Want HP and safety

[nelson]

Hi all,

I'm really interested in doing an FI setup on my 18 but am concerned about safety. I realize things can go wrong out of my control but I want to take the basic steps toward ensuring a safe setup that will last a long time.

Does this mean pulling the motor and doing some internal work before adding FI? I don't really have a power goal right now I just want to have a strong powertrain no matter the power.

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[TexasGT]

Hi all,

I'm really interested in doing an FI setup on my 18 but am concerned about safety. I realize things can go wrong out of my control but I want to take the basic steps toward ensuring a safe setup that will last a long time.

Does this mean pulling the motor and doing some internal work before adding FI? I don't really have a power goal right now I just want to have a strong powertrain no matter the power.

You can do 600-650whp super safe with no issues. If you want to be ultra protective, do the oil pump gears and crank sprocket change. Over $1000, but provides more peace of mind.

 

[ahl395]

^ What he said.

Just be mindful that when modding you open the slight possibility of breaking things even at "safe" power levels and you have no warranty. I broke a 6R80 at 630whp. :headbonk:

In the end, it's worth it. Just keep it in mind you may have to repair and upgrade things later on down the line. As long as you know that's a possibility, mod away. Just don't fool yourself saying "my amount of hp is completely safe" and then be heartbroken when something goes.

The most important thing is a good tune from a reputable tuner, and letting the car warm up before getting on it too hard.

 

[nelson]

^ What he said.

Just be mindful that when modding you open the slight possibility of breaking things even at "safe" power levels and you have no warranty. I broke a 6R80 at 630whp. :headbonk:

In the end, it's worth it. Just keep it in mind you may have to repair and upgrade things later on down the line. As long as you know that's a possibility, mod away. Just don't fool yourself saying "my amount of hp is completely safe" and then be heartbroken when something goes.

The most important thing is a good tune from a reputable tuner, and letting the car warm up before getting on it too hard.

So 600-650HP really truly is safe even without sleeves or forged components? That's pretty incredible to me.

 

[yote41]

you don't know must about the newer gen coyotes then OP. It is very credible. the coyote already has forged crank and rods.....

 

[ahl395]

So 600-650HP really truly is safe even without sleeves or forged components? That's pretty incredible to me.

Way more than that for many people. I'm around 800-850whp (waiting on dyno results) and have 35k miles, supercharged since 6k. Only engine upgrade I did was the OPG/CG. And theres many others with more than that.

you don't know must about the newer gen coyotes then OP. It is very credible. the coyote already has forged crank and rods.....

Yep, forged crank and sinter-forged rods. Pretty strong. The weakest link of the coyote is the piston rings from heat on long pulls, and that's just because the gaps are set that way for emissions from the factory.

 

[nelson]

you don't know must about the newer gen coyotes then OP. It is very credible. the coyote already has forged crank and rods.....

I definitely don't. Did the 11-14 have these forged components?

Way more than that for many people. I'm around 800-850whp (waiting on dyno results) and have 35k miles, supercharged since 6k. Only engine upgrade I did was the OPG/CG. And theres many others with more than that.



Yep, forged crank and sinter-forged rods. Pretty strong. The weakest link of the coyote is the piston rings from heat on long pulls, and that's just because the gaps are set that way for emissions from the factory.

Wow that's absurd levels of power!

Are you planning to just push it until it breaks and then fix with better components or what is your long term plan?

 

[Nomadic]

I'm at close to 700hp at the crank with my Whipple S2. Stock whipple tune. No other engine mods. My car has basically no issues except a belt chirp before it's totally warmed up.

 

[ahl395]

I definitely don't. Did the 11-14 have these forged components?




Wow that's absurd levels of power!

Are you planning to just push it until it breaks and then fix with better components or what is your long term plan?

If I remmeber correctly 11-14 had a forged crank also but had cast rods.

I plan on pushing it till it breaks and then replacing/building the motor. I hope to get 100k out of this one but we'll see. I also run methanol injection which helps lower the stress on the engine (lowers temps, pressures, etc.) as well as adds octane, which will help the motor live longer at this power level.

 

[Boduke0220]

You are always playing with fire when you nearly double the factoryy output of an engine. Seems like the biggest issue is people trying to push too hard on 93 and end up doing a ringland delete

 

[kcc0521]

If I remmeber correctly 11-14 had a forged crank also but had cast rods.

I plan on pushing it till it breaks and then replacing/building the motor. I hope to get 100k out of this one but we'll see. I also run methanol injection which helps lower the stress on the engine (lowers temps, pressures, etc.) as well as adds octane, which will help the motor live longer at this power level.

I would say 100k on any car that we beat on with forced induction is a lofty goal. I would be happy if my motor last until the car is paid for LOL. I just dropped down to a 3.48 on the Paxton and I am hopping the motor will have a long and happy life.

 

[ahl395]

I would say 100k on any car that we beat on with forced induction is a lofty goal. I would be happy if my motor last until the car is paid for LOL. I just dropped down to a 3.48 on the Paxton and I am hopping the motor will have a long and happy life.

We shall see I'll have 100k on it in under four years and my loan is six. I'll be putting a new motor in it whole I'm still paying for it. I plan on keeping the car for 300k+ so it'll probably have gone through two motors by then. :lol:

 

[kcc0521]

I say hope for the best but prepare for the worst.

 

[MadCow]

If I remmeber correctly 11-14 had a forged crank also but had cast rods.

All coyotes and all 4.6 4V motors with manual transmission have forged cranks. Mostly all 5.4 motors came with forged cranks. All modular and coyotes motors have powder metal rods with the exception of some special edition motors. Early 4.6 rods are thin, weigh about 580g and have balance pads. 4.6 Windsors and 4.6 Cobras except 03-04 have slightly thicker rods at around 600g. 02+ 4.6 motors have a common rod thats about 615g with balance pads. 11-14 coyotes rods are about 580g but don't have balance pads. 15-17 rods are the same as the Boss 302 rods, weigh around 615g, have thicker beams, and are made from a stronger metal than previous rods. Not a lot of information about the 18+ coyote rods. Nobody asked for all that but I just threw it out there.

 

[SlaughterOfTheSoul]

As soon as you do a tune, regardless of power output, you open the door to severe engine damage. There needs to be a fair amount of vigilance in regularly reviewing your logs. My favorite thing is just to have a max knock count reading on display at all times.

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