2017 Mustang gt sterero upgrade

[TonyT930]

It came with the Shaker Pro system with the 8 inch sub. That just wasn't good enough, so I upgraded. Here is a list of the parts:

Stinger OFC 4 gauge power wire to 1 farad capacitor.

Stinger OFC 4 gauge from Capacitor to Stinger fuse link/distribution block.

2 Stinger 8 gauge wires from fuse link/distribution block to each amp. Amps are JL Audio 500/1 mono subwoofer amp and JL Audio 300/4 full range 75 watts X 4 to power the cabin speakers.

Cabin speakers - Focal 3 way component speakers Focal AS 165AS3 for the doors. Focal Access 6.5 coaxial for the rear seat panels.

Subwoofer - JL Audio 12W3v3-4 4 ohm single voice. RMS 500 in a ported enclosure .75 cubic feet internal space.

I stayed with the stock head unit with an idatalink maestro AFO3 integration cable wired to a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 digital processor.

Other parts - Stinger 8000 series directional RCA cables, 16 gauge OFC speaker wire, 12 gauge subwoofer OFC speaker wires, quick rings for the door speakers and rear panel speakers. Also, round "cushions " behind door woofers to cut down on the back reverberation.

Skar 2mm sound deadening material in the doors, trunk, under rear seat, under black trunk panel, trunk lid,, and license tag.

The results? This fucker sounds awesome and the bass hits strong, clear, and with precision. The Focal AS165 AS3's are bright and accurate. These Focal came with passive crossovers with a -3, 0, +3db adjustment for the tweeters. I left the crossovers at A DB for the tweeters.

I built a amp rack and mounted the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, both JL Audio amps, the capacitor, and both positive and negative to it. The amp rack is in the spare tire well. Here are some pics of the build in various stages... If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Here are some pics at various stages of install.

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[TonyT930]

It came with the Shaker Pro system with the 8 inch sub. That just wasn't good enough, so I upgraded. Here is a list of the parts:

Stinger OFC 4 gauge power wire to 1 farad capacitor.

Stinger OFC 4 gauge from Capacitor to Stinger fuse link/distribution block.

2 Stinger 8 gauge wires from fuse link/distribution block to each amp. Amps are JL Audio 500/1 mono subwoofer amp and JL Audio 300/4 full range 75 watts X 4 to power the cabin speakers.

Cabin speakers - Focal 3 way component speakers Focal AS 165AS3 for the doors. Focal Access 6.5 coaxial for the rear seat panels.

Subwoofer - JL Audio 12W3v3-4 4 ohm single voice. RMS 500 in a ported enclosure .75 cubic feet internal space.

I stayed with the stock head unit with an idatalink maestro AFO3 integration cable wired to a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 digital processor.

Other parts - Stinger 8000 series directional RCA cables, 16 gauge OFC speaker wire, 12 gauge subwoofer OFC speaker wires, quick rings for the door speakers and rear panel speakers. Also, round "cushions " behind door woofers to cut down on the back reverberation.

Skar 2mm sound deadening material in the doors, trunk, under rear seat, under black trunk panel, trunk lid,, and license tag.

The results? This fucker sounds awesome and the bass hits strong, clear, and with precision. The Focal AS165 AS3's are bright and accurate. These Focal came with passive crossovers with a -3, 0, +3db adjustment for the tweeters. I left the crossovers at A DB for the tweeters.

I built a amp rack and mounted the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, both JL Audio amps, the capacitor, and both positive and negative to it. The amp rack is in the spare tire well. Here are some pics of the build in various stages... If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Here are some pics at various stages of install.

Another tidbit of information. Rather than using the remote wire feed wire on the idatalink maestro to turn on the amps, I ran a separate remote wire from the fuse box under the passenger side front kick panel. I tapped fuse location number 23 to send power down the remote wire to turn the amps on. I think it's labeled for "windows" and "switches." I put 2 10 amp fuses in the tap. Tapping this fuse location turns off the amps as soon as you turn off the car. Note - I tried to use the remote wire feed on the idatalink maestro harness to turn on the amps, but it didn't work. The amps wouldn't turn on. So I ran a remote wire from the fuse box to the amps as stated .

 

[joe603]

I had a similar issue when I used the remote lead from the PAC converter...turns out it was my fuse holder

Nice work on the stereo. There's a few builds in the Stereo/Infotainment forum with some pics and tips.

 

[TonyT930]

I had a similar issue when I used the remote lead from the PAC converter...turns out it was my fuse holder

Nice work on the stereo. There's a few builds in the Stereo/Infotainment forum with some pics and tips.

What i found strange is the a put a voltage meter on the remote wire coming from the idatalink cable and it did have some voltage coming through. But the amps still didn't turn on for some reason.

 

[TonyT930]

What i found strange is the a put a voltage meter on the remote wire coming from the idatalink cable and it did have some voltage coming through. But the amps still didn't turn on for some reason.

What i found strange is the a put a voltage meter on the remote wire coming from the idatalink cable and it did have some voltage coming through. But the amps still didn't turn on for some reason.

I even went one step further by taping the fuse link cap down on the idatalink cable so it couldn't get pulled out accidentally. I did that before I installed the idatalink cable. Weird

 

[Ratpack]

How hard was it to install the DSR1? My current setup is an aftermarket radio and I have preamp outputs, but it is currently wired through the factory amp. Funny thing is, the volume is way higher than the factory radio was. I can only go up to 6 on the volume now. Anyway, in addition to the subs on my thread, I also have a 6 channel amp that I can use to power the other speakers and upgrade them. Was the DSR1 plug and play? I see your AMP is a 4 channel, so I assume you ran one channel to each of the fronts and one each to the rear? Did you split the front 3 ways up in anyway or just use the way the factory had them wired?

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