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After posting the musical sounds of the XR8 last week, I wanted to document how a different exhaust setup changes an otherwise similar engine architecture.

My 2017 Mustang was fitted with a Borla Touring cat-back within months of my ownership. I had never modified an exhaust to that point, but the thing was too dam quiet, even the grandpa burgundy XR8 was louder. For an American muscle car, it wasn't living up to its reputation of a loud and proud pony car.

I ended up looking at both Roush and Borla systems, mainly because they had an OE looking tip design. I wanted extra volume but didn't want to be "that guy" with the noisy car. I settled on the Borla Touring in EU spec, which includes a resonated H-Pipe to eliminate rasp and drone.

IMG-0488.jpg


IMG-1177.jpg


IMG-1175.jpg


Even with the resonator, this exhaust is not exactly legal in terms of noise emissions. However, below 3000rpm, the car is quite stealthy, just a natural V8 burble. However, clear 3000rpm and all hell breaks loose!

I still have the original exhaust taking up space in storage. That thing had very little time on the car, but look how manky it looks covered in the hideous black paint they spray export cars with.

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Anyway, the reason for this post.

Cold Start (I love cold starts, so much noisier than a hot start) -



Hot Start & Revs -



The Borla Touring produces a much deeper and more traditional V8 tone. In hindsight, I think I would have preferred a little bit more snap-crackle-pop in the same vein of the XR8. In which case, I should have chosen the Borla S-Type with the X-Pipe.

But I do love how subtle the Touring can be when needed, while still being obvious unlike the OE exhaust. On the other hand, it properly howls when given a boot full, without drowning out the delicious induction note. Surely this is the best combination, allowing the engine itself to bark back through the firewall, while providing just the right amount of exhaust noise to permeate through the cabin.

I hear a lot of Mustang exhausts and while they are loud, they are just that, loud. In that I mean they lack any tonal tuning, so you get ALL of the noise, be that the good or bad noises. I think this is where choosing a brand like Corsa, Borla or Roush comes into the equation. I remember when I was asking the local shop about exhausts, they wanted to sell me some off the shelf mufflers and tips. To me, that would have been potluck and I didn't want to be messing around with different combinations at my expense. At least with choosing a system like this, there are plenty of online sound clips to gauge what it will sound like. Not to mention the simple, straightforward install.

As it stands, I'm not sure what I will do with the S650 when it arrives. Ford nailed the brief with the Active Exhaust on the later S550 and new S650. However, it looks like the S650 has been toned down to meet ADR laws. In which case, I may just swap out the resonator for an X or H pipe and leave the rest.
I had the Touring setup on my F150 with the Gen 3 Coyote and I agree it was very mellow and unobtrusive in normal driving but would really bark if you gave it the beans. I did go S type on my Mustang and it is a bit more in your face all the time but still manageable, of course I can flip to quiet mode if I really need to quieten down :)
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Well I am glad to hear this in a way. Gtechniq has kinda been on my radar. I definitely regretted buying Stjarnagloss stuff, although their Forst is a bright spot so far, I did order a second bottle of that but I have relegated the Sno and Matta soaps to my wheel bucket only :). The Silke is decent for quick touch ups, and the Hjul wheel cleaner I used to douse my Mazda before foaming down with Lift a couple weekends ago for a decon wash :) I now have NV on my radar more and more, I used Snow to wash both of mine this past weekend and it is great stuff, as well as Purge to clean my nasty wheels.
Like any brand, NV have some gems...............and a few duds.

The Good -

Snow - a pH "balanced" soap, smells nice, foams great, cleans great, ultra slick.

Snow+ - an alkaline decon soap, no scent, fantastic foaming and slickness, excellent cleaning/stripping ability.

Purge - an iron removing wheel cleaner, one of the least offensive smelling of its type. This stuff is my go-to iron remover wheel cleaner, its ability is extremely impressive on filthy wheels.

Purify - this is a combined iron-remover and clay lubricant, although I tend to use it as an iron remover only. Again, the least offensive smelling of its type.

Onyx Tyre Dressing - one of my favorite dressings, applies very smoothly and requires minimal working. Longevity is on par with other water-based dressings. Scent is a highlight.

Boost v2 - one of the best ceramic detailers on the market, very forgiving to use with excellent hydrophobics. I prefer this over the older v1 version of Boost.

Cleanse - a foaming leather cleaner that is gentle but effective.

Nourish - a leather and vinyl protector. I love this because it produces a lovely soft matte finish without introducing a sickly scent.

The Don't Bother -

Clarity Prep Spray / Glass Cleaner - probably their worst product. It smells and acts like IPA with water and doesn't have the lubrication of something like Eraser. I threw mine away.

Jet and Lustre - this is probably controversial, but I have moved away from these two. I never enjoyed the user experience of Lustre, it was very hard to get a clear finish from. Jet I have used more, and while I loved the extreme water behavior, again, it could be hard to work with. Both are variable though, sometimes they apply beautifully, sometimes they are frustrating. I feel like these two products are ready for a new formulation as other companies have caught up and advanced the segment (KCx S0.02, Reload 2.0 or even Can Coat EVO). Boost v2, which is based on Jet, does everything these two do, but with less hassle.

Boost v1 - this is on runout but there is still decent supply around. Think of this like a supercharged detail spray. While most detail sprays wash off in the rain, Boost will hang on until washed with soap, in theory taking contamination with it rather than bonding to paint. I don't know how effective that concept is though. Its an ok product, but v2 easily eclipses it.
_____________________________________________________________

Of their three ceramic coatings, I have only used Wheel, which was ok but not outstanding. I know someone who swears by the EVO Paint Coating though.

The following I have not used -

Shift - a water spot/mineral remover.

Guardian - a leather ceramic coating, I don't believe coating leather is a good thing.

Precision & Finesse - a heavy cut and fine cut polish respectively. Never felt the need to look beyond top-tier polishing focused brands like Rupes, Scholl and Sonax.

I think products like Snow, Boost v2, Purge, Purify, Nourish and Onyx are the ones to look at.
 
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My Waxit Black Friday order arrived today.................

IMG-0080.webp


Carpro Lift is probably my favorite alkaline decon soap, and I have decided to give NV Snow another run. Both were bargains with this sale.

The rest is new to me. The Carpro fragrances have been around a while, however the Shine Supply ones have only just been launched. Here, I'm trying Carpro's Lime & Mint and Squash, Shine Supply's Apple and Coconut scents.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...39314842386521
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40652805734489

I also decided to try two of Carpro's newest arrivals -

Clarify PH2OBIC , pronounced Clarify-Phobic. Stupid name aside, this is a glass cleaner with Si02 in it, meaning you clean and protect in one step. Personally, I would probably team this with an existing glass coating, and I would not use this on interior glass, especially on tint film.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40654591819865

The Skin Care Kit is a very nice addition to the Carpro range, combining the new leather cleaner and protectant, brush, towels and MicroBuff pad in one box. The chemicals are not yet available separately, but the brush and MicroBuff can be purchased separately.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40654447968345
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40653098156121

The first thing I noticed with this kit is the above mentioned MicroBuff pad, which can be used for cleaning or as an applicator pad. It feels extremely soft and plush, and features a foam inner pad to maintain integrity. I can see why this is currently sold out!

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40654455472217

cpmb102.png



cpmb103.jpg
 

skinnyb

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Like any brand, NV have some gems...............and a few duds.

The Good -

Snow - a pH "balanced" soap, smells nice, foams great, cleans great, ultra slick.

Snow+ - an alkaline decon soap, no scent, fantastic foaming and slickness, excellent cleaning/stripping ability.

Purge - an iron removing wheel cleaner, one of the least offensive smelling of its type. This stuff is my go-to iron remover wheel cleaner, its ability is extremely impressive on filthy wheels.

Purify - this is a combined iron-remover and clay lubricant, although I tend to use it as an iron remover only. Again, the least offensive smelling of its type.

Onyx Tyre Dressing - one of my favorite dressings, applies very smoothly and requires minimal working. Longevity is on par with other water-based dressings. Scent is a highlight.

Boost v2 - one of the best ceramic detailers on the market, very forgiving to use with excellent hydrophobics. I prefer this over the older v1 version of Boost.

Cleanse - a foaming leather cleaner that is gentle but effective.

Nourish - a leather and vinyl protector. I love this because it produces a lovely soft matte finish without introducing a sickly scent.

The Don't Bother -

Clarity Prep Spray / Glass Cleaner - probably their worst product. It smells and acts like IPA with water and doesn't have the lubrication of something like Eraser. I threw mine away.

Jet and Lustre - this is probably controversial, but I have moved away from these two. I never enjoyed the user experience of Lustre, it was very hard to get a clear finish from. Jet I have used more, and while I loved the extreme water behavior, again, it could be hard to work with. Both are variable though, sometimes they apply beautifully, sometimes they are frustrating. I feel like these two products are ready for a new formulation as other companies have caught up and advanced the segment (KCx S0.02, Reload 2.0 or even Can Coat EVO). Boost v2, which is based on Jet, does everything these two do, but with less hassle.

Boost v1 - this is on runout but there is still decent supply around. Think of this like a supercharged detail spray. While most detail sprays wash off in the rain, Boost will hang on until washed with soap, in theory taking contamination with it rather than bonding to paint. I don't know how effective that concept is though. Its an ok product, but v2 easily eclipses it.
_____________________________________________________________

Of their three ceramic coatings, I have only used Wheel, which was ok but not outstanding. I know someone who swears by the EVO Paint Coating though.

The following I have not used -

Shift - a water spot/mineral remover.

Guardian - a leather ceramic coating, I don't believe coating leather is a good thing.

Precision & Finesse - a heavy cut and fine cut polish respectively. Never felt the need to look beyond top-tier polishing focused brands like Rupes, Scholl and Sonax.

I think products like Snow, Boost v2, Purge, Purify, Nourish and Onyx are the ones to look at.
Great info, thanks for the run down. I definitely have Snow, Purge, and Purify in my arsenal, I have tried Boost V2 and like it OK, not my favorite (S0.02 takes the prize for me on this front) but I will still use the bottle up. I just re-ordered some more Snow and Purge and added Snow+ to the list. I want to try compared to LIft and Gyeon Foam. I have Snow in my current line up, I like it a lot but rotate among all my others for a change of pace (Reset, GSF, Bathe, Incredible Suds). I definitley agree with Purge being my favorite, it is just magical at lifting grime off wheels and foams up nicely when agitated. I like MWC as well but Purge is maybe a little better, and cheaper too. Purify is excellent, I use with my Synthetic decon towel, haven't used as an exclusive iron remover yet, I am still working on a bottle of IronX at the moment and have a bottle of Gyeon Iron remover to try next :) I have considered Onyx however I am on a PSS kick right now :) I haven't made the foray in to the interior products yet, I prefer the P&S and KCx products I have on hand at the moment.

That said, I have just started into the realm of rinseless as the weather gets colder. I have tried P&S Absolute and DIY Detail rinseless. I like them both but the DIY being able to foam is a nice bonus. I put in my small IK foamer a few weeks ago and it worked fantastic, I just invested in the IK Pro 12, it arrived yesterday. Gonna try it out next, may take a few minutes to get the dillution rate down for such a large foamer.
 
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That said, I have just started into the realm of rinseless as the weather gets colder. I have tried P&S Absolute and DIY Detail rinseless. I like them both but the DIY being able to foam is a nice bonus. I put in my small IK foamer a few weeks ago and it worked fantastic, I just invested in the IK Pro 12, it arrived yesterday. Gonna try it out next, may take a few minutes to get the dillution rate down for such a large foamer.
I typically like the polymer type rinse-less washes (ONR, Absolute) over surfactant types (N-914, DIY). Not sure why, they just feel smoother.

If you want to try something different, but the same, try yellow ONR. This is the ceramic version of the regular/blue ONR, but slicker and nicer smelling. Oh, and M-Wash is a fantastic soap, overpriced in Australia, but such a treat to use.

Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company
Opti-Coat - M-Wash | The Rag Company

IMG-8276.webp


I have to say though, one of the best combinations of rinse-less wash and a drying aid would be DIY Rinse-less teamed with DIY Ceramic Gloss. Whatever they have done, these two work together so well.

IMG-8479.webp


IMG-8148.webp
 

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I typically like the polymer type rinse-less washes (ONR, Absolute) over surfactant types (N-914, DIY). Not sure why, they just feel smoother.

If you want to try something different, but the same, try yellow ONR. This is the ceramic version of the regular/blue ONR, but slicker and nicer smelling. Oh, and M-Wash is a fantastic soap, overpriced in Australia, but such a treat to use.

Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company
Opti-Coat - M-Wash | The Rag Company

IMG-8276.jpg


I have to say though, one of the best combinations of rinse-less wash and a drying aid would be DIY Rinse-less teamed with DIY Ceramic Gloss. Whatever they have done, these two work together so well.

IMG-8479.jpg


IMG-8148.jpg
My current plan for winter when my car is really nasty is to use the IK pro 12 and foam the car at the local coin wash with the DIY rinseless. While the foam soaks, work on the wheels then do a coin fueled complete rinse. Then pull outside and have a bucket of Absolute ready and an ultra black sponge for the actual contact wash, probably spritz with Beadmaker and dry off. Probably a waste of product but I am hoping the surfactant based rinseless will release and help rinse off as much as possible. If it doesn't work well, I may put a soap in the foamer for the initial foam down. Definitely a work in progress, only for my daily driver as my Mustang is put to bed for the season unless we have a really nice day in the next few months :)

Oh, and by the way, I saw your Youtube videos of your car, it sounds fantastic :) the Touring is one of my favorites has an excellent tone. I went S type but with active I can shut the valves when I need it to calm down.
 

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I typically like the polymer type rinse-less washes (ONR, Absolute) over surfactant types (N-914, DIY). Not sure why, they just feel smoother.

If you want to try something different, but the same, try yellow ONR. This is the ceramic version of the regular/blue ONR, but slicker and nicer smelling. Oh, and M-Wash is a fantastic soap, overpriced in Australia, but such a treat to use.

Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company
Opti-Coat - M-Wash | The Rag Company

IMG-8276.jpg


I have to say though, one of the best combinations of rinse-less wash and a drying aid would be DIY Rinse-less teamed with DIY Ceramic Gloss. Whatever they have done, these two work together so well.

IMG-8479.jpg


IMG-8148.jpg
OK, so I ordered a bottle of the Yellow ONR. Dang it, I can't stop spending money :/
 
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OK, so I ordered a bottle of the Yellow ONR. Dang it, I can't stop spending money :/
Ha ha, I love it!

My biggest gripe with Optimum and Opti-Coat No Rinse is the complete lack of product information provided by Opti-Coat or the people who retail it.

Opti-Coat No Rinse 16 oz. - Opti-Coat (opticoat.com)
Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company

This is there only information provided on Opti-Coat No Rinse-

"Opti-Coat® No Rinse is the fastest, easiest and the most environmentally friendly way to wash any vehicle. Its proprietary polymers bond to the vehicle surfaces and trap dirt to clean without rinsing and leave a very slick and glossy finish that is mar-free. Properly used, you will not scratch the vehicle surface. Washing with Opti-Coat® No Rinse greatly reduces the discharge of pollutants into storm drains, sewers and ground water. Opti-Coat® No Rinse helps both commercial and individual users comply with the discharge guidelines established by the Clean Water Act and the Environmental Protection Agency."

So where in that does it explain how to use the product? Dilution ratio? Suggested or alternative uses? Even the bottle doesn't feature comparative dilution ratio.

So how do they convince someone to buy this product online without this information? How do they expect to sell any? Which is a shame because it's a bloody good product.

For the record, the Opti-Coat No Rinse is mixed at the same dilution ratios as the original -

From the bottle, they suggest 1oz. to 2 gallons of water / 30ml to 7.5lt of water. That works out at 256:1. Using ONR as the guide, this would be the ratios -

Rinse-less Washing - 256:1
Water-less Washing - 128:1
Quick Detailer - 16:1
Clay Lubricant - 64:1
 
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Oh, and by the way, I saw your Youtube videos of your car, it sounds fantastic :) the Touring is one of my favorites has an excellent tone. I went S type but with active I can shut the valves when I need it to calm down.
Not sure what I'll do with my S650 if Ford ever decide to build the thing.

With the Active Exhaust, I like the sound as it is. However, it looks like Ford have had to choke down the noise levels on the Active Exhaust for the Australian market. In which case, I may just swap out the resonator for an X-Pipe and see what that brings to the table.

With my S550, I was originally trying to replicate some of the snap-crackle-pop that my supercharged XR8 has, which is a Coyote based engine. But I sort of went the other way by selecting the Touring. I guess I got the best of both worlds, one 5.0 with a raspy tone, one 5.0 with a deep tone.

 

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IMG_0437.jpeg
Not sure what I'll do with my S650 if Ford ever decide to build the thing.

With the Active Exhaust, I like the sound as it is. However, it looks like Ford have had to choke down the noise levels on the Active Exhaust for the Australian market. In which case, I may just swap out the resonator for an X-Pipe and see what that brings to the table.

With my S550, I was originally trying to replicate some of the snap-crackle-pop that my supercharged XR8 has, which is a Coyote based engine. But I sort of went the other way by selecting the Touring. I guess I got the best of both worlds, one 5.0 with a raspy tone, one 5.0 with a deep tone.

I have quite a few in my local group with Gen 3 S550 and active exhaust and a few did the just an X pipe and a few have done H pipe. The H pipe with the factory active exhaust sounds amazing. In track mode it's very deep and has a great tone. There is another guy with the new 650 with active and it sounds great out of the box to me. An H pipe on it would sound good to me. Not sure how different they will be for you though. I'm just a Borla guy and a provider at their local East Tennessee plant where they manufacture and can pick up locally rather than ship otherwise I probably would have just done an H pipe and been done. Plus the black chrome tips did it for me 😁. I also have adjusted my tips since the picture. The right one was sagging a little and driving me nuts.
 
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Ha ha, I love it!

My biggest gripe with Optimum and Opti-Coat No Rinse is the complete lack of product information provided by Opti-Coat or the people who retail it.

Opti-Coat No Rinse 16 oz. - Opti-Coat (opticoat.com)
Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company

This is there only information provided on Opti-Coat No Rinse-

"Opti-Coat® No Rinse is the fastest, easiest and the most environmentally friendly way to wash any vehicle. Its proprietary polymers bond to the vehicle surfaces and trap dirt to clean without rinsing and leave a very slick and glossy finish that is mar-free. Properly used, you will not scratch the vehicle surface. Washing with Opti-Coat® No Rinse greatly reduces the discharge of pollutants into storm drains, sewers and ground water. Opti-Coat® No Rinse helps both commercial and individual users comply with the discharge guidelines established by the Clean Water Act and the Environmental Protection Agency."

So where in that does it explain how to use the product? Dilution ratio? Suggested or alternative uses? Even the bottle doesn't feature comparative dilution ratio.

So how do they convince someone to buy this product online without this information? How do they expect to sell any? Which is a shame because it's a bloody good product.

For the record, the Opti-Coat No Rinse is mixed at the same dilution ratios as the original -

From the bottle, they suggest 1oz. to 2 gallons of water / 30ml to 7.5lt of water. That works out at 256:1. Using ONR as the guide, this would be the ratios -

Rinse-less Washing - 256:1
Water-less Washing - 128:1
Quick Detailer - 16:1
Clay Lubricant - 64:1
I watched a YouTube video and Levi said the dilution ratio was the same across the board so I should be good. Only problem for me is if I like it there is no larger bottle option. I do think I will stay with Absolute a lot of the time as its excellent and more cost effective. Maybe use opticoat occasionally. I can get it all at the Rag company so it makes it easy to mix and match. I do really like DIY as well. Maybe foam as a pre cleaner with it and then do the opti coat or Absolute in the bucket. Nice to have options 😁. Just got a DIY black Friday sale email this morning. 25% off next week. Ugh. There goes more money.
 
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I watched a YouTube video and Levi said the dilution ratio was the same across the board so I should be good. Only problem for me is if I like it there is no larger bottle option. I do think I will stay with Absolute a lot of the time as its excellent and more cost effective. Maybe use opticoat occasionally. I can get it all at the Rag company so it makes it easy to mix and match. I do really like DIY as well. Maybe foam as a pre cleaner with it and then do the opti coat or Absolute in the bucket. Nice to have options 😁. Just got a DIY black Friday sale email this morning. 25% off next week. Ugh. There goes more money.
Although long, check out this video that shows an alternate rinse-less method. In this case, he is foaming the car, rinsing, then going doing the rinse-less wash. This would be good if you have a dirtier car than you are comfortable with doing a rinse-less wash on.



At which point, you could question why you wouldn't just do a bucket wash anyway. However, this method would be good in summer or winter where extended time in the cold or hot would not desirable, meaning you can finish it off in the garage. in relative cleanliness.
 
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XR6 Brake Upgrade

After having the wheels off the XR6 last month, it spurred me to act on something that has been on the maybe-one-day list.

IMG-9752.jpg


IMG-9783.jpg


IMG-9792.jpg


Falcon’s were never renowned for braking performance. These were fleet, rental, police and taxi cars first, and performance orientated cars a somewhat distant second. I don’t say that to insult the Falcon or its fans, rather it's a realistic assessment of a car that had to sell in both volume and at low cost.

That low cost covers several different viewpoints. Firstly, the car needed to be attractive to fleet buyers, as in the ones who kept the factory volume up. To do that, Ford needed to offer an attractive per vehicle price, at the same time keeping running and repair costs low. In other words, provide a lower total ownership cost than the competitors. This is why Ford gained ground in fleet sales by offering 15,000 km intervals compared to Holden at 10,000 km service intervals. If a fleet kept the cars for 80,000 km before turning them over, each car would need just over 5 services in that time, a Holden would need 8 over the same period.

What does this have to do with brakes? Well, smaller brakes are cheaper to make, and cheaper to service/replace in the field. And this is why a large, powerful RWD sedan weighing beyond 1700 kg (3750 lbs) was fitted with braking hardware smaller than some small hatchbacks.

The standard Falcon braking hardware from the 2002 BA, right through until the very last FGX Falcon made in October 2016, was the same throughout. Even the BA and BA MK II XR6 Turbo and XR8 got this system –

Front – 298 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotors and twin piston sliding calipers.
Rear – 303 mm x 16 mm solid rotors and single piston sliding calipers.

BA-FALCON-DISC-BRAKES.jpg


Ford did offer a much better Premium Brake system as a factory option on all BA and BA MK II XR sedans, the same fitted to the FPV GT, but uptake was low. The limited-edition BA MK II XR8 Devil R and XR8 Enforcer editions also featured those brakes as standard, as were a lot of early BA Falcon press cars. At the time of writing, even after raiding my image collection and scouring the internet, I could find little to no images of this system, be that the black Ford branded or the blue FPV branded examples.

pb101.jpg


Fun fact, if you paid the $2950 for Premium Brakes on a BA XR6/XR6T/XR8, your car went across the road to FPV for them to be fitted, and a matching alloy spare wheel was a mandatory option.

From BF onward, Ford deleted the Premium Brake option, and all XR6 Turbo and XR8 models came with an upgraded factory fit system (the NA XR6 missed out on this, nor was it an option) -

Front – 322 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotor and twin piston sliding calipers.
Rear – 328 mm x 26 mm ventilated rotor and single piston sliding calipers.

From what I can gather, at some point in the BF MK II run, and then onwards, those specs changed again with the rear reverting back to the standard 303 mm solid rotor and smaller caliper. Again, cost control in the lead up to the new model. For FG, this spec was also used on the G6E Turbo and FPV GS models as well.

Front – 322 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotor and twin piston sliding calipers.
Rear - 303 mm x 16 mm solid rotor and single piston sliding calipers.

I should point out that in normal driving conditions, the brakes on my XR6 are fine, but nothing more. The pedal feel is mushy, and the braking ability limited in performance orientated driving. My main gripe being a lack of stamina, you get one or two big hits and that’s it, the pedal gets longer, they start to shudder and become quite noisy. Which is where this upgrade comes in.

To be clear, I wanted Brembo’s, for the performance but also the looks. However, despite Brembo’s being a direct bolt on and fitting within an 18-inch diameter wheel, the front caliper won’t clear the back of the spokes on the XR Snowflake wheels. And I was not prepared to forego those beautiful wheels or pay for a new set of wheels and tires. A Brembo package with new wheels and tires would be near on half the value of the car itself. I like setting fire to cash, but not that much. :giggle:

BF-FPV-BREMBO-6-PISTON-BRAKES.jpg


FPV-FG-F6-WITH-STD-BREMBO-BRAKES.jpg


FPV-FG-MK-II-GT-P-ALLOYS.jpg


2016-Ford-Falcon-XR6-Turbo-Sprint-20-1.jpg


So, this is where I went looking for something that would scratch the braking itch, while being cost effective and without losing those wheels.

A few years ago, you could still buy a PBR upgrade kit, which in effect was a BA GT / BA Premium Brake system with larger/stiffer C5 calipers and larger grooved rotors. In this case, the calipers were painted red rather than blue or black. However, those kits are long gone.

https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11357450
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11452132

PBR101.jpg


I also went looking for an after-market solution, which I found a couple of vendors selling aluminum mono-block 4, 6 or 8 piston calipers that would fit a variety of wheel styles rather than the set list of FPV-specific wheels. But………………I just didn’t love them, too “aftermarket” looking and questionable quality. Brakes aren’t something to take a gamble on in my opinion.

https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/ford-falcon-fg-2008-on-xyz-racing-6-pot-355mm-fixe~17089
https://www.vari.com.au/product/falcon-fg-fgx-gtp-kit/

xyz101.jpg
vari101.jpg


So with that, I settled on a tried-and-true Falcon upgrade, fitting the BF – FG XR6 Turbo brake setup. In this case, the calipers all round remain the same, but the front rotors are increased from 298 mm to 322 mm.

The first requirement for this upgrade is a larger caliper support bracket. This is for the front only, the rear setup stays as is. These are available from the aftermarket or by sourcing a set at a wrecking yard. In my case, I ordered a new set online.

https://www.planetparts.com.au/ford-ba-fg-falcon-front-brake-upgrade-caliper-supp
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292209993994

IMG_9918.jpg


IMG_9922.jpg


The above bracket allows for the fitment of the larger front rotors. But what rotors? Because Ford used the same brake systems from 2002 to 2016 on Falcon and Territory, the availability and choice of spare parts is a huge bonus of these cars. Ford OEM rotors are still available, but I decided to go a few steps beyond that and looked at DBA’s range of aftermarket options. It’s at this point I reached out to Matt from Race Brakes Sydney for some advice.

https://www.racebrakessydney.com.au/
https://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=174

In my case, I skipped the OE-replacement 3000-series and went straight to the 4000 series in T3 spec. While DBA offer cross drilled and slotted 4000 XD and 4000 XS designs, Matt suggested sticking with the 4000 T3 slotted rotor. For the fronts, 322 mm x 28 mm ventilated rotors were chosen, the rears remain the same OE size solid 303 mm x 16 mm rotors.

https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-t3-brake-rotor-dba42107s/
https://dba.com.au/product/rear-4000-series-t3-brake-rotor-dba4505s/

dbat3.png


dbat32.jpg


For pads, Matt recommended Project Mu NS-EP on the front, catering to my low dust/low noise requirements. On the rear, DBA Street Performance pads.

https://www.project-mu.co.jp/en/products/pad_ns-ep.html
https://dba.com.au/product/rear-street-performance-brake-pads-db1376sp/

Initially, I was going to leave it at that, however I decided to change the original 15-year-old rubber brake lines for Goodridge braided stainless steel items made by Matt for the Falcon. This modification should reduce that mushy brake pedal feel.

A few days later, some very HEAVY boxes arrived from Sydney...............

IMG_9950.jpg


So, to recap –

- 24mm larger and upgraded front rotors
- Upgraded front pads
- Upgraded rear rotors
- Upgraded rear pads
- Braided stainless steel brake lines for each corner
- Penrite Super Dot 4 Brake Fluid (The fluid was last changed in 2019 :facepalm:)

With the above, I was hoping incremental improvements in key areas would add up to a more capable whole.

And this is where I changed my direction……………………

Up until then, I had intended to install these new parts myself. The key aspect being everything was a simple bolt on. But messing with the brake fluid, as would be required when changing the brake lines, was not something I was confident doing. So………………….I chickened out and had a local mechanic do the job for me. While I have been getting more and more confident doing mechanical work, messing with such an important safety system on the car didn’t appeal to me. I guess I could have done the rotors and pads myself, then passed the lines onto the mechanic, but I just decided to let them do it all. (Notice the Galaxy Blue AU I XR8 in the background, which was sounding very healthy as I picked up the car. If you think the FG's brakes look and sound underwhelming, those things were even worse with 287mm rotors and single piston calipers all round. :shock: )

IMG-0094.jpg


IMG-0098.jpg


IMG-0108.jpg


IMG-0102.jpg


The main visual giveaway is the green Project Mu pads, otherwise this is a subtle looking upgrade, which suits me just fine. I'm sure if I had the dust shields removed, they would be more noticeable......................

IMG-0106.jpg


IMG-0104.jpg


IMG-0103.jpg


While I haven't had a decent run with the new brakes, on the drive home from the mechanic, the first thing I noticed was the considerably smoother feel under foot and lower noise levels. I was expecting to have to bed them in, but they actually did that for me. I'm looking forward to giving them a decent hit in the future.

Cost BRAKE down –

I’m including this to give a better picture of what this modification costs.

XR6 Turbo Caliper Support Bracket - $69.00 (Normally $170)
4000-Series T3 Front Rotor - $265 each / $530 total
4000-Series T3 Rear Rotor - $200 each / $400 total
Project Mu NS-EP Front Pads - $198 set
DBA Street Performance Pads - $100 set
Goodridge Braided Brake Lines - $298 (set of 4)
Freight - $88.00 (Pickup is available for those in Sydney)
Penrite Super DOT 4 Brake Fluid 500ml – $19.00 each / $38.00 total
Fitment Labor - $385.00

Total Price - $2106

Yes, a lot of money. In terms of brake fluid, that is supposed to be replaced every two years anyway, and the rubber OE lines are now over 15 years old. One a maintenance item, the other preventative maintenance. The OE rotors and pads are virtually brand new, but most 15-year-old cars would have had at least one pad and rotor change in that time.

The side bonus of this upgrade is that I may have found a mechanic I can trust. For many, that is one of the biggest problems a car guy can face, finding someone who is knowledgeable and treats the car like their own. This is a smaller two-person operation, one that I had to wait several weeks to get an appointment. To me, that says a lot.

With thanks to @GT 550 for the advice and words of encouragement.
 
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DFB5.0

DFB5.0

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While the XR6 was getting its new brakes yesterday, it was the Ranger's turn for a wash.

Once clean, it was onto polishing the headlights...............again. :facepalm:

IMG-0093.jpg


Observation, Rupes DA Coarse is brilliant!! In this case, I used it on a Rupes yellow wool in rotary mode, and it cleared the haze that appears on the horizontal surface of the headlights with ease. I followed with Rupes DA Fine on a Rupes yellow foam.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/r...5&_sid=c6c220d15&_ss=r&variant=32113755291737
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/r...llow+wool&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=12194184626265

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/r...6&_sid=c6c220d15&_ss=r&variant=32113755422809
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/r...13&_sid=c6c220d15&_ss=r&variant=8958446338137

In most cases, I would say never polish your headlights unless absolutely necessary. Polishing degrades or removes the UV coating applied at the factory. However, once you start to notice UV damage, it’s too late anyway, so polish away.

I don't know what to do with these lights. Keep polishing them out, have them covered with clear PPF, or replace them entirely. The PPF option is not easy because it seems like no one in this area is interested in applying PPF, an open opportunity it would seem. Replacement would require the removal of the bumper and upper grill. The other option I'm toying with is Optimum Opti-Lens Headlight Coating, but as usual for Optimum, there is not a lot of information provided about how long it lasts.

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/optimum-opti-lens-headlight-coating-5-6-sets-of-headlights

Onto one of Carpro’s latest products, ClarifyPhobic ceramic glass cleaner.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-clarifyphobic?variant=40654591852633

IMG-0086.jpg


The concept here is to provide hydrophobic qualities to the glass, joining a small group of similar products from the likes of Gyeon, Stoner and Optimum. It can be used as a standalone, or in conjunction with an existing glass coating. Although slightly muted, this product has the same banana scent of the regular Clarify.

I probably should hold off judgement until I have tried it further, but I think I can tell very early on if a product is good or bad. But, well....................

While the bottle says “streak free glass cleaner”, you have to work for it! While at a glance, the glass looked fine, under closer inspection or in just the right light, I could see smudging and streaks in isolated sections. Normally, streaking occurs from using the wrong towel or if the glass is too hot. Neither was the case today. And that was on a best-case scenario in that it was used on glass with an existing glass sealant.

I have to say, it's sort of surprising Carpro put their name on this product. I would say that the glass was clearer after using my drying aid on the glass than using ClarifyPhobic. Bead Maker, OG Drying Aid or DIY Ceramic Gloss would do a better job at this.

Today, it was the XR6's turn for a wash.

IMG-0119.jpg


Now that I can actually see the rotors behind the wheel, I now feel inclined to use Atom Mac on this car.

For today, I used up the remainder of a bottle of the delightful GSF in my foam cannon, which was used to clean the wheels and the rest of the car.

IMG-0123.jpg


Bead Maker was the drying aid, for some reason this car really likes that product, it was also used on the door jambs, wheels and engine bay. For the glass, I used the tried and true Stoner's. Tires dressed with OG T/D.

Last job, cleaning the bin with my latest reject, Mirch Blue Candy. I used it once and instantly hated the scent, it's just smells too much like a public restroom cleaner. :frown:

IMG-0127.webp
 

radar

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I’ll be interested in your experience with Bowdens new twisted drying towel.
they claim it’s far superior to Big Green Sucker.

I’m OS right now but pricing a 650 GT manual with no options. Blue is an extra $700 AUD.
Race red and white no extra charge. So I figure if your ordering Race Red GT Manual it’ll be cheapest Mustang available. Shade over $86k driveaway (Melbourne) via Ford Aus build your Mustang website.
Good luck with your order.
Sponsored

 
 








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