My car is crooked...

[TeeLew]

Don't you really have to reference the inner bolt for the lateral link against either the ball joint or axle center height? In as close to the vertical-lateral plane containing the axle line as possible?

Two measurements per corner to find out where the suspension positions really are.


Norm

My statements are concerning a ride height measurement. We can measure ride by using a fixture which bolts to the hubs and uses that as a reference plane to measure chassis height from the top side of the car, but no one would do that for a personal car.

Generally, you find a subframe bolt which is protected from hitting the ground and then measure from the head of that bolt. Snap gauges to the floor (setup pad) or a steel rule and horizontal laser plane gives you accuracy to at least 1/2 mm.

This method doesn't give you any real measurement of the suspension itself. On that front, you either need to trust the manufacturer or remove the actual subframes and put them on a bed plate for proper measurement. Again, not something we're going to do.

We have to accept that even if the subframe points are perfect, there will be some amount of twist in the chassis. This means measuring a point on each corner will never fall exactly planar. If it is particularly bad, we might shim one side of the subframe to flatten the twist. Usually, the twist will be mild enough to not make the car handle asymmetrically.

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[hlh1]

I've not measured my 19GT, and I'm afraid to.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

Here are the measurements after spring installation, but before clocking the bushings:

BEFORE: 25-13/16" (FL) (FR) 25-3/4"
AFTER: 24-3/4" 24-5/8"
DROP: 1-1/16" 1-1/8"


BEFORE: 25-3/8" (RL) (RR) 25-13/16"
AFTER: 24-5/8" 25-1/16"
DROP: 3/4" 3/4"

I'm pleased so far. Alignment and resetting the suspension is scheduled for tomorrow. We'll see where it ends up.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Here are the measurements after spring installation, but before clocking the bushings:

BEFORE: 25-13/16" (FL) (FR) 25-3/4"
AFTER: 24-3/4" 24-5/8"
DROP: 1-1/16" 1-1/8"


BEFORE: 25-3/8" (RL) (RR) 25-13/16"
AFTER: 24-5/8" 25-1/16"
DROP: 3/4" 3/4"

I'm pleased so far. Alignment and resetting the suspension is scheduled for tomorrow. We'll see where it ends up.

Mine dropped .875" front and .75" rear.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

Mine dropped .875" front and .75" rear.

Same springs? Same model (18 Ecoboost PP)? Did you clock/reset your suspension?

 

[MD18EcoStang]

For the record, this is where my car ended up after the installation of Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs, alignment, and *clocking the bushings.

* No way to know if all the right bolts were loosened and retightened, but the noted change before and after was negligible.

Based on the measurement approach from post #11 - from the bottom of rim straight up to the fender.

25-13/16" (FL) (FR) 25-3/4" (OEM)
24-3/4" 24-5/8" (After spring install)
24-11/16" 24-5/8" (After clocking)

25-3/8" (RL) (RR) 25-13/16" (OEM)
24-5/8" 25-1/16" (After spring install)
24-9/16" 25" (After clocking)

So, an even drop of 1-1/8" up front, and 13/16" in back. Looks and rides pretty good. I guess I'll ignore that 7/16" left to right discrepancy in the rear...

 

[btcarmd]

 

[btcarmd]

These are the factory specs for your car. I am trying to figure out where they are taking the ride height measurement from.

 

[btcarmd]

 

[btcarmd]

 

[MD18EcoStang]

These are the factory specs for your car. I am trying to figure out where they are taking the ride height measurement from.

Thanks! Looks like I'm slightly over tolerance on the rear side-to-side difference*. Just not sure if there's anything to do about that.

* If I'm even interpreting that correctly.

 

[btcarmd]

Thanks! Looks like I'm slightly over tolerance on the rear side-to-side difference*. Just not sure if there's anything to do about that.

* If I'm even interpreting that correctly.

If you take the measurements as described you will eliminate any body misalignment in your measurement. You may find you don't have a problem at all.

 

[btcarmd]

Thanks! Looks like I'm slightly over tolerance on the rear side-to-side difference*. Just not sure if there's anything to do about that.

* If I'm even interpreting that correctly.

Looks like they allow about 1/4 inch in rear but that could be a little different where you are measuring.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

If you take the measurements as described you will eliminate any body misalignment in your measurement. You may find you don't have a problem at all.

I will do that for sure at some point just to know. I'm guessing, as you suggested, that most or all of the difference is related to body panel alignment, or misalignment, as the case may be. There are a number of tolerances that could add up as you go from the ground up to the fender.

 

[TeeLew]

These are the factory specs for your car. I am trying to figure out where they are taking the ride height measurement from.

Those numbers, and the explanation, are confusing. Generally speaking, you want to choose a point which is on/near axle centerline for that end of the car and integral to the subframe, but in a protected spot (so it doesn't get damaged if the car hits the ground).

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