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Brakemotive rotors

highvoltage

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Have you contacted Brakemotive about the failure? I’m sure they would like to know. Could be a bad batch?
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Kinjirra

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Don't blame the part??? :lol: I did something with the part it wasn't designed for? Where do they say not designed for hard stops? Or even not designed for track use?

If you feel safe using these on the street after seeing that pic, be my guest. Like I said this happened after one session on track not pushing very hard at all. And also happened to another mustang this weekend.

This could definitely happen in an emergency stopping situation on the street also. I'm just warning people of the possible danger. Do with the info what you want.
Oh come on...you can see the heat marks clear as day. To say you weren't pushing them is a lie. You ran a rotor that wasn't designed to be used on a track. To think budget "drilled" rotors are safe is being naïve in the extreme. Even I know better then that and I don't run tracks.
 

SVTDSM

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Oh come on...you can see the heat marks clear as day. To say you weren't pushing them is a lie. You ran a rotor that wasn't designed to be used on a track. To think budget "drilled" rotors are safe is being naïve in the extreme. Even I know better then that and I don't run tracks.
Wow! What reason do I have to lie? I'm not looking for anything from Brakemotive, or Powerstop! The heat mark is from coming to a dead stop in the gravel with hot brakes. Not from pushing very hard. That's is the mark the pad left on the rotor, and will happen every time you get your brakes hot on track and just come to a dead stop while they cool.

You keep saying that they weren't designed for track use which is BS that you made up. Here you go. Right from Powerstops description of the rotors. "The drilled and slotted design is our most popular performance rotor for street and Track day applications".

I've been tracking cars for years and there are plenty of "budget" parts that work just fine on track, and don't put my safety in jeopardy. Like I said, I'm sharing my experience. Do with the info what you want.
 
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Kinjirra

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Lol ok... Main thing is your ok. Not gonna argue the point that you used a budget cheap rotor that isn't any good for track and it failed. Good luck
 

SVTDSM

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Lol ok... Main thing is your ok. Not gonna argue the point that you used a budget cheap rotor that isn't any good for track and it failed. Good luck
Well hey, I appreciate that!:cheers:
 

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I don't know the temperature range of the Track Day pads because it does not appear to be public information, but by the color I know that rotor was seeing temperatures above 1400F. I guess my other question is why didn't you just run the stock rotors. I tested a set of these at Daytona to the point of compound fade in the same car and only began to developed cracking from the holes. The rotors did not change to the colors you have. I would love to see what the pads look like.
 

SVTDSM

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I don't know the temperature range of the Track Day pads because it does not appear to be public information, but by the color I know that rotor was seeing temperatures above 1400F. I guess my other question is why didn't you just run the stock rotors. I tested a set of these at Daytona to the point of compound fade in the same car and only began to developed cracking from the holes. The rotors did not change to the colors you have. I would love to see what the pads look like.
I’m not sure what you’re getting at here. I’m somehow to blame for overheating the rotors?
 

Houston Kid

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I’m not sure what you’re getting at here. I’m somehow to blame for overheating the rotors?
I don't think he is saying that, just that they got hot for whatever reason. Could they have gotten so hot as a result of the failure?

Meaning the caliper grabbed the outer part making it stop completely and the inner part kept spinning and grinding on the outer broken off part thus increasing the heat dramatically? EDIT. I don't think the inner part was spinning and grinding on the outer part. The metal is not smoothed out at all like it was grinding. It looks like they broke apart and stayed that way not grinding on one another.

I have no clue for I have never experienced such an issue.

Just a theory.

I think a bad casting in that area of the rotor for it to fail in such a uniform manner or simply an inferior steel was used.

Looking at the edge of the broken inner part where it was once attached it almost looks like a bad casting to me. Look at the edge where it looks like old exposed metal and then metal that has not been exposed to the elements. Maybe just the pic but I would be inclined to think a defective rotor.
 

SVTDSM

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I don't think he is saying that, just that they got hot for whatever reason. Could they have gotten so hot as a result of the failure?

Meaning the caliper grabbed the outer part making it stop completely and the inner part kept spinning and grinding on the outer broken off part thus increasing the heat dramatically? EDIT. I don't think the inner part was spinning and grinding on the outer part. The metal is not smoothed out at all like it was grinding. It looks like they broke apart and stayed that way not grinding on one another.

I have no clue for I have never experienced such an issue.

Just a theory.

I think a bad casting in that area of the rotor for it to fail in such a uniform manner or simply an inferior steel was used.

Looking at the edge of the broken inner part where it was once attached it almost looks like a bad casting to me. Look at the edge where it looks like old exposed metal and then metal that has not been exposed to the elements. Maybe just the pic but I would be inclined to think a defective rotor.
The disk looks normal other than the mark the pad left in the upper right of the pic. That was caused by coming to a dead stop with hot brakes and allowing them to cool. I've seen this many times at the track especially in the novice group when they come directly off track after pushing hard and don't cool down the brakes in the paddock before parking. Or when setting the parking brake with hot brakes.
 

Optimum Performance

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I’m not sure what you’re getting at here. I’m somehow to blame for overheating the rotors?
Apologies, brakes are a huge part of our business. I'm simply asking questions to understand the failure better. I do not have the parts in front of me. The pictures tell one story but only about the failure. This is a casting that developed a stress fracture caused by X. X could have been anything from impact fracture, casting flaw, material flaw, heat fracture. Maybe it was dropped somewhere along the line before you received it, maybe the expansion rate of the rotor ring exceeded the ability of the hub section to stretch and contract. Maybe it was hot and quickly cooled, maybe a heat treatment or normalizing operation was faulty. Looking at the pictures shows it was fractured and failed quickly. That points to a expansion failure. Heat is not to blame necessarily but still can be the cause. A lot goes into casting a rotor, just the getting the material chemistry correct for the intended properties takes effort and costs money. Post casting is another process that costs money. OEM rotors have to meet certain standards and they are produced on a massive scale while the car is in production. The selling price is based on the cost, as the car goes out of production the cost goes up as the volume goes down meaning the price goes up. When another company invests in all the tooling to produce a replacement casting; and I understand that all 4 rotors can be purchased for around $200 while One OEM front rotor is more than $100, you have to ask how much is invested in the production of the part. We see rotor failures all the time on track cars, they are consumable parts, when low cost rotors are used it is a given that it may not be as able to live in an environment it was not designed for. Powerstop, to my knowledge does not recommend this particular style rotor to be used with their track day pads. They typically recommend an OEM premium rotor that is solid or slotted. Powerstop also states that slotted rotors are recommended for track use over drilled rotors. Very few Companies can warranty brake products due to the nature of the use. Premium brands will usually take care of isolated issues. True race quality parts rarely fail in use and when they do it usually is related to an outside source that caused the failure. We have had products covered even when the root cause was an installation issue. Typically the best resolution is to reach out to the manufacturer privately first.
 

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SVTDSM

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Apologies, brakes are a huge part of our business. I'm simply asking questions to understand the failure better. I do not have the parts in front of me. The pictures tell one story but only about the failure. This is a casting that developed a stress fracture caused by X. X could have been anything from impact fracture, casting flaw, material flaw, heat fracture. Maybe it was dropped somewhere along the line before you received it, maybe the expansion rate of the rotor ring exceeded the ability of the hub section to stretch and contract. Maybe it was hot and quickly cooled, maybe a heat treatment or normalizing operation was faulty. Looking at the pictures shows it was fractured and failed quickly. That points to a expansion failure. Heat is not to blame necessarily but still can be the cause. A lot goes into casting a rotor, just the getting the material chemistry correct for the intended properties takes effort and costs money. Post casting is another process that costs money. OEM rotors have to meet certain standards and they are produced on a massive scale while the car is in production. The selling price is based on the cost, as the car goes out of production the cost goes up as the volume goes down meaning the price goes up. When another company invests in all the tooling to produce a replacement casting; and I understand that all 4 rotors can be purchased for around $200 while One OEM front rotor is more than $100, you have to ask how much is invested in the production of the part. We see rotor failures all the time on track cars, they are consumable parts, when low cost rotors are used it is a given that it may not be as able to live in an environment it was not designed for. Powerstop, to my knowledge does not recommend this particular style rotor to be used with their track day pads. They typically recommend an OEM premium rotor that is solid or slotted. Powerstop also states that slotted rotors are recommended for track use over drilled rotors. Very few Companies can warranty brake products due to the nature of the use. Premium brands will usually take care of isolated issues. True race quality parts rarely fail in use and when they do it usually is related to an outside source that caused the failure. We have had products covered even when the root cause was an installation issue. Typically the best resolution is to reach out to the manufacturer privately first.
I’m not looking to reach out to the manufacturer for any reimbursement. I’m looking to prevent anyone else from having this happen to them. I’ve now found three cases of the exact same failure from these rotors. There is clearly a manufacturing or casting issue with these that is a serious safety concern. Yes this is most likely only going to show it’s face when on track after multiple hard stops but IMO it’s just not worth the risk even on a street car.

Here is the third case I’ve found.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...-beware-of-track-day-rotors-by-powerstop.html

If you search for doghouse performance on Instagram you will see the other mustang that had the exact same failure this weekend.
 

SVT-DADDY

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When another company invests in all the tooling to produce a replacement casting; and I understand that all 4 rotors can be purchased for around $200 while One OEM front rotor is more than $100, you have to ask how much is invested in the production of the part.

I've been thinking the same thing the whole time this thread has been going.

I will admit that I picked up a set of these for the rear, mostly to match my Baer rotors in the front. These rotors are good enough but compared side by side to the Baer you can see where the money is.
 

GJarrett

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[MENTION=7179]SVTDSM[/MENTION] thank you for definitively answering my question. I appreciate your reply and am glad no injury or further damage occurred from your misfortune.

I'll pass on buying these rotors.
 

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So who else kept these on your car? Safe for daily driving?
 

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Strangely enough I saw a replica of this exact situation pop up on a local FB group this weekend too. Sucks to hear about, hopefully this is an issue with a particular batch and not something more widespread.
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