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Pre-Purchase Advice 2018 GT350

badwolfe

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I am looking at a 2018 GT350 for sale about 2 hours west of where I live in NC. I owned a 2016 GT350 for a couple of years/sold it in 2018 and am looking at potentially another one. Car has original engine with 33.5k miles. Oasis report shows 3 warranty repair items (front hubs, fuel pump and stripe replacement on trunk). I can't verify regular oil changes or how car was driven. I've searched forum looking for advice on what things (particularly engine wise) you would do when inspecting car. I will have car inspected by 3rd party but they will be mostly checking appearance, leaks, brakes, suspension, etc. Engine inspection is limited to leaks and checking relative cleanliness and appearance of engine fluids. Am concerned about engine longevity. Not looking to track - my 2016 was just a fun car to drive. Any advice on what you would look for if you were considering purchase???? TIA
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I am tolling with this also. I looked at 2019. 4 hours from me in SF area. from third owner 26k, carfax minor accident. Extra set of wheels and tires, more all around set then factory. History before him was unknown. It was down a quart of oil and he didn't know it. Oil changed intervals where long under his ownership. Beautiful car. He said he would take 56k. I said it needed a leak down test and to look at brake pads depth and tire depth and try deduce track use. i.e. lots of brakes left no track time. He took it to get a compression test which was normal. Was advertised here and on facebook. It was my first gt350 I've looked at so far. My dad always never buy the first car you look at but you've already owned one. The last mustang I owned was 1986 gt manual that i loved.
 

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Blwnsmoke

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I am looking at a 2018 GT350 for sale about 2 hours west of where I live in NC. I owned a 2016 GT350 for a couple of years/sold it in 2018 and am looking at potentially another one. Car has original engine with 33.5k miles. Oasis report shows 3 warranty repair items (front hubs, fuel pump and stripe replacement on trunk). I can't verify regular oil changes or how car was driven. I've searched forum looking for advice on what things (particularly engine wise) you would do when inspecting car. I will have car inspected by 3rd party but they will be mostly checking appearance, leaks, brakes, suspension, etc. Engine inspection is limited to leaks and checking relative cleanliness and appearance of engine fluids. Am concerned about engine longevity. Not looking to track - my 2016 was just a fun car to drive. Any advice on what you would look for if you were considering purchase???? TIA
My 2018 barely has anything on carfax. One recall when it was new and a couple warranty repairs. I do all my own oil changes as well as brake work so all of it isn't listed. Annual oil changes with Amsoil and have 27k on it. Next to flawless it's entire life so far and zero oil consumption. This will probably be my first vehicle that I wasn't ahead on with the repairs vs ESP cost.
 

sk47

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Hello; Beyond the due diligence of checking out any used car the GT350 has at least two extra things to consider. Usually the price & that it is a true hotrod. For the common prices I would want to have some extra tests done before the purchase. Things such as a compression test and a bore scope camera imaging.
I saw on another thread the suggestion to have a long test drive. Offer to buy enough gas to go a hundred + miles rather than just around the block.
Standard things I ask for is to watch the car start up from cold say after overnight. I like to listen and watch the tailpipes.
Get under the car for pictures and a good look see.
Also, if cold actually check the coolant & oil levels.
Check the OBD II for codes
Test all the functions= roll up and down the windows; run the wipers; run the AC and such.

I have a friend who bought used vehicles from a great distance who did none of these things. In the cases where he brought the car for me to fix it was 100% an expensive extra expense. Always something costly to replace or repair. The good thing was the cars he picked were less costly than a 3590GT. Most commonly a very used MB luxury sedan.

I do not for sure know a good way to check if a "hotrod" has been abused. Too many times, threads show up on here about someone buying a "dream" GT350 and winding up with serious engine issues. In fact such a thread recently went dead on such a car. With pictures of scored cylinders and a transmission full of metal according to his mechanic. He replaced some injectors to fix a miss and called it good and quit posting. I asked him to post the VIN on here if he decided to sell it but no response to that. My guess is that car is or will be for sale or maybe already gifted to someone else for a steep price.

good luck
 
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badwolfe

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Hello; Beyond the due diligence of checking out any used car the GT350 has at least two extra things to consider. Usually the price & that it is a true hotrod. For the common prices I would want to have some extra tests done before the purchase. Things such as a compression test and a bore scope camera imaging.
I saw on another thread the suggestion to have a long test drive. Offer to buy enough gas to go a hundred + miles rather than just around the block.
Standard things I ask for is to watch the car start up from cold say after overnight. I like to listen and watch the tailpipes.
Get under the car for pictures and a good look see.
Also, if cold actually check the coolant & oil levels.
Check the OBD II for codes
Test all the functions= roll up and down the windows; run the wipers; run the AC and such.

I have a friend who bought used vehicles from a great distance who did none of these things. In the cases where he brought the car for me to fix it was 100% an expensive extra expense. Always something costly to replace or repair. The good thing was the cars he picked were less costly than a 3590GT. Most commonly a very used MB luxury sedan.

I do not for sure know a good way to check if a "hotrod" has been abused. Too many times, threads show up on here about someone buying a "dream" GT350 and winding up with serious engine issues. In fact such a thread recently went dead on such a car. With pictures of scored cylinders and a transmission full of metal according to his mechanic. He replaced some injectors to fix a miss and called it good and quit posting. I asked him to post the VIN on here if he decided to sell it but no response to that. My guess is that car is or will be for sale or maybe already gifted to someone else for a steep price.

good luck
Thanks for the info - good points. I'm going Thursday morning to see the car. I'll call dealer tomorrow and ask them to not start car at all so that I can see it and start it myself and let it run to temp. Had not thought of that. I'm also having a 3rd party inspect it tomorrow which will include using OBDC for codes, etc. Thanks again!
 

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badwolfe

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I am tolling with this also. I looked at 2019. 4 hours from me in SF area. from third owner 26k, carfax minor accident. Extra set of wheels and tires, more all around set then factory. History before him was unknown. It was down a quart of oil and he didn't know it. Oil changed intervals where long under his ownership. Beautiful car. He said he would take 56k. I said it needed a leak down test and to look at brake pads depth and tire depth and try deduce track use. i.e. lots of brakes left no track time. He took it to get a compression test which was normal. Was advertised here and on facebook. It was my first gt350 I've looked at so far. My dad always never buy the first car you look at but you've already owned one. The last mustang I owned was 1986 gt manual that i loved.
Thanks for the info. Did you end up buying car??
 
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badwolfe

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My 2018 barely has anything on carfax. One recall when it was new and a couple warranty repairs. I do all my own oil changes as well as brake work so all of it isn't listed. Annual oil changes with Amsoil and have 27k on it. Next to flawless it's entire life so far and zero oil consumption. This will probably be my first vehicle that I wasn't ahead on with the repairs vs ESP cost.
Thanks for the reply! I've read a lot where folks have changed to Amsoil. What weight are you using?
 

Blwnsmoke

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Thanks for the reply! I've read a lot where folks have changed to Amsoil. What weight are you using?
5w50 which is what is required by Ford. About $125 for oil and filter.
 

95CobraR

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..I am looking at a 2018 GT350 for sale about 2 hours west of where I live in NC. I owned a 2016 GT350 for a couple of years/sold it in 2018 and am looking at potentially another one.
You never said the asking price of the new one. You also never said the price that you sold one for. What you got here?
 

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Sajin

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Make sure you ask them to check the key cycles. If the key cycles aren't correct for the mileage I would walk away. Incorrect key cycles for the mileage means the car was tuned, and could be an issue.
 
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badwolfe

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You never said the asking price of the new one. You also never said the price that you sold one for. What you got here?
You're right! The one I am looking at is $49,999. The 2016 I purchased in 2017 (had trak pack option) with 7K miles and I think I paid $54K for it at Ford Dealer. Sold two years later and if I remember correctly I sold for $56K and it has 10k miles.
 
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badwolfe

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Make sure you ask them to check the key cycles. If the key cycles aren't correct for the mileage I would walk away. Incorrect key cycles for the mileage means the car was tuned, and could be an issue.
What are the "key cycles" and where/how would that be checked? I'm heading to the interwebs as we speak! **UPDATE** The internet came through! I didn't know this was a thing but I will certainly check it! Thanks - Learned something new so it's a good day!
 

Sajin

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What are the "key cycles" and where/how would that be checked? I'm heading to the interwebs as we speak!
It's logged in the ECU. You'll need to ask them about it. It's how many times the car has been turned on/off for the given mileage. A low key cycle count on a car with 33.5k miles is a bad sign.
 

95CobraR

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.....The one I am looking at is $49,999..
I'd say a 2018 Mustang GT350 at $50K is a great deal if the carfax is good. You still need to inspect it.
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