tosha
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So I shouldn't stress over 85C CHT for street driving? That means that oil temp is roughly the same and coolant is probably 5 degrees below that. Or is it too cold for street?
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MrBD1348
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Has anyone successfully wired up the diff sensor on a non-pp car? Or is there a guide? I think I found the connector location in workshop manual but haven’t seen anyone mention adding it on here
MrBD1348
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I grabbed a sensor and the connector for the sensor already. I’m also trying to get a little android device or an old jailbroken iPhone to run gauges on CarPlay for the things I want
tosha
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Imo, multimedia screen is too low and to far off the line of sight for track driving. A windshield phone mount is much easier solution and it's where you can see it without taking eyes off the road too much.
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TeeLew
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Not at all. Street driving really doesn't matter. The stresses aren't high enough to be an issue. Hot water and oil is good for emissions. It's just not great for power.
bnightstar
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though getting a car to be cold on the street is not great for gas millage. If you car is cold it will lead to reduced gas millage if is just 1-2 mpg then might be fine but if it's more it might be a costly issue.
MrBD1348
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monitoring. I’d much rather know that I’m about to cross a temperature threshold and cool down for a lap.
I truly agree with you but my personal preference is just not having anything directly in line of sight just because it would serve as more of a distraction. Again just my preference. Edit: on that note - any one suggest a GoPro mount for the headrest or rear of the car that would be stable but out of my line of sight?
Im about to start doing HPDE so with zero experience (other than being a complete nerd racing with VR racing sims during lockdown) I really want to focus on technique but have the things I need available if necessary
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TeeLew
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I think you'd have to run it quite cold to see a real difference in consumption just due to thermal efficiency, but you're correct, it's there. It might be a little difficult to measure the change from the stock thermostat to, say, a 160*F version (what I run). It is important that you run the car hot enough that the ECU doesn't think it's constantly in a warm-up condition. That would be very bad for consumption.
GTP
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The car goes into limp mode when the diff temp exceeds 290F.
Without or without the sensor, you should heat wrap your exhaust around the diff, and run 140 weight gear oil. That keeps my diff below 265 on track days.
I change diff oil about every 6 track days.
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Biggsy
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TeeLew
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It's a relatively easy fix. These guys kinda killed it with the finned rear cover.
https://www.fluix.de/product-page/differential-oil-cooler-cover
___________
There is a "Rule of Nines" concerning automotive performance parts "Effective cost." An "Effective cost" is the number which is reported to the CFO of the household, who is _always_ the same person. These purchases come in logarithmic increments. They are $9, $90, $900, etc.
Maintenance items cost $9. Small-medium performance parts are $90. Large parts are $900. Entire cars are $9000.
The rear cover is small enough to count as a $90 entry on the report to the CFO. I think I can pull it off.
https://www.fluix.de/product-page/differential-oil-cooler-cover
___________
There is a "Rule of Nines" concerning automotive performance parts "Effective cost." An "Effective cost" is the number which is reported to the CFO of the household, who is _always_ the same person. These purchases come in logarithmic increments. They are $9, $90, $900, etc.
Maintenance items cost $9. Small-medium performance parts are $90. Large parts are $900. Entire cars are $9000.
The rear cover is small enough to count as a $90 entry on the report to the CFO. I think I can pull it off.
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TeeLew
Well-Known Member
Ya, they make one. I bet it's good, too. This is just the one which has presented cooling numbers. Worst case scenario, all you have to make a little stationary ducting. It's a hell of a lot less work than a entire pump and cooler project. It likely won't be as effective as a pump/cooler, but I bet it's effective enough for anyone under 600 HP or not on slicks will no longer have temps high enough to worry about rear end failure.
EDIT: I just looked at the MMR cover. It's fins aren't extended enough to properly cool, IMO. FWIW, I've had 3 or 4 Fluids and a couple Heat Transfer courses. It's an opinion, but not completely uninformed.
EDIT: I just looked at the MMR cover. It's fins aren't extended enough to properly cool, IMO. FWIW, I've had 3 or 4 Fluids and a couple Heat Transfer courses. It's an opinion, but not completely uninformed.
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bnightstar
Well-Known Member
What I don't get is the Diff in our cars is not exactly an expensive part even if it fail ones a few seasons it might be cheaper than doing all of the cooling around it to make it fail few seasons latter anyway ? Besides spinning in a barrier what is the risk of a diff failure ?
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