If you go steeda progressives do you NEED camber plates?

[Metz3020827]

Can you get away with camber bolts? I just need factory specs for adjustment. I don’t need crazy adjustment but I don’t want to fuck myself over if I can avoid it.

I’m on 305/35r19 and 275/35r19s as of now for reference. I heard it’s about an inch drop.

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[Krankenstein]

IMO if you are pulling the springs, you might as well get some camber plates while you're at it to help make future alignments/adjustments easier. They can be very helpful, especially if you ever plan on attending track days or autocross events with the car. Steeda, Maximum Motorsports and Vorshlag are all solid options.

However, camber plates are not necessary and you should be able to to get away with just using camber bolts. In regards to your 275 & 305/35/19 tire size you should also be fine. Your wheel offsets are where there might be some concerns. If your wheels poke past the fenders and you drop the car 1" it is possible that you will have to run a more aggressive camber setting, otherwise you may run the risk of rubbing when cornering or hitting bumps. If the wheels sit in or sit flush, you shouldn't have to worry about this. The progressives are a great street spring that give a great stance.

 

[Metz3020827]

IMO if you are pulling the springs, you might as well get some camber plates while you're at it to help make future alignments/adjustments easier. They can be very helpful, especially if you ever plan on attending track days or autocross events with the car. Steeda, Maximum Motorsports and Vorshlag are all solid options.

However, camber plates are not necessary and you should be able to to get away with just using camber bolts. In regards to your 275 & 305/35/19 tire size you should also be fine. Your wheel offsets are where there might be some concerns. If your wheels poke past the fenders and you drop the car 1" it is possible that you will have to run a more aggressive camber setting, otherwise you may run the risk of rubbing when cornering or hitting bumps. If the wheels sit in or sit flush, you shouldn't have to worry about this. The progressives are a great street spring that give a great stance.

I got 19x11 in the rear with a 52 offset.
The fronts are 19x10 with a 40 offset. They look like they’ll fit perfectly flush with the wheel wells if the camber was set correctly.

 

[shogun32]

I got 19x11 in the rear with a 52 offset.
The fronts are 19x10 with a 40 offset. They look like they’ll fit perfectly flush with the wheel wells if the camber was set correctly.

you'll be fine. The question you didn't ask was:

Q: do I need bump-steer kit and roll-center correcting front lateral arms (555-4906)?
A: Yes, if you care about handling. If you're just getting groceries or car shows, then no.

 

[Metz3020827]

you'll be fine. The question you didn't ask was:

Q: do I need bump-steer kit and roll-center correcting front lateral arms (555-4906)?
A: Yes, if you care about handling. If you're just getting groceries or car shows, then no.

Already have both of those.

 

[NightmareMoon]

If you want stock camber you'll need plates or possibly bolts. But I'd ask why you want stock camber? Its anemic for handling and more is better up to well above 3 degrees. The natural camber gain from dropping will probably improve your handling performance, at the expense of a little more tire wear, especially if you don't check your toe often). Toe kills tires in combination with camber or without camber.

If you're fine with the visuals of a bit more than stock camber, you might find the car handles really well without 'fixing' the camber back to stock numbers.

Us hardcore handling guys run 2.5-3.5 or more negative front camber. Works good.

So do you need camber plates or bolts, yeah maybe not. I wouldn't, if it were my car, I'd take the free camber and cook up a rear camber target which works well with the front camber you get.

 

[Metz3020827]

If you want stock camber you'll need plates or possibly bolts. But I'd ask why you want stock camber? Its anemic for handling and more is better up to well above 3 degrees. The natural camber gain from dropping will probably improve your handling performance, at the expense of a little more tire wear, especially if you don't check your toe often). Toe kills tires in combination with camber or without camber.

If you're fine with the visuals of a bit more than stock camber, you might find the car handles really well without 'fixing' the camber back to stock numbers.

Us hardcore handling guys run 2.5-3.5 or more negative front camber. Works good.

So do you need camber plates or bolts, yeah maybe not. I wouldn't, if it were my car, I'd take the free camber and cook up a rear camber target which works well with the front camber you get.

I think my camber in the front is -1.5 now. That’s never been touched really. Alignment shops I’ve taken it to won’t touch the camber plates lol for whatever reason. I’ve never seen them to anything up front besides toe.

 

[shogun32]

Toe kills tires in combination with camber or without camber.

yeah, my 'new to me' (well, 7 months ago) Mach1 had its alignment checked/adjusted today because of my pothole incident on Monday. The front toe was +0.2 and -0.2. Wait, what??!?!?

Now it's -0.01 and +0.05.

Watch the Toe(s)!

 

[Metz3020827]

yeah, my 'new to me' (well, 7 months ago) Mach1 had its alignment checked/adjusted today because of my pothole incident on Monday. The front toe was +0.2 and -0.2. Wait, what??!?!?

Now it's -0.01 and +0.05.

Watch the Toe(s)!

Yep! My family thinks I’m crazy for checking all the time. But it changes lol

 

[NightmareMoon]

yeah, my 'new to me' (well, 7 months ago) Mach1 had its alignment checked/adjusted today because of my pothole incident on Monday. The front toe was +0.2 and -0.2. Wait, what??!?!?

Now it's -0.01 and +0.05.

Watch the Toe(s)!

+2 and -2 can happen if the steering wheel simply just wasnt straight when they measured it the first time.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I think my camber in the front is -1.5 now. That’s never been touched really. Alignment shops I’ve taken it to won’t touch the camber plates lol for whatever reason. I’ve never seen them to anything up front besides toe.

-1.5 is a completely boring normal camber value.. No need to adjust that is basically in spec.

 

[Metz3020827]

-1.5 is a completely boring normal camber value.. No need to adjust that is basically in spec.

Yeah that’s how it sits now but I’ve had it nearing -.85 from one shop. my rear camber sits at almost -3 and I wanna fix that

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah that’s how it sits now but I’ve had it nearing -.85 from one shop. my rear camber sits at almost -3 and I wanna fix that

Yeah thats too much rear camber. Luckily any shop can adjust that, its just annoying

 

[shogun32]

Yeah thats too much rear camber. Luckily any shop can adjust that, its just annoying

Moog has the cheapest cam system. Bmr and Steeda have near identical but 3x the price.

 

[Tycoon]

I would not lower without camber plates.

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