Auto-x newbie - few questions

[kz]

Took SCCA Starting Line school last Saturday - was a blast (never expected this car to have that much grip), definitely want to do more. Folks from Evo Driving School were the instructors.

Have few basic question that you good people out there can answer in no time :

- how to get cone rubber off the bumper ? Some of it came off easily, some of it doesn't want to come off...

- I guess I need numbers for next event - what should I get ? Magnetic ones ? Do I need class designation and a number (FS ? - car is stock)

- How does the whole thing with work assignments work - how will I know it's my time to drive ? How many times you typically get to drive on an average event ? Is that couple of runs close to each other time-wise and then rest of the time working ?

Sorry that these are basic, but want to try and never done anything like that.

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[2Cool]

WD40 can get some cone rash off, or polishing compound. Class and number is needed for both sides of the car. Most events will have initial sign up and drivers meeting assigning work and run groups, then announce as each switches over. Number of runs varies by course leng5h, attendance, and organizers. Most run 4-6 times.

 

[DickR]

Cone marks are usually plastic from the cone or tire rubber that was on the cone. Frequently you can rub them off using a wet rag. If you look carefully you can see the plastic coming off. Also bug and tar remover can work. I've been autocrossing since the 1970's and have never tried WD-40 but have used 3M adhesive remover and even mineral spirits. Anything with abrasives is usually only needed if the clear coat is scuffed by a cone. In my experience this happens when the cones are COLD and stiff.

 

[Tony Alonso]

Have few basic question that you good people out there can answer in no time :


- I guess I need numbers for next event - what should I get ? Magnetic ones ? Do I need class designation and a number (FS ? - car is stock)

- How does the whole thing with work assignments work - how will I know it's my time to drive ? How many times you typically get to drive on an average event ? Is that couple of runs close to each other time-wise and then rest of the time working ?

This has a lot of good information on the basics. Regarding numbers, you can get use black electrical or painters tape and form the needed characters (yes, you would typically use your favorite 2-digit number and the class designation).

 

[DickR]

Regarding numbers: The most flexible and economical magnetic number approach is to buy a package of individual numbers from a vendor such as http://www.soloperformance.com/8-inch-Single-Color-Magnetic-or-Reusable-Number-Package_p_1378.html

If you pick an individual number package with a font such as block that allows flipping a 6 to become a 9 or allows easy modification with tape such as making a 3 into an 8 you gain some options if your favorite number isn't available. Also include a 1 for codrivers at SCCA events or for more number flexibility.

Please pick numbers that are easy to read from a distance against your car color. Corner workers, which you will be also at most events, really need to see the number clearly when your car is moving quickly.

My car is Ruby Red. My numbers are white in block font.

Dick
FS 50
2015 Mustang GT

 

[kz]

Thanks guys. Read the novice handbook a while ago. Guess just need to go and give it a try...

Do you have concerns over the wear on the car ? People seemed to be surprised I brought such a new car, but I bought it to drive and 65mph on I-75 isn't exactly a lot of fun ;-)

How quickly you go through a set of tires ?

 

[ecolulz]

This stuff is awesome: http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-09224-Racing-Rubber-Remover/dp/B005R5WGCS

Also, I got a magnetic kit from Solo Performance Specialties. www.soloperformance.com

 

[kz]

This stuff is awesome: http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-09224-Racing-Rubber-Remover/dp/B005R5WGCS

Thanks ! (interestingly Amazon shows "This item does not fit your 2015 Mustang" LOL !

 

[WatchSquid]

Took SCCA Starting Line school last Saturday - was a blast (never expected this car to have that much grip), definitely want to do more. Folks from Evo Driving School were the instructors.

Have few basic question that you good people out there can answer in no time :

- how to get cone rubber off the bumper ? Some of it came off easily, some of it doesn't want to come off...

- I guess I need numbers for next event - what should I get ? Magnetic ones ? Do I need class designation and a number (FS ? - car is stock)

- How does the whole thing with work assignments work - how will I know it's my time to drive ? How many times you typically get to drive on an average event ? Is that couple of runs close to each other time-wise and then rest of the time working ?

Sorry that these are basic, but want to try and never done anything like that.

A lot of these have been answered, but I'll add my .02.
- Cone marks - Bug and Tar remover has always done the trick. Add an extra heavy coat of wax down low before the event. It will help removing the marks.

- Until you have a number established, the best thing to do is use a white piece of heavy paper and use black marker to put on numbers, use painter's tape to apply to the car. After you have an event or 2 down, you can get a set of magnetic numbers made. SOLO rules require 8" numbers with 4" class letters, CONTRASTING to the background. If timing/scoring and the corner workers can't read your numbers it won't be good. ;) You'll see really quickly when you're standing out there on the course what works and what doesn't. I use iZoom Graphics for my numbers. Sean is a stand up guy, great service and quick turn around.
Vinyl numbers on a white magnetic background. (Works on all colors)

And mine.

- Run/work order: Done by your class. It will be posted or read during the drivers meeting. The call will go out for workers during the last runs of the previous heat. Check in with the worker chief, and they'll assign you to a work assignment. Most clubs have distinctive colored shirts or vests for the officials. Get with one early in the day and ask your questions. Take any "Novice" help (walk throughs/rides/instructors) you can get. After a couple of events it'll make sense.

 

[Tony Alonso]

Thanks guys. Read the novice handbook a while ago. Guess just need to go and give it a try...

Do you have concerns over the wear on the car ? People seemed to be surprised I brought such a new car, but I bought it to drive and 65mph on I-75 isn't exactly a lot of fun ;-)

How quickly you go through a set of tires ?

This was my benchmark for tire wear when I was most active in the area SCCA autocrosses. I replaced a set of tires on my 1996 Mustang Cobra after about 2 years of use as mainly a street driver, then a once/month autocrosser for 9 events in one of those years. Most of the wear I saw was on the fronts because of understeer with stock suspension settings - outside edge where the sidewall meets the tread blocks. If you do it occasionally, the wear should be limited. Other times I've done it, really couldn't tell there was any appreciable wear. This is far different from road course driving at higher speeds for longer periods of time, as you might expect.

 

[BmacIL]

Another tip:
Bring some chalk with you. Put marks on the sidewall (up through the corner of the tread) of your tires like the numbers on an analog clock. After your first run you can see how far the sidewall is rolling over and adjust your tire pressures accordingly.

 

[DickR]

Autocross tire wear with ANY tire, including oem summer or all season is very dependent on the pavement surface. An abrasive surface will, as expected, wear tires much more rapidly than a relatively smooth surface. This applies to both asphalt and concrete.

Realistically autocross with a Mustang is hard on tires but so is daily driving :-) If autocross is a priority with 19 inch wheels (GT PP) then your choices now are either Bridgestone RE-71R or Dunlop ZII Star Spec. 275/35x19 F&R. My understanding from the experts at TireRack and elsewhere is that any other type of tire, including highly rated Michelin Pilot Super Sports, will tend to have much more "tread/sidewall" wear and will be slower.

In general if daily driving is an issue one option is a lower price set of 19 inch wheels with the oem, or equivalent, tires for street use and save the stickies for autocross. FYI I have 4700 miles and 108 runs on my Bridgestones but tread depth at the best center groove is around 4/32 or slightly greater. I'll be using set #2 now for long trip autocrosses.


Dick
FS 50
2015 Mustang GT

 

[DickR]

Another tip:
Bring some chalk with you. Put marks on the sidewall (up through the corner of the tread) of your tires like the numbers on an analog clock. After your first run you can see how far the sidewall is rolling over and adjust your tire pressures accordingly.

FYI as a head start, again assuming 2015 GT PP, the Bridgestones like about 34 F and 30 F (assuming the camber modification is done). The ZII star specs are probably similar. For oem tires I would start with about 40 front and about 35 rear.

 

[kz]

Another question - does adding strut tower brace (which is OEM on PP) takes me out of Street class and into Street Touring (or something else) ?

 

[DickR]

Another question - does adding strut tower brace (which is OEM on PP) takes me out of Street class and into Street Touring (or something else) ?

Yes. Any part that was not included with your car when delivered or as a stand alone option is not allowed in Street. I don't know what the Street Touring rules are regarding strut tower braces but the rules are free on the SCCA web site.

Note: Just to be clear Street does permit some oem or aftermarket changes such as shocks, front or rear (not both) anti-roll bar, brake pads, cat back exhaust, and up to 7 mm wheel offset change. Also some minor "comfort and convenience" changes (this doesn't mean different seats . . . )

Dick
FS 50
2015 Mustang GT with PP

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