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DFB5.0

DFB5.0

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@DFB5.0
Nice write up man.

Quick question. I've used the Car Pro Iron X on the truck in the past and almost died a couple of times, (LOL) from the fumes. How does that P&S Iron Buster compare in stench? lol
I "assume" it works just as well as the Car Pro Iron X.
Thanks.
Iron removers are horrible to use, I hate them! They all smell terrible, some worse than others. Carpro and others scent them in an attempt to cover it up with limited success. The only one that I have found to be halfway acceptable is NV Purge.

They all work very similar, so go with what’s cheapest at the time.
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Iron removers are horrible to use, I hate them! They all smell terrible, some worse than others. Carpro and others scent them in an attempt to cover it up with limited success. The only one that I have found to be halfway acceptable is NV Purge.

They all work very similar, so go with what’s cheapest at the time.
Yeah, they are seriously deadly smelling. lol

Thanks man. I appreciate it.
 
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Yeah, they are seriously deadly smelling. lol

Thanks man. I appreciate it.
I have a very strong sense of smell, so iron removers tend to get my nose more than others. I find that after using one of these products they tend to re-appear when I jump in the shower at the end of the day, they just seem to stick to your skin.

They are a necessary evil though. Iron removers just seem to be able to cut into badly maintained wheels like no other. These wheels are on the VW Crafter work van, they have the usual Euro brake dust accumulation on them, Iron X smashed it off in less than 5 minutes of soaking and some light agitation.

The "LS" part of the name is supposed to stand for "Lemon Scent".............all that does is make it smell worse in my opinion. Carpro also do a cherry scented version.

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Two of the least offensive iron removers I have used are NV Purge and NV Purify. The scent profile used in both of these products is the same and does seem to cover up the sulfur smell more than others.

Purge is the wheel cleaner, this is the closest I have come to a touchless wheel cleaner (I never do that though). On filthy wheels, this is a product that is best used as a pre-soak, applied to the wheel dry to get the strongest reaction. Hose it off and then either re-apply or switch to Brake Buster for the contact wash.

Purge | Reactive Wheel Cleaner – Nv Car Care USA (USA)
Nv PURGE | Reactive Wheel Cleaner | Waxit – Waxit Car Care (Australia)

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This is the same wheel after rinsing, prior to a contact wash -

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Purify is a iron removing clay lubricant, helping to combine the two decontamination steps into one. Apply to the car after a wash and while still wet, allow to dwell for a few minutes before starting the clay process. Rinse thoroughly after use.

Purify | Advanced Clay Lubricant – Nv Car Care USA (USA)
Nv PURIFY | Advanced Clay Lubricant | Waxit – Waxit Car Care (Australia)

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The "LS" part of the name is supposed to stand for "Lemon Scent".............all that does is make it smell worse in my opinion.
The olfactory part of my brain imagined a lemon scented iron remover before I could stop it 🤮

Ohhhhh thats bad 😝
 

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Purify is a iron removing clay lubricant, helping to combine the two decontamination steps into one. Apply to the car after a wash and while still wet, allow to dwell for a few minutes before starting the clay process. Rinse thoroughly after use.

Purify | Advanced Clay Lubricant – Nv Car Care USA (USA)
Nv PURIFY | Advanced Clay Lubricant | Waxit – Waxit Car Care (Australia)

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Another awesome write up.
Thanks man. I already did a clay on the truck, but still haven't applied any sealant or wax on it. LOL Sad, I know, but time is not on my side. I like to do it all in one or two days, but can't happen any more. I like the clay and Iron X all in one. I use a clay towel when I do the clay on the truck.

Thanks again.
 

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Not even a chilly winter blast and a top of 10.1 deg C / 50 deg F could stop me from getting my fix this week. The Mustang was getting washed rain, hail or shine!

Even though I have ordered a replacement 1/4 MTM fitting for my new foam cannon, I decided to fit the crappy one it came with and found it actually fits the OG Mosmatic gun better than the MTM SGS 28 I was trial fitting it with. Using GSF today.

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And yes, it did need washing, I promise. It's been sitting in the garage uncovered for a few weeks now with some smushed bugs and was rained on last week. I only had time for a superficial rinse and blow dry to get it through till today.

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My trial of tire dressings on these PS4S's continues, the Carpro Perl stripped with Wise Guy.

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Wheels cleaned with GSF.

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New foam gun performed flawlessly, no leaks.

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Do you think I used enough? Geepers! I love this soap!

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After the wash, I wasted no time in applying some Hyde's to the rotors.

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Continuing the OG theme, using OG Drying Aid again today, mainly so I can use that bottle! I somehow don't think Matt would approve of the pink towels though.............down with gender norms I say! :lol

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It was then onto another new product, Koch Chemie Motorplast.

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Motorplast was designed to work on wet or dry surfaces and is another take on a self leveling dressing, think Meguiars Hyper Dressing. I don't like hosing my engine bay with water so simply misted water from a sprayer onto the plastic parts, then followed up with the product.

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At this stage, you can simply close the bonnet and walk away, the product leveling down as it dries. I'm impatient though and decided to level it myself with a engine bay towel and compressed air. This also allowed me to clean up any overspray on the painted surfaces. Once dry, the coated surfaces are said to prevent dirt/dust from sticking. We shall see.

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Onto the interior, all that was needed was quick vac and wipe over, returning to Gyeon Interior Detailer today. I also gave the seats a quick wipe with NV Nourish.

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Not mentioned earlier, I also used P21S Polishing Soap on the exhaust tips in preparation for some Dr. Beasley's Metal Coat.

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After now trying OG Tire Dressing and Carpro Perl on these tires, I wanted to see what my current favorite could do, NV Onyx.

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Firstly though, a little bit of info on these tires. I have read over the last couple of days that the PS4S are a bit sensitive to dressings. If you look closely at them, the undressed surface has a waxier finish than a lot of other tires. As such, they seem to unevenly absorb more of the dressing, leading to a patchy finish.

The Dunlop Sport Maxx on the XR8 and Dunlop Sport Maxx RT on the Jaguar are the complete opposite. They have a less porous and shinier sidewall that seems to allow a more consistent dressing, much like the OE Pirelli's. OG Tire Dressing works really well on these tires. Perl and Onyx seem to work better on the PS4S, they also really benefit from a knock-down wipe after 5 minutes to level them down to a consistent finish.

I applied the product using a new brush I am trying.

Maxshine Ultra Soft Detailing Brush (detailingshed.com.au)
Maxshine Ultra Soft Detailing Brush — MaxShine (maxshineusa.com)

I have had two of these sitting in the cabinet for over a month now, mainly because I kept forgetting about them. These brushes were designed for interior cleaning, but taking inspiration from OG using the new Detail Factory Curveball brush on tires, I thought these would offer a similar effect until those Curveball's are offered locally. And.........WOW!

I applied some Onyx directly to the bristles, dabbed over the sidewall and then went about working it in.

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Also good for getting the large lip PS4S's have without smearing onto the freshly cleaned wheels.

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The high density of soft bristles makes this tiny little brush so, so good at this task. Probably best suited to low profile tires though, where it can be used very precisely.

After a knockdown, I'm very happy with the appearance.

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And NO RUST!!

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I also did an express wash of the Ranger, mainly for something to do. The polar blast is supposed to hang around all week. :frown:
 

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I don't like hosing my engine bay with water so simply misted water from a sprayer onto the plastic parts, then followed up with the product.

Once dry, the coated surfaces are said to prevent dirt/dust from sticking. We shall see.
@DFB5.0 how are you removing the dust/dirt (the latter admittedly being unlikely in your engine bay) with just water spray? A wipe over with microfiber?

Ah yes, that will be interesting.

It's been sitting in the garage uncovered for a few weeks now with some smushed bugs
I may be missing something. How are you getting to bug smushing speeds in your garage, and why? I guess it's one way to remove bug spray from the environment :shock:
 
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@DFB5.0 how are you removing the dust/dirt (the latter admittedly being unlikely in your engine bay) with just water spray? A wipe over with microfiber?

Ah yes, that will be interesting.



I may be missing something. How are you getting to bug smushing speeds in your garage, and why? I guess it's one way to remove bug spray from the environment :shock:
After each wash and after drying the exterior and door jambs, I lift the hood and dry up any remaining water in and around the engine bay, using a dedicated engine bay towel and a drying aid. This means I'm not really "cleaning" the engine bay, rather maintaining a state of cleanliness. Like anything, keeping on top of it means not having to work so hard and negates the need for more invasive cleaning.

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So as such, applying Motorplast today did not involve any cleaning. The benefit of Motorplast and Hyper Dressing is that you can clean your engine bay and while still wet, mist the product all over the engine bay and walk away rather than having to dry everything off first.

I post this video a lot, but it's a really good illustration on how to detail an engine bay, clean to begin with or otherwise.

(12) Dialing In My New Shelby GT350: E3 - Cleaning Engine Bay w/ Meguiar's D170 Hyper Dressing - YouTube

As for getting bugs in splatter in the garage, well, I'm not that skilled! :giggle:

For clarification, I had been doing some daily driving and a bit back road driving in Mustang over the last month. I only get one day a week off so my time is limited, instead I have been attending to other cars, some earning me some money, so they have taken priority. Today was all about the Mustang.
 

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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
 

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Any thoughts on how to remove some hard water marks from the car? I recently washed my car and even though I have a water softener and do my best to keep the car completely wet before I blow dry it some water dried and left calcium marks. The car is fully wrapped and ceramic coated (both Xpel products) so I want to preserve the integrity of the products. Thanks for any help!!
 

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Maybe try White Vinegar and water, then CarPro Spotless but not sure if Spotless is ok for coatings. As recommended by DFB :like:
 
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Any thoughts on how to remove some hard water marks from the car? I recently washed my car and even though I have a water softener and do my best to keep the car completely wet before I blow dry it some water dried and left calcium marks. The car is fully wrapped and ceramic coated (both Xpel products) so I want to preserve the integrity of the products. Thanks for any help!!
Maybe try White Vinegar and water, then CarPro Spotless but not sure if Spotless is ok for coatings. As recommended by DFB :like:
Spotless was designed to work with coatings. Ideally, you would use the same brand water spot remover as your coating, but they work on similar principles. Also worth googling the product you end up choosing to see the correct method of use as some have different application types.
 
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Another day, another delivery.

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This order from Detailing Shed was really only for the MTM 1/4 fitting for my new foam cannon, but you have to make the shipping worthwhile. :giggle:

These fittings are stainless steel, it being delivered pre-taped was a nice touch also.

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The brush I intend to try as a way of dressing larger SUV and 4WD tires, after seeing that method used a few times on another forum. This method is best served with a liquid dressing like diluted Perl, Duragloss 253 and Autoglym Instant Tyre Dressing.

Speaking of tire dressings, I just can't have enough! Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel is my latest to try.

Optimum have three different tyre products. 'Tire Shine' is a wet-look product that doesn't really interest me, same for their 'Tire Coating & Protectant' which is a long term product with a 6 month durability claim. The way I like to play around with tyre dressings makes that product redundant for me. The water-based Opti-Bond Gel is more up my alley, although it's said to be a high gloss product, so I'm keen to see what it looks like.

And Koch Chemie Nano Magic Shampoo is basically a fancy version of a wash-n-wax. This product leaves behind some protection after a wash, improving gloss and helping to maintain existing sealants.

And after laundering a new set of glass towels, The Rag Company logo embossed in the corner of these Dry-Me-A-River towels is a nice touch.

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Spotless was designed to work with coatings. Ideally, you would use the same brand water spot remover as your coating, but they work on similar principles. Also worth googling the product you end up choosing to see the correct method of use as some have different application types.
Thank you for the help!!

Any recommendations on a de-ionization water filtration system to help alleviate water spots going forward? Wondered if anyone has had great results?
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