Stainless Power 1 7/8 Headers Unboxing

[powerhogger]

done

Send me one too

Sponsored

 

[Ramen]

I'm installing a Borla S-Type tomorrow on stock headers. Thinking abiout these in a couple of months. Can I purchase the perf connect headers and be good to go to eliminate any bottlenecks or do I need to buy additional items?

 

[dubster99]

How much of a power/sound difference do you think there is between factory and perf. connect? I'm considering cutting out the bottle neck and going full 3".

 

[GTBOB]

Probably going to guess and say no real noticeably difference in power or sound.

 

[skeeter]

I got the headers installed today, on my way home i realized none of the buttons on my steering wheel worked. Blinkers and wipers are fine. Where do I start without going back to the shop? OMG, my horn does not honk.

 

[SLA]

My first thoughts would be either a bad relay or blown fuses.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

Took me about 4 hours to do the passenger side today and an hour to get the driver side off. The worst bolt/nut in the whole install so far has been the rear upper passenger side...F that thing! Had to pause for the night but will finish pulling the head studs out and putting the driver side LT on in the am.... Not a terrible install just longggg and there is no easy way to turn the header nuts on top so it takes a while. Basically the passenger side consisted of 3 hours of turning nuts and replacing with bolts... Getting to that point took less than an hour. On the drivers side it took 15 minutes to get to the header and 45 to get it off. Really easy to get off but none of those nuts spin easy!!!

I'll take a pic of all the tools I used; having each of them made my life easier! The absolute must though is a 15mm ratcheting wrench!

Oh and impact driver is useless, doesn't fit anywhere. Maybe used it on 3 bolts. Imma return it tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So about those tools you used?

 

[beefcake]

Send me one too

I'm installing a Borla S-Type tomorrow on stock headers. Thinking abiout these in a couple of months. Can I purchase the perf connect headers and be good to go to eliminate any bottlenecks or do I need to buy additional items?

you'll need a small section of pipe which we can do, if your staying n/a it's not going to make a difference though to be honest. and you can always elimitate it later just about as easily

How much of a power/sound difference do you think there is between factory and perf. connect? I'm considering cutting out the bottle neck and going full 3".

none n/a, once you go to f/I about probably 700hp , you'll start to see a difference

I got the headers installed today, on my way home i realized none of the buttons on my steering wheel worked. Blinkers and wipers are fine. Where do I start without going back to the shop? OMG, my horn does not honk.

is your airbag light on, it may or may not me, more than likely, when the shop took the steering shaft out, they spun the wheel more than 360 degrees and broke the clock spring

 

[dubster99]

So about those tools you used?

I used a variety of extensions to get at mount bolts, cat bolt from top, etc. Racheting wrenches that have a flex head are a must. Nothing else special that I used, except the T40 torx bit for the steering input shaft bolt, and an 8mm torx socket for the header studs.

Having lots of extensions helps. Swivels may help, but I just used my racheting wrench instead.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

I used a variety of extensions to get at mount bolts, cat bolt from top, etc. Racheting wrenches that have a flex head are a must. Nothing else special that I used, except the T40 torx bit for the steering input shaft bolt, and an 8mm torx socket for the header studs.

Having lots of extensions helps. Swivels may help, but I just used my racheting wrench instead.

Ok, thanks. I do have the flex head ratcheting wrenches, also elbow ratchet wrenches, and alot of extensions. I just wanted to be sure there wasn't anything else I could possibly use that would make it alittle easier.

 

[dubster99]

As long as you have a full socket/wrench set with the other stuff, you'll be good.

Just a heads up, it's easier to get at the pass bolts if you remove the battery, battery box, and the tray that sits between the battery box and firewall. Sound tube delete helps big time on the drivers side.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

As long as you have a full socket/wrench set with the other stuff, you'll be good.

Just a heads up, it's easier to get at the pass bolts if you remove the battery, battery box, and the tray that sits between the battery box and firewall. Sound tube delete helps big time on the drivers side.

With the sound tube delete will I be able to leave the intake in during the install? Also is there anything special required to remove the battery tray or is it pretty straight forward? I'm not with my car, so I'm just trying to get a good idea.

 

[MyLilPony]

With the sound tube delete will I be able to leave the intake in during the install? Also is there anything special required to remove the battery tray or is it pretty straight forward? I'm not with my car, so I'm just trying to get a good idea.

Yeah you should be able to leave the intake in. I have. A JLT and I didn't touch it. Most important tools are a 15mm and 13mm flex head ratcheting wrenches. A flex head 1/4 in driver is nice to if you use a socket instead of the wrench. Various 3/4 extensions. The list CJ give is perfect for the most part though.


Oh yeah, I got a 1/2in to 3/4in reducer in case I needed more leverage. Used it twice I think, hands hurt from turning so much.

I didn't remove the battery tray, would have helped but got a little lazy with it.

Some notes:

You do not need to pull the motor mounts out on either side though just the bracket.

Rear firewall side header bolts are the WORST!

Random issue, I couldn't get my stearing wheel to lock so I clamped and zip tied my wheel so it didn't move.

For the top starter bolt use a little tape to hold the bolt to the socket and a 6in extension to get the threads started. Once it's started pull it off and remove the tape.

Drivers side rear O2 is kinda long (I have auto so can't speak for m6) make sure to zip tie it down.

Rear motor mount bolt is easier to get to by tire to loosen. You will need a swivel to get to it from here.

Trying to use a socket on the motor mount top nut is kinda worthless once the headers are on, Use a ratcheting wrench from the bottom to tighten.

Wear mechanics gloves and clear glasses! Depending on temp a long sleeve shirt cause it will cut you the F up!

Follow CJ's instructions on order of removal and replacement for starter and bracket.

Moving the motor up and down slightly may be needed a few times to help open space for you to turn nuts.

I went to confession after the install, lots of swearing at ford for making it so tight in there!!!

 

[KilluminatiDre]

Thank you very much. I'm looking forward to this kinda.

 

[dubster99]

It wasn't hard, just time consuming....lots of steps. Battery tray is easy. Just 10mm bolts, and a couple 13's if I remember right. I removed my intake and box just because it doesn't take any time to do, and opens lots of space up should you need it.

Sponsored