Winterize Question - Parking Brake, Leave in Gear or Wheel Chocks?

[DaveR.PP2]

In my now several decades of storing cars over winter months generally neutral or in gear doesn't really matter much. Common sense should prevail as to the structure and relative physical environment the car will be exposed to. Duration is also important. Starting the car periodically and ability to move drivetrain helps seals. Covering the car is usually best. Clean, fresh oil sitting in the engine and diff is better than old oil but I'm sure we get it.

I've had multiyear storage on a couple of my cars where they sat with flats, brake shoes seized to drums and even clutches seized to flywheel. And moisture from even a reasonably clean concrete floor in a sealed area can cause surface rust on the underside. Moving air helps reduce corrosion but if you're storing for 3 or 4 months and you can periodically access/start keep battery up the battle becomes less of an issue.

Lastly but always a potential issue are mice and other rodents. Traps that you can constantly check windows up and reducing open access to just about everything is the biggest challenge. I found that my 80 gallon air compressor located within 3 feet of the front of the car even though mounted on floor with insulators is a good deterrent because mice hate vibrations and I think even the noise. I use those electronic high frequency devices plugged into wall outlets and on extension cords with not always but generally good results. Newer cars with soy extract in the wire insulation is candy to these rodent fiends. I haven't had any issues to date.

Anyway, I ramble on.

Sponsored

 

[RagmopInKona]

Not if it's outside. Dust blowing underneath, strap contact points, and the cover flapping in the wind will do a real number on the paint over the course of months.

I because of the glass front and rear and side, and if you get snow you have to cover it.
The snow /ice getting between the body and the edge of the rear and front glass, is no beano, and if you need to get into the car, the automatic side glass wants to open 1/4" as you go for the door handle, not ideal if there is snow/ice at the body/seam wipe of the glass.
I guess if you get a lot of high winds, it might be different, or don't get snow/ice.
As for the tie down strap, I run those through a plumping copper pipe foam insulation so the olny thing touching the car's body at all, if it touches it the foam tube insulation.

 

[VitalZ]

Why do you guys recommend a full tank of gas for winter storage?

 

[Skye]

Why do you guys recommend a full tank of gas for winter storage?

The intensity of the fuel and the full volume in the tank help prevent in the absorption of water.

 

[TrackMustang]

Move south

 

[Zooks527]

Why do you guys recommend a full tank of gas for winter storage?

I minimizes the ratio of the surface area exposed to air against the volume of fuel in the tank, reducing the possible amounts of water absorbing into the fuel and volatile components evaporating.

Make sure you add a fuel stabilizer.

 

[Yorkshire_OH]

Which fuel stabilizer do people suggest and I saw someone mention the flat spot protector ramps. what are peoples opinion on those. I guess they'd be useful instead of chocks as well... assuming your garage floor isn't a cliff.

 

[Skye]

Which fuel stabilizer do people suggest and I saw someone mention the flat spot protector ramps. what are peoples opinion on those. I guess they'd be useful instead of chocks as well... assuming your garage floor isn't a cliff.

I use Stabil, but I'm sure there are other brands which as just as good and well received. Whichever you do use, once in the car, drive for 10-15 minutes, to ensure everything mixes well and it makes it through the system.

There are a handful of threads I've read here on flat-spot preventers. Most people do not use them. Some do. I won't be using them. I've raised my tire pressure to 40 psi / 2.75 bar. I do expect to have some flat spots in the Spring, with them working themselves out after a few miles of driving. When I was studying the topic at Michelin, I read several specific comments about long-term storage in hot climates with humidity; these locations do not serve tires well. Cold climates? I'm sure there are some unique applications or examples. Otherwise, any flat spotting should be temporary.

 

[Yorkshire_OH]

I use Stabil, but I'm sure there are other brands which as just as good and well received. Whichever you do use, once in the car, drive for 10-15 minutes, to ensure everything mixes well and it makes it through the system.

There are a handful of threads I've read here on flat-spot preventers. Most people do not use them. Some do. I won't be using them. I've raised my tire pressure to 40 psi / 2.75 bar. I do expect to have some flat spots in the Spring, with them working themselves out after a few miles of driving. When I was studying the topic at Michelin, I read several specific comments about long-term storage in hot climates with humidity; these locations do not serve tires well. Cold climates? I'm sure there are some unique applications or examples. Otherwise, any flat spotting should be temporary.

Thanks for the info!
temporary tags ran out on Wednesday so no driving it until I can sort the plates. I was told I'd be sent something from Ohio BMV but nothing has come through now I'm wondering if I've misinterpreted what was going to happen. New to the USA and this is my first car purchase and no-one really explains these things haha but as of tomorrow afternoon snow might arrive here in Cleveland so I'm not planning on going far in it until April!

 

[Hack]

I use fuel stabilizer and I park it in gear with the parking brake on. It isn't an ancient car and it doesn't see a lot of moisture, so I don't worry about the parking brake seizing. I also don't engage the brake with a lot of force. Just a couple clicks is plenty to hold it in place on my garage floor. I don't cover the car, that just encourages mice to move in. I have a bucket mouse trap next to it and two packets of fresh cab rodent repellant inside. The CTEK trickle charger is hooked up to it as well.

 

[Skye]

temporary tags ran out on Wednesday so no driving it until I can sort the plates. I was told I'd be sent something from Ohio BMV but nothing has come through now I'm wondering if I've misinterpreted what was going to happen

I'd first check this issue with the dealer you purchased the car from.

When a new car is produced, no state agency knows it exists. Once purchased, the selling dealer will gift the buyer temporary tags, while advising state agencies of the car and its sale.

After a time between the dealer and state agencies, the buyer should receive documentation allowing them to register the car and get permanent plates. I received the documentation from the dealer I purchased from; they called me after about 30 days. I then returned to the dealer, signed for those new docs, later registered the car at the DMV and got my permanent plates.

Temp plates run out? This should not be a problem. Go back to the dealer you purchased from and get a new set of tags, an extension. In CO, it's something like an additional 60 days. While there, ask them what's up with your documentation, if they've completed their process with the state.

 

[Yorkshire_OH]

I'd first check this issue with the dealer you purchased the car from.

When a new car is produced, no state agency knows it exists. Once purchased, the selling dealer will gift the buyer temporary tags, while advising state agencies of the car and its sale.

After a time between the dealer and state agencies, the buyer should receive documentation allowing them to register the car and get permanent plates. I received the documentation from the dealer I purchased from; they called me after about 30 days. I then returned to the dealer, signed for those new docs, later registered the car at the DMV and got my permanent plates.

Temp plates run out? This should not be a problem. Go back to the dealer you purchased from and get a new set of tags, an extension. In CO, it's something like an additional 60 days. While there, ask them what's up with your documentation, if they've completed their process with the state.

should be sorted now, memorandum of title being resent from dealer.

To keep this on the winterizing topic...

 

[Balr14]

I think a lot depends on how long and where you are storing it. I live in the same climate as you and have an unheated garage with a pretty level floor. Most of the time, I have driven older German imports, which tend to be fussier and get stored longer. So, in general, I inflate the tires to about 5lbs more than normal, use a battery tender and leave the car in gear. I have not found my Mustang requires any special attention. Battery drain is extremely low and it will go several months without a battery tender.

 

[khlifhummar]

Using wheelchocks is a great way to go for winterizing. I tend to leave the car in gear, but I also like adding extra security with chocks just to be safe. I do this because sometimes parking brakes can freeze up in freezing weather, especially if there's moisture, and that can make things a pain come springtime. Using chocks adds an extra layer of protection, and it's super easy to do. Knowing everything is locked in place is just a bit more peace of mind.

 

[Rock&Roll]

I start it up and take her for a ride 2-3 times a month. It don't snow a lot and when it does I just wait a few days after and then drive the car on main roads where the salt is gone already.

Sponsored