Best 21 GT intake manifold upgrades

[Sotty1]

Smart move sticking with the stocker, porting is a scam. There’s not enough plastic material thick enough for port reshaping. All your paying for is a slight port surface Ra increase. It’s a big money maker for the porting guys.
The only option that might work is the Mach 1 manifold I repost, you’d probably be the first M6G guy to try that combo on the GEN3 GT 5.0 other than the Factory.

Why VMP of all tuners ?

The mach1/ bullit is a GT350 intake and Cai
And. Vmp because theeeeey. Are tusrltworthy and basically mustang gods

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[EFI]

when it comes to producing low end torque and power. That’s where it’s at when dealing with streetlight to streetlight runs.

Transmission, suspension and tires play a much more important role in "streetlight to streetlight" races than a few lb of torque across the rev range,

A 10R car with a 350 manifold will blow away an MT82 car with an F150 or 18 manifold even though the latter may make a 10-15lbs more of torque.

For puttin' around and light acceleration around the street, for sure having more torque is desired. Once you start getting to racing, and especially with the newer high gear count automatics, it quickly starts to not matter much.

 

[GregO]

The mach1/ bullit is a GT350 intake and Cai
And. Vmp because theeeeey. Are tusrltworthy and basically mustang gods

I’m aware the Mach/Bullitt manifold and CAI is the same geometry and airflow configuration as the GT350, it’s the IMRC electrical connections and plumbing that’s not exactly the same.

 

[AZlb5.0]

Transmission, suspension and tires play a much more important role in "streetlight to streetlight" races than a few lb of torque across the rev range,

A 10R car with a 350 manifold will blow away an MT82 car with an F150 or 18 manifold even though the latter may make a 10-15lbs more of torque.

For puttin' around and light acceleration around the street, for sure having more torque is desired. Once you start getting to racing, and especially with the newer high gear count automatics, it quickly starts to not matter much.

I can have all that but with no low end torque to make it all work I have a really well set up car that won’t make any power down low. Don’t get me wrong I’ve had fast auto before nothing like these new 10speed autos and yes autos are the way to go when you want dependable off the line performance but que you have nothing feeding all of that suspension transmission and tires, then you have a car getting beat off the line by cars with low end torque. Why you want your torque to start coming in between 2800-3200 rpm’s. Again just my experience.

I had a nitrous set up Vette where it would hit at 3.2K rpm’s @ wot that ran till 6,8K rpm’s shutting off shifting at 7K rpms with a 7.2K redline. A 10 sec pushrod dinosaur and In street light to street light there weren’t many cars out there beating me.Why? Because everything that I had set up was there to work with the torque hit at just over 3K rpms.

 

[Jstang23]

I can have all that but with no low end torque to make it all work I have a really well set up car that won’t make any power down low. Don’t get me wrong I’ve had fast auto before nothing like these new 10speed autos and yes autos are the way to go when you want dependable off the line performance but que you have nothing feeding all of that suspension transmission and tires, then you have a car getting beat off the line by cars with low end torque. Why you want your torque to start coming in between 2800-3200 rpm’s. Again just my experience.

I had a nitrous set up Vette where it would hit at 3.2K rpm’s @ wot that ran till 6,8K rpm’s shutting off shifting at 7K rpms with a 7.2K redline. A 10 sec pushrod dinosaur and In street light to street light there weren’t many cars out there beating me.Why? Because everything that I had set up was there to work with the torque hit at just over 3K rpms.

I agree, to have a truly fast car you do have to have everything. Sure 10-20 low end tq is great but with poor tires or suspension you're not going to notice the difference in power. Although I would say if you have a well set up suspension system and good tires and a reliable/repeatable launch you'll beat a lot of cars that have more power simply because they can't put it to the ground.

But totally agree, you've got to have everything working together to see the benefit of the modifications!

 

[Jstang23]

Also heard back from the engineer about the true redline of the coyote. He didn't know of the top of his head why the 350 manifold is different on the Bullit and the Mach 1 but he's going to check.

"The coyote is definitely not made to rev past 8000 rpms. The crankshaft is not balanced enough to rev that high. Not to mention the pistons, rings, and rods will start to fail due to the increased velocity. Sure, there's always that one group of people that tune out the rev limiter and go to 8000 on occasion. However, I promise their internals will start to develop weak spots and hairline cracks, eventually resulting in premature engine failure. If you want to safely rev to 8k and further at least look for forged crankshaft, pistons, camshafts. In addition, you'll most likely need a HV oil pump to keep all those new forged parts well oiled. I think you would be okay with the stock bearings, assuming they remain oiled and were on good shape to begin with. Then, consider all the other goodies like gaskets, studs, better oil, more cooling, etc."

"Even the Voodoo from the Gt350 basically shakes itself to death. Ford has already said we wouldn't be building a bespoke engine like that again anytime soon."

Looks like those to rev to 8k won't be revving that high for very long, lol! Or if they really want to have to pretty heavily modify it to safely run that high.

 

[EFI]

If you want to safely rev to 8k and further at least look for forged crankshaft, pistons, camshafts.

Interesting that he didn't also mention rods and/or rod bolts. I know the Gen 2+ rods are beefy but didn't expect them to be 8000+ rpm reliably beefy.

 

[Jstang23]

Interesting that he didn't also mention rods and/or rod bolts. I know the Gen 2+ rods are beefy but didn't expect them to be 8000+ rpm reliably beefy.

I found that interesting too. I think he was just implying that even the major components would start to fail?? Not sure. Also he did say at least, so maybe there is more you would have to replace. I just asked can they rev to 8k and if not what would fail.

 

[K4fxd]

FRPP auto tune has it shifting at 7600

 

[GregO]

FRPP auto tune has it shifting at 7600

If it shifts at 7600 what is the soft and hard Rev limits set at ?

 

[GregO]

If you want to safely rev to 8k and further at least look for forged crankshaft

I thought the Coyote crankshaft was a forged unit ?
I know the rods are powdered metal……
Tell the Ford Parts Cheaping Dept. thanks for the crappy powdered metal rods and OPG…… LOL

BTW, be sure to extend a M6G Thank you to the engineer you’re emailing.

 

[K4fxd]

If it shifts at 7600 what is the soft and hard Rev limits set at ?

7500 is the soft limit and 7700 is the hard limit. This is what I find on a quick look. FRPP tune does not have as many tables as my OS.

7600 1st gear shift in sport mode 7400 shift in 2nd and 3rd.

 

[GregO]

7500 is the soft limit and 7700 is the hard limit. This is what I find on a quick look. FRPP tune does not have as many tables as my OS.

7600 1st gear shift in sport mode 7400 shift in 2nd and 3rd.

Wonder at what RPM valve float starts, GEN2&3 ?

 

[Jstang23]

I thought the Coyote crankshaft was a forged unit ?
I know the rods are powdered metal……
Tell the Ford Parts Cheaping Dept. thanks for the crappy powdered metal rods and OPG…… LOL

BTW, be sure to extend a M6G Thank you to the engineer you’re emailing.

The crankshaft is forged you are correct! But I believe he is saying a forged crankshaft with better balance tolerances. I'd bet the crankshaft after reaching 8k rpms would start to shake so bad it'll throw a bearing or simply crack.

 

[K4fxd]

I'd bet the crankshaft after reaching 8k rpms would start to shake so bad it'll throw a bearing or simply crack.

I've had mine over 8K. It is smooth as it is at 7K. Pretty damn smooth. I only reved it that high to see where the 350 mani falls off and I shift mine at 7500. I had it to 8300 according to the log and it fell off a bit but did not nose over. Still at .89 air load.

I'd like to have the viscus balancer. I think shifting at 78 or 7900 would be ideal.

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