look at clutch line

[cerbomark]

Well, mine isn't leaking, but man it sure is backed off a lot. The line is quite tight and I'm not pushing on it any harder to scoot it up. I'm going to go ahead and just buy the Steeda kit.

It doesn't t look like it is supposed to be all the way. The hose end tapers and probably stops right where it is supposed to and clips secure.

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[ice445]

It doesn't t look like it is supposed to be all the way. The hose end tapers and probably stops right where it is supposed to and clips secure.

It has a rubber gasket under the cone seat of the plastic hose that does the actual sealing. I'm not sure why, but in my case both ends of my hose showed residue/evidence of leaking at one point or another. Possibly the two materials are expanding at different rates in certain conditions and letting fluid past. Or it's just bad luck for me, lol (besides the zip tie making it worse). Stuff happens. Either way I fixed it. It's a pain for sure given the limited room to work, but both ends fit very snug and won't move on their own anymore.

 

[cerbomark]

did you have to bleed anything? Did fluid come out the one end ? How do the OEM ones come off? Is that the same size hose as OEM? Care to explain how you did this? Looks much better. Thanks.

 

[Ratical]

did you have to bleed anything? Did fluid come out the one end ? How do the OEM ones come off? Is that the same size hose as OEM? Care to explain how you did this? Looks much better. Thanks.

You will not have to bleed anything, as this is prior to the master cylinder. I suctioned all my fluid from the reservoir so I would not have to worry about it spilling out. Just refill it after installing new hose.

 

[ice445]

did you have to bleed anything? Did fluid come out the one end ? How do the OEM ones come off? Is that the same size hose as OEM? Care to explain how you did this? Looks much better. Thanks.

No bleeding necessary. It's a gravity feed line so I left the cap on the reservoir tight when I pulled it off and nothing drained out of the res, just whats in the hose. The OEM ones just pull straight off, but it takes quite a bit of force so you have to pull straight. Once I was done I just opened and closed the cap to let the fluid run down, started the car and used the clutch and brake a few times. I can link you the hose I ordered, it's nothing super special though. Just has to be 5/16 epdm. The Tilton hose is extremely firm compared to the steeda line so its harder to put on.

For whatever reason my brake reservoir was overfilled from factory to almost the level of the cap itself...

 

[swoop1156]

I looked at mine today and it was looking like it was barely hanging on too. I shoved it up on there a bit more - I'll check it in a few miles and see what happens.

 

[Coastal-Mach]

Like others, I checked mine today. It looked like it is barely hanging on and when I tried to push it up further a bubble of fluid came out.

Looks like an aftermarket piece is in my future. How bad is the install for a replacement piece? Tips and advice welcomed, thanks in advance.

 

[cerbomark]

Like others, I checked mine today. It looked like it is barely hanging on and when I tried to push it up further a bubble of fluid came out.

Looks like an aftermarket piece is in my future. How bad is the install for a replacement piece? Tips and advice welcomed, thanks in advance.

Look like a simple 15 min job. I broke down and ordered the steeds kit today. Remember it has to be hose specifically for brake fluid because brake fluid will swell up a regular rubber hose. I went to 2 parts stores and no one carried it. If you order steedas there is an option for USPS which is about 1/2 the shipping cost. I don t want to have to keep looking and checking this line plus the bottom connection being a little dirty I am wondering about air and clutch feel which some have reported. Steeda has a video showing the replacement, even if you don t buy from them check it out.

 

[Coastal-Mach]

Look like a simple 15 min job. I broke down and ordered the steeds kit today. Remember it has to be hose specifically for brake fluid because brake fluid will swell up a regular rubber hose. I went to 2 parts stores and no one carried it. If you order steedas there is an option for USPS which is about 1/2 the shipping cost. I don t want to have to keep looking and checking this line plus the bottom connection being a little dirty I am wondering about air and clutch feel which some have reported. Steeda has a video showing the replacement, even if you don t buy from them check it out.

Thanks Mark, did you go with the SS Kit?

 

[ice445]

Thanks Mark, did you go with the SS Kit?

That's only for the clutch line. The feed line in question is rubber. It's confusing but there's a master reservoir, then this plastic hose that goes to the master clutch cylinder, and from there the clutch line goes down to the slave cylinder in the transmission.

 

[Coastal-Mach]

That's only for the clutch line. The feed line in question is rubber. It's confusing but there's a master reservoir, then this plastic hose that goes to the master clutch cylinder, and from there the clutch line goes down to the slave cylinder in the transmission.

After doing more looking I realized that. One of those moments where I put the cart in front of the horse. Thanks for all the information you have provided on this subject.

 

[JoeSpeed]

Leave it alone or replace. Steeda has a pricey option for everything https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-7035-s550-clutch-hose.
You can source the parts yourself much cheaper.

Steeda

im hoping they come out with one for the Bronco on a side note, just because

 

[ice445]

After doing more looking I realized that. One of those moments where I put the cart in front of the horse. Thanks for all the information you have provided on this subject.

No problem. For what it's worth, I think my case was somewhat extreme, since now after driving the car for a while my clutch feels far more consistent. The bite point used to somewhat shift around before, and it felt kinda random. It was never a problem per se, but it made driving the car in some situations very frustrating. I can't really work out in my head why this would be the case given how far down the clutch hydraulic circuit is, but if I had to guess it might have something to do with thermal expansion and air temporarily interrupting that process. Based on this new finding, if you have evidence of a leak, change the line. If you do not, leave it alone

Make sure to get a light down below the booster, since the other end of my line was leaking too it left a yellow puddle below it over time. There was also residue on the nipple that had captured some dirt.

 

[Coastal-Mach]

No problem. For what it's worth, I think my case was somewhat extreme, since now after driving the car for a while my clutch feels far more consistent. The bite point used to somewhat shift around before, and it felt kinda random. It was never a problem per se, but it made driving the car in some situations very frustrating. I can't really work out in my head why this would be the case given how far down the clutch hydraulic circuit is, but if I had to guess it might have something to do with thermal expansion and air temporarily interrupting that process. Based on this new finding, if you have evidence of a leak, change the line. If you do not, leave it alone

Make sure to get a light down below the booster, since the other end of my line was leaking too it left a yellow puddle below it over time. There was also residue on the nipple that had captured some dirt.

When I checked it yesterday a fluid bubble did show itself. Their is no play on the line at all, almost stretched right. Steeda will be getting another this month.

I think I’m going to add the SS clutch line as well. Damn OCD
Thanks again.

 

[Prodigal]

Mine isn’t leaking but it’s position sure doesn’t instill confidence. I pushed it on a bit but it settled back in the same position. I think I’ll order the replacement just for piece of mind.

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