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MyMilkshake...

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What other modifications do you have to do to the car? Half shafts? How much BHP + LBS/FT can the engine take before little ends etc fail?
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I tuned my car before it hit 1000 miles than SC'ed for the last 1500 miles. I've got about 6000 on the car now. With current mods I'm on about 600rwhp. Factory clutch drive shaft and half shafts. My dealer told me lower end of engine/drive train is rated for around 900 horse
 

evo8904

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I upgraded the stock half shafts at the same time as the SC install. The stock shafts are weak.
 

MikeD1

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Depends on what you plan to do with the car. Are you planning to be a street warrior, take it to the strip, track it ???
 

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I have an auto with the Roush kit. No other mods. I plan on doing the stage 2 and even the stage 3 kit when they come available. The only other mod I feel I need right now are tires. The reason I went with a 2015 was the ability to see more than 650rwhp on stock internals... (that AND the fact that the car is MUCH nicer)
 

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MyMilkshake...

MyMilkshake...

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Street Warrior, Track and maybe a few 1/4 miles in its life time

Half shafts are a concern of mine, what is the highest I can boost too without having any reliability issues, I was planning 600-650RWH
 

evo8904

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Street Warrior, Track and maybe a few 1/4 miles in its life time

Half shafts are a concern of mine, what is the highest I can boost too without having any reliability issues, I was planning 600-650RWH
Half shafts can break at stock HP. They should be swapped at the same time of the SC install.
 

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If you are going to do some track work, I'd definitely beef up the suspension especially the IRS as it's a known weak spot on the car. I chose the Steeda package (see my sig.) as it had many good reviews, easy to install (and remove if needed) and was not crazy expensive.

Since you have the stick, the 1/2 shafts become more of a concern especially if you plan to run drag radials or other "sticky" tires. Seems like a lot of guys snap the shafts with this set-up at the strip. Wheel hop is the #1 enemy of the shafts (which the Steeda kit will help control).

2 choices really. If you plan to do a lot of 1/4 miles runs, prob. should just do the shafts now & be safe. If its only going to be rare occasions & you don't plan to beat on it hard, I'd skip the shafts for now. If you bust one, then you will need a tow home & to the shop and you can replace them @ that time with the Ford Racing ones or DSS etc.

I went around & around on this same point & decided to just go with the OE shafts for now as I don't really anticipate doing much "serious" strip work & won't be running drag radials ever.
 
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MyMilkshake...

MyMilkshake...

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Chances are it will never go to the drag strip, drag radials will never happen, I think I will just SC it and hope for the best, if they do break then I will replace them, chances are slim on the street I guess,

Wheel hop - I'm going to install BMR cradle lockout and Eibachs, hopefully reduce it a lot,
 

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Chances are it will never go to the drag strip, drag radials will never happen, I think I will just SC it and hope for the best, if they do break then I will replace them, chances are slim on the street I guess,

Wheel hop - I'm going to install BMR cradle lockout and Eibachs, hopefully reduce it a lot,
Get the BMR vertical links too. They help a lot. The stock ones are a joke.
 

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MyMilkshake...

MyMilkshake...

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I have heard a lot of people having issues with those, I will wait and see if I need anything else,
 

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Cam and oil pump gears I have heard, sounds expensive if those break.:shrug:
There is not real good evidence that replacing these eliminates breakage. It's my understanding that even the hardened MMR pieces have failed. It has more to do with a good tune and detonation control than changing to hardened gears.
 
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MyMilkshake...

MyMilkshake...

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Is that common? What's easier on the engine a pro charger or a Whipple? If that fails isn't it a new engine? When do thee things become an issue?
 
 








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