Safer Failsafe for WMI

[Bull Run]

Interesting thread and component.

The question I have is, even if an “error” occurs - isn’t the damage already done even if the failsafe activates?

Meaning, damage can occur seconds before that failsafe activates. Sure, the failsafe will do it’s job by cutting any other feeds to disable or shut down the engine AFTER it’s tripped.

?

Yes there will be an impact but the thought is that the failsafe can react quicker than the driver lifting off the throttle after seeing excess knock, noise, etc. But this is another reason why I don't want to use WMI for fueling, at least with cheap AEM unit that only sprays based on boost.

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[5.0yote]

You brought up some good points especially if you're using WMI for fueling. In my case, I'm using the WMI for cooling rather than fuel, so reduction of 10 PSI worth of boost should be sufficient. I believe many tuners discourage using WMI for additional fueling because so many things can go wrong with them. Considering that almost 90% of my commute is on a busy city highway, I'd rather avoid having to power cycle my car if I can avoid it.

Here's my counterpoint; most of the modders here have either stock WGA with 7 PSI springs or upgraded to TS WGA with 10 PSI springs. I don't think that any tune that's so aggressive that it can cause ecoboom with 7 to 10 PSI of boost is unsafe to use on a street car. Also, if you are using progressive setup set to start at 5 PSI and maxes out at 20 PSI, it won't be spraying much around 7 to 10 PSI anyways. Additionally, note that failsafe will not work if the controller completely dies, loses power, or if you forgot to switch it on in the first place, which is another reason to avoid using WMI to make up for fueling.

I run one tune for all seasons and during my commute, I've seen the ambient temperature drop down to high 30's during coldest days, and close to 120's during the hottest days. So a good street tune should be able to adjust to a wide range of conditions quickly.

Agreed.

 

[Bull Run]

I've been looking at Aquamist HFS4 and it uses both MAP and Injector duty cycle to trigger the spray. It also comes with flow gauge and has multiple failsafe options. I may have to upgrade to this when I start looking into port injection for WMI.

I also like that if you chose the WGA boost solenoid option for failsafe, you can have it send a dummy signal to the ECU so you can cut boost without triggering a code.

 

[RubyRed15]

I also like that if you chose the WGA boost solenoid option for failsafe, you can have it send a dummy signal to the ECU so you can cut boost without triggering a code.

How would that work?

 

[Bull Run]

Looks like Aquiamist uses a resister instead of completely opening the circuit. I saw the description of it in their manual.

Anyhow, I think that I figured out my issue. I was getting a very brief flash of the led status light (not a long single one for fluid running out), which was easy to miss unless you happen to be looking for it. It wasn't impacting the WMI function as it was still working fine, but it's enough to trigger the failsafe

I thought that it was still a grounding issue so I tried another grounding location but the failsafe kept triggering. I finally connected the ground wire directly to the battery but this didn't resolve the issue. With grounding issue ruled out, I remembered that this started happening sometime after I disabled the continual short circuit self-diagnostics (the one that keeps the pump buzzing all the time). I re-enabled it and failsafe hasn't triggered since.

 

[5.0yote]

Looks like Aquiamist uses a resister instead of completely opening the circuit. I saw the description of it in their manual.

Anyhow, I think that I figured out my issue. I was getting a very brief flash of the led status light (not a long single one for fluid running out), which was easy to miss unless you happen to be looking for it. It wasn't impacting the WMI function as it was still working fine, but it's enough to trigger the failsafe

I thought that it was still a grounding issue so I tried another grounding location but the failsafe kept triggering. I finally connected the ground wire directly to the battery but this didn't resolve the issue. With grounding issue ruled out, I remembered that this started happening sometime after I disabled the continual short circuit self-diagnostics (the one that keeps the pump buzzing all the time). I re-enabled it and failsafe hasn't triggered since.

I had a similar issue where my setup used to trip the fail safe, then I would look at the light and it would be blinking like it was shut off and on again. Mine was a ground issue which was resolved when I moved it to the battery ground. However and returning to this post of yours I originally had the continuous circuit diagnostics running out of the box then Adam had me shut that off. I did not think about it till now but I believe prior to that I do not remember tripping for no reason on a previous ground point. Might be related.

AEM told me you can run it in either mode however I was told by someone else it should be off, I would rather go with the mfr's info as its their device =)

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