Engine Bay Questions/Issues

[gsirakides]

Anyone would like to comment on these pictures? Oil residue, Some type of phosphor on engine. Hood insulator getting torn up. Just my daily driver that has been covered and parked while we have all these rain storms in No. CAL.

Sponsored

 

[honeybadger]

Anyone would like to comment on these pictures? Oil residue, Some type of phosphor on engine. Hood insulator getting torn up. Just my daily driver that has been covered and parked while we have all these rain storms in No. CAL.

I know this probably doesn't apply because of the conditions you describe, but you it looks like salt residue to me.

 

[TDC]

The white on the aluminum components is just normal oxidation. You can handle that by a light scuff using a fine scotchbright pad followed with an aluminum protectant such as Sharkhide.

As for the liquid it looks red and if so maybe coolant or trans fluid?

 

[Zitrosounds]

One of the first things I did after I bought my car was detail and preserve my engine. Had to do it again when My engine was replaced.

 

[Tank]

One of the first things I did after I bought my car was detail and preserve my engine. Had to do it again when My engine was replaced.

Hey Harold, have you posted what you did to preserve your engine & bay? If not could you give us a quick rundown?

Thanks in advance

 

[TRAC WPN]

Hey Harold, have you posted what you did to preserve your engine & bay? If not could you give us a quick rundown?

Thanks in advance

Also would appreciate info

 

[R1Jester]

The insulation getting torn up is a bit confusing and may help to determine what's going on. Can you see if anything in that corresponding area of the engine bay is "loose" Perhaps a hose or something that may be spraying or fogging the engine bay when you drive?

 

[xt6wagon]

The insulation getting torn up is a bit confusing and may help to determine what's going on. Can you see if anything in that corresponding area of the engine bay is "loose" Perhaps a hose or something that may be spraying or fogging the engine bay when you drive?

Mice love them some hood blanket. Just a thought.

 

[5.2 VooDoo]

Mice love them some hood blanket. Just a thought.

Totally agree!

 

[Zitrosounds]

Also would appreciate info

Just so you know I am not blowing you off. I am building a list of like products to that which I use. I use MIL grade stuff and will also provide that info if you wish to buy those products. I use the mill grade stuff becuase it works and it is used regularly on 30mil+ aircraft ; )

 

[johnny1]

I think if I remember right several years ago a guy (of course covered air intake and alternator) I knew sprayed his entire engine with armor all till it was real wet then just rinsed it off with a garden hose and started car and let it run for a bit. And when it was dry everything including all the hoses was glossy shiny. It looked like he put all brand new stuff under the hood. But I do believe it left a tacky feel and smeared if you touched any place glossy. And I think it would want to collect dirt (not sure though)

 

[Zitrosounds]

Not the way i do it.

 

[dron_jones]

I think if I remember right several years ago a guy (of course covered air intake and alternator) I knew sprayed his entire engine with armor all till it was real wet then just rinsed it off with a garden hose and started car and let it run for a bit. And when it was dry everything including all the hoses was glossy shiny. It looked like he put all brand new stuff under the hood. But I do believe it left a tacky feel and smeared if you touched any place glossy. And I think it would want to collect dirt (not sure though)

Man this sounds like it would be nice for about 30 seconds and then it would become a nightmare.

 

[Zitrosounds]

To give you a little background, I hate!!!! CORROSION!!!! I am probably considered OCD as is (as many on this forum are) but corrosion is the devil and it takes my OCD to another level. Cars today have much better corrosion prevention solutions but it is almost impossible to stop Mother Nature. I go the additional step and do my additional corrosion prevention inspections on my car at a 90 day interval. You will have to do it more often if you are in a less temperate area. Do not be afraid to hit your engine with water. Use common sense! Low pressure is good and do not directly hit electrical components or engine mating surfaces. Engine components and electrical components are sealed to prevent water intrusion but water under pressure will find a way. Use common sense!
1. Clean engine bay. Most of the engine bays should be relatively clean as these are new cars but clean none the less. I have a pressure washer but no deionizing unit as of yet. The deionized water will have less minerals and therefore less condusive for corrosion. So I go to the car wash aby and use the spot free rinse to loosen up dirt and dust. If you engine bay is on the dirtier side I would use a closer to the neutral PH degreaser but no more than 10 PH (Simple Green 8.5-9.5) for stubborn areas. Instead of liberally spraying the cleaner just spray the stubborn areas or onto a brush or rag and agitate then rinse. The deionized water will have less electrolytes and therefore less condusive for corrosion. Blow dry the engine bay and absorb any standing water
2. Once the area is clean we can move on to preservation of metal surfaces. For the exposed aluminum block I use Liquid wrench lubricating oil which has a boiling point of 320 degree and well exceeds that of the engines operating temps. Thus it will not burn of or rather evaporate and should last till next inspection. Spray onto a rag and apply it to the exposed aluminum block. This will prevent aluminum oxidation or corrosion as it creates a water barrier. If you go crazy and apply to much just remember that the product will accumulate and attract dust and dirt that’s why I use a microfiber. You can apply this film to any bare metal surfaces but I have a better product for that. MIL-DTL-85054 is a specification for a corrosion preventative compound. Products meeting the spec dry hard and clear and displace water to prevent corrosion. https://www.google.com/search?q=mil...SgC&biw=1366&bih=697#spd=12595874565246014149 I use this on hardware that is not painted in the engine bay and the underbody. I love this stuff! It can be purchased in an aerosol or by the quart. If you by the aerosol you can liberally spray it but it will get messy. Instead I spray into a small mixing cup and apply the product with an acid brush or for a cleaner application use small painter’s brush. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Brushes/Golden-Taklon-10-Piece-Assorted-Brush-Set/p/9222 . Allow products to cure before step 3.
3. To make the engine look brand new I use Meguiars G4116 natural shine. This is a water based product and can be diluted to achieve desired gloss. I do not like shiny so I start off with the product that I feel has the least sheen then dilute it 50/50. I use a chemical resistant spray bottle like SprayMaster to dilute the and as a dedicated sprayer. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Liquid-F...38817&wl11=online&wl12=19241284&wl13=&veh=sem . This not only gives a low gloss it also leaves less of a residue. You can use pretty much use any protectant the likes of Meguiars G4116 just make sure it is water based or it will get crazy when mixed with water. Know you can spray the engine bay. I spray everything! Let the product drip dry for an hour or more then you can go driving. It will protect all your plastics and leave light layer on everything else. The looks are phenomenal!

That’s it!!! I will take pictures next time I do it so you can see the results. I do not do this regularly and only when my engine bay is really dirty. My old engine I only did it once and did it again to the new engine and haven’t touched it since. I just regularly wipe the engine bay down when need be. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[TRAC WPN]

To give you a little background, I hate!!!! CORROSION!!!! I am probably considered OCD as is (as many on this forum are) but corrosion is the devil and it takes my OCD to another level. Cars today have much better corrosion prevention solutions but it is almost impossible to stop Mother Nature. I go the additional step and do my additional corrosion prevention inspections on my car at a 90 day interval. You will have to do it more often if you are in a less temperate area. Do not be afraid to hit your engine with water. Use common sense! Low pressure is good and do not directly hit electrical components or engine mating surfaces. Engine components and electrical components are sealed to prevent water intrusion but water under pressure will find a way. Use common sense!
1. Clean engine bay. Most of the engine bays should be relatively clean as these are new cars but clean none the less. I have a pressure washer but no deionizing unit as of yet. The deionized water will have less minerals and therefore less condusive for corrosion. So I go to the car wash aby and use the spot free rinse to loosen up dirt and dust. If you engine bay is on the dirtier side I would use a closer to the neutral PH degreaser but no more than 10 PH (Simple Green 8.5-9.5) for stubborn areas. Instead of liberally spraying the cleaner just spray the stubborn areas or onto a brush or rag and agitate then rinse. The deionized water will have less electrolytes and therefore less condusive for corrosion. Blow dry the engine bay and absorb any standing water
2. Once the area is clean we can move on to preservation of metal surfaces. For the exposed aluminum block I use Liquid wrench lubricating oil which has a boiling point of 320 degree and well exceeds that of the engines operating temps. Thus it will not burn of or rather evaporate and should last till next inspection. Spray onto a rag and apply it to the exposed aluminum block. This will prevent aluminum oxidation or corrosion as it creates a water barrier. If you go crazy and apply to much just remember that the product will accumulate and attract dust and dirt that’s why I use a microfiber. You can apply this film to any bare metal surfaces but I have a better product for that. MIL-DTL-85054 is a specification for a corrosion preventative compound. Products meeting the spec dry hard and clear and displace water to prevent corrosion. https://www.google.com/search?q=mil...SgC&biw=1366&bih=697#spd=12595874565246014149 I use this on hardware that is not painted in the engine bay and the underbody. I love this stuff! It can be purchased in an aerosol or by the quart. If you by the aerosol you can liberally spray it but it will get messy. Instead I spray into a small mixing cup and apply the product with an acid brush or for a cleaner application use small painter’s brush. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Brushes/Golden-Taklon-10-Piece-Assorted-Brush-Set/p/9222 . Allow products to cure before step 3.
3. To make the engine look brand new I use Meguiars G4116 natural shine. This is a water based product and can be diluted to achieve desired gloss. I do not like shiny so I start off with the product that I feel has the least sheen then dilute it 50/50. I use a chemical resistant spray bottle like SprayMaster to dilute the and as a dedicated sprayer. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Liquid-F...38817&wl11=online&wl12=19241284&wl13=&veh=sem . This not only gives a low gloss it also leaves less of a residue. You can use pretty much use any protectant the likes of Meguiars G4116 just make sure it is water based or it will get crazy when mixed with water. Know you can spray the engine bay. I spray everything! Let the product drip dry for an hour or more then you can go driving. It will protect all your plastics and leave light layer on everything else. The looks are phenomenal!

That’s it!!! I will take pictures next time I do it so you can see the results. I do not do this regularly and only when my engine bay is really dirty. My old engine I only did it once and did it again to the new engine and haven’t touched it since. I just regularly wipe the engine bay down when need be. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you, appreciate you taking the time to post this.

Sponsored