FrontTires rubbing with MRR m350 wheels

[BigHo]

I have 285/35/19 MPSS upfront and lowered on complete FRPP track handling package. I'm sitting roughly 1.25" lower and I have my alignment set-up with no camber or toe and I have no rubbing on any occasions. I haven't driven hard on the canyons yet but I'm sure it will still not have any rubbing issues

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[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I looked at the alignment sheet again, i think it may be because of thr camber upfront.

 

[16s550]

I'm running 285 35 19 with koni yellow up front. No rubbing . I hunk maybe a tad on tight u turns. I was told that a 5mm spacer would work perfectly

Side question if someone can help I'm going to be putting the Caster camber plates on the front soon I was wondering do I adjust those or do I have the alignment shop with just them and what would be the best adjustment

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I'm running 285 35 19 with koni yellow up front. No rubbing . I hunk maybe a tad on tight u turns. I was told that a 5mm spacer would work perfectly

Side question if someone can help I'm going to be putting the Caster camber plates on the front soon I was wondering do I adjust those or do I have the alignment shop with just them and what would be the best adjustment

Correct pushing it to a et 35 which works great also.

 

[tedj101]

I'm running 285 35 19 with koni yellow up front. No rubbing . I hunk maybe a tad on tight u turns. I was told that a 5mm spacer would work perfectly

Side question if someone can help I'm going to be putting the Caster camber plates on the front soon I was wondering do I adjust those or do I have the alignment shop with just them and what would be the best adjustment

You or the alignment shop can set up the front end. However, since you are asking the question, it doesn't sound as if you have the sort of experience that is necessary to do the work yourself (not that it is particularly hard).

What you want to use for settings is a personal matter. First you need to ask yourself why you are putting caster and camber plates on the car. I have camber plates (the stock caster is extreme enough that I can't see why anyone would want to change it so I only bought camber plates). I did it because I was running my tires off at the outside at the track. A stock S550 has -.75 front camber. I have gone incrementally to -1.6 based upon temperatures sampled across the face of the tire at the track. That seems to be pretty optimal for my car. Having said that, I would expect to get excess tire wear on the inside with that setup if I were using the car solely on the street.

On the flip side, I suspect that your car is lowered. When you lower a Mustang you increase your negative camber - about -1.5 is pretty common on a Mustang lowered 1". Some people who have lowered their cars but run primarily on the street put in camber plates to remove that extra negative camber that they got from the lowering.

I'm not sure what camp you might fit into.

I hope this helps...

<TED>

 

[16s550]

You or the alignment shop can set up the front end. However, since you are asking the question, it doesn't sound as if you have the sort of experience that is necessary to do the work yourself (not that it is particularly hard).

What you want to use for settings is a personal matter. First you need to ask yourself why you are putting caster and camber plates on the car. I have camber plates (the stock caster is extreme enough that I can't see why anyone would want to change it so I only bought camber plates). I did it because I was running my tires off at the outside at the track. A stock S550 has -.75 front camber. I have gone incrementally to -1.6 based upon temperatures sampled across the face of the tire at the track. That seems to be pretty optimal for my car. Having said that, I would expect to get excess tire wear on the inside with that setup if I were using the car solely on the street.

On the flip side, I suspect that your car is lowered. When you lower a Mustang you increase your negative camber - about -1.5 is pretty common on a Mustang lowered 1". Some people who have lowered their cars but run primarily on the street put in camber plates to remove that extra negative camber that they got from the lowering.

I'm not sure what camp you might fit into.

I hope this helps...

<TED>

It's helps a ton. Well I got a good deal on them and figured they would be good to have for handling purposes and yes since car is lowered 1inch. I have steeda sport linears. I noticed I have very ltitle clearance with tire and koni shocks. Figured it would help in that area as well . I have performance pack car so maybe the plates are over kill. Still haven't installed them. Now you have me thinking I should sell them

 

[Gibbo205]

Check the fender is secured, if so then get a glue (hot air) gun and just heat the fender liner up and push it back to create some extra clearance.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

Check the fender is secured, if so then get a glue (hot air) gun and just heat the fender liner up and push it back to create some extra clearance.

Engineering at its finest lol.

 

[Agent_S550]

You need to get that cross caster under control. 7.3 to 6.8 would be enough for a pull under hard braking. Not acceptable for me on my alignments.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

You need to get that cross caster under control. 7.3 to 6.8 would be enough for a pull under hard braking. Not acceptable for me on my alignments.

Shit i didnt even notice that.

 

[American]

FWIW I have the same setup (MRR 350 19x10 and 285/35/19 squared) and it has never rubbed.

 

[Agent_S550]

Shit i didnt even notice that.

I've done many lowered and sometimes slammed alignments. Caster greatly affects the ability of the wheels to sit square in the fender (as I'm sure you know). It's likely that it's rubbing on one side more than the other due to the half degree.

 

[Rambl3r]

You need to get that cross caster under control. 7.3 to 6.8 would be enough for a pull under hard braking. Not acceptable for me on my alignments.

I'm a noob. Ideally, what should these numbers be at?

 

[Agent_S550]

I'm a noob. Ideally, what should these numbers be at?

Depends on your desires. Most anything beyond 7 degrees is a waste on a street car.

Caster is directly related to the position of the front tires fore and aft. It also pivots the tie rod arm up and down in relation to the rack and pinion. This effectively creates or takes away bump steer. What your standard aftermarket bump steer kit does is lower the tie rod pivot point which can also be accomplished (mostly) by adding more caster.

There also comes a point where there is too much caster. You'll find it creates more bumpsteer than before and can causes an issue with poor braking performance. So be careful.

All caster does in a sense is move the centerline of the top of the wheel/tire forward or back in relation to the lower ball joint centerline. You're basically "rolling" the front tire forward in it's axis. This also can explain why one tire looks more forward than the other within the wheelwell. It's very important to pay attention to.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I've done many lowered and sometimes slammed alignments. Caster greatly affects the ability of the wheels to sit square in the fender (as I'm sure you know). It's likely that it's rubbing on one side more than the other due to the half degree.

Correct, I deal with it on one of my other cars because of how low she sits. Kinda kicking myself in the butt I didn't notice it.

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