic it doesn't matter what they give you on trade or what they knock off the sticker price, the only number that's important is the DIFFERENCE you have to pay.
 

Spork3245

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It's all Chinese arithmetic it doesn't matter what they give you on trade or what they knock off the sticker price, the only number that's important is the DIFFERENCE you have to pay.
Which means that those other two numbers do matter :p
 

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sigintel

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Pass

Your pass was a good move.
It would be a double hit, you would spend 10k to be higher up on the depreciation curve AND take another 6-10k hit in first 6 months of the 2018.
At that point you are averaging what, -10k per 6 months?
Like 20k a year?
If you can afford that, go used Lambo or R8 or ZR1 or GT350R?:hail:
You got it right the first time w a 32k 17 GT. :thumbsup:

2015+ GT drivetrains are overbuilt and will be in demand in used market for sometime. After initial 10K hit for depreciation in first 12-36 months depending on mileage, the prices flatten out.
A used 15,16,17 and:
Swapped 1st gen stage 2 Whipple for 6k installed w OPG, TG or do it yourself.
1k gets you Ford Track or Street suspension
1.2k gets you PP Brembos

It will take several years of driving to be able to safely and skillfully deploy any more torque and rwhp than what you get w Whipple. If you drive a FI coyote, a stock 18 GT will be like driving a minivan or crap can, painful.

Somebody take this gentleman for a spin in a FI GT. :ford:
 
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GNN60GT500

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Your pass was a good move.
It would be a double hit, you would spend 10k to be higher up on the depreciation curve AND take another 6-10k hit in first 6 months of the 2018.
At that point you are averaging what, -10k per 6 months?
Like 20k a year?
If you can afford that, go used Lambo or R8 or ZR1 or GT350R?:hail:
You got it right the first time w a 32k 17 GT. :thumbsup:

2015+ GT drivetrains are overbuilt and will be in demand in used market for sometime. After initial 10K hit for depreciation in first 12-36 months depending on mileage, the prices flatten out.
A used 15,16,17 and:
Swapped 1st gen stage 2 Whipple for 6k installed w OPG, TG or do it yourself.
1k gets you Ford Track or Street suspension
1.2k gets you PP Brembos

It will take several years of driving to be able to safely and skillfully deploy any more torque and rwhp than what you get w Whipple. If you drive a FI coyote, a stock 18 GT will be like driving a minivan or crap can, painful.

Somebody take this gentleman for a spin in a FI GT. :ford:
My biggest problem is Im going to put 150K-200K miles on this car...If this was my "garage car" I would no doubt throw a blower on it and never look back... but at 30K miles a year - I need to keep it relatively stock

I would do the GT350 but too much time in traffic (need auto) - and I like the Vette but I need back seats...but yes I can afford them : )

If I kept the 17 I would PP3 it- if I traded it in- it was a 2K hit as well so all even in my book so the biggest question was do I want to run a 30K car into the ground over the next 6-7 years or a 40K car into the ground over the next 6-7 years .....

Depreciation curves don't matter on a 6-7 year old car with 180K miles on it : )

So the real question was do I want to run a 30K car into the ground or a 40K car into the ground...

I usually keep my cars to 150K miles- so this was a first for me- but I went ahead and did the deal...

Only losing 2K on the 17 was too damn good to pass up.

I do well- my wife does well - and I decided if I spread the extra 10K over 6-7 years - well the difference is worth it to me to move between the cars...

Just got home with the new 18 : )
 

pro 5.0

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Which means that those other two numbers do matter :p
My point was that dealers buy at wholesale and sell at retail so they make you think you are getting good money for your trade, but they don't discount the sticker price by very much.
 

sigintel

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My biggest problem is Im going to put 150K-200K miles on this car...If this was my "garage car" I would no doubt throw a blower on it and never look back... but at 30K miles a year - I need to keep it relatively stock

I would do the GT350 but too much time in traffic (need auto) - and I like the Vette but I need back seats...but yes I can afford them : )

If I kept the 17 I would PP3 it- if I traded it in- it was a 2K hit as well so all even in my book so the biggest question was do I want to run a 30K car into the ground over the next 6-7 years or a 40K car into the ground over the next 6-7 years .....

Depreciation curves don't matter on a 6-7 year old car with 180K miles on it : )

So the real question was do I want to run a 30K car into the ground or a 40K car into the ground...

I usually keep my cars to 150K miles- so this was a first for me- but I went ahead and did the deal...

Only losing 2K on the 17 was too damn good to pass up.

I do well- my wife does well - and I decided if I spread the extra 10K over 6-7 years - well the difference is worth it to me to move between the cars...

Just got home with the new 18 : )
Cool!
Congrats!
I still think you need to put a Whipple on it!!!
And I say this ESPECIALLY because you are going to put that many miles on it.
These drivetrains are freakn stout. The DI adds more margin to fueling allowing the increased compression. The Whipple tune is Ford OEM. Whipple support is better than OEM.
If I drove that much, I would absolutely run a Whipple.

I tried to kill my GT with a Whipple this past year tracking it. 8x 20+ min sessions in a typical weekend. Change fluids, repeat.
4 sets of tires in 14k miles.
If if blows up tomorrow Id be happy I got my moneys worth and go get another.

The real 50th anniversary gift to Mustang enthusiasts was the overbuilt drivetrains. These were basically backdoor GT500s and very cheap and reliable 650-700 RWHP cars. That will be the legend talked about 50 years from now.
Heck, Ford even got involved on the Whipple and Roush tunes!:ford:

FI on a Mustang GT is part of the Mustang mystique, heritage, experience, religion, and a cultural experience of the highest order and finest Americana.
 
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Nomadic

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I don't worry about that.. I like my money liquid so if cost of money for the loan is 1.9 and I feel like I can make 5 or 6 percent in the market...I'd rather keep my money where it works for me....

I make the lowest amount possible towards car
Me too. But I hate paying interest and making payments. Especially payments for several years.
 

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brpec

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What Ford Dealer are you finding a 2018 Base Ford Mustang GT in the $29,000 range when a base model MSRP is $35,995.00?
They have many under 30k
Stivers Ford - AL http://www.stiversfordofmontgomery....-Mustang-10f59b5d0a0e0a6b32d25d915a5fa5cd.htm

there are many more dealers selling under 30k, not hard to find.

with a simple search (I also called the dealers since im looking to get one) I found a premium 400A with PP for 37k and many base with PP for 32 - 34k.
 

ctandc72

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They have many under 30k
Stivers Ford - AL http://www.stiversfordofmontgomery....-Mustang-10f59b5d0a0e0a6b32d25d915a5fa5cd.htm

there are many more dealers selling under 30k, not hard to find.

with a simple search (I also called the dealers since im looking to get one) I found a premium 400A with PP for 37k and many base with PP for 32 - 34k.
Yeah I was shocked how dealers are coming off the price on the '18s around here too. The place where I bought my '17 V6 in October, they have a '18 Orange Fury GT, Base, Performance Pack. I have NEVER been a fan of orange until I drove by and saw that car with the black wheels. I jokingly sent an email to the salesman I dealt with. He came back with real close to what I paid for my '17 on trade and $33K OTD on the GT.
 

thill444

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They have many under 30k
Stivers Ford - AL http://www.stiversfordofmontgomery....-Mustang-10f59b5d0a0e0a6b32d25d915a5fa5cd.htm

there are many more dealers selling under 30k, not hard to find.

with a simple search (I also called the dealers since im looking to get one) I found a premium 400A with PP for 37k and many base with PP for 32 - 34k.
Look at the fine print. This includes Military Appreciation and a $1000 trade in discount and another $1000 if you finance through them (which means their rates could be bad). Also what are the dealer fees? Still good pricing, but the dealers that advertsise these really low prices usually have a catch.
 
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seth21w

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What was the amount financed? Thats the only number that matters in negotiations!
 

ctandc72

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What was the amount financed? Thats the only number that matters in negotiations!
Are you including taxes and tags / registration in that number? I know other states have it much worse than VA, but when I told a coworker what I paid for my '17, he told me "I could have gotten you a better deal than that." So I called "his guy". ALL his prices were BEFORE Taxes, Tags etc.

When I tried to explain to my coworker that the price I told him was what it cost OTD - including all applicable taxes etc he just looked confused.
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