Brake cooling hose routing

[mnmike59]

Has anybody had issues with the brake cooling hose getting crushed?
I routed the hose as recommended. This is a "Full Tilt Boogie Racing" kit. Starts at the inlet at the driving lights then back and up between the Sway bar and frame. The car is lowered 1" and the sway bar with the car on the ground pinches the hose and eventually will destroy it. Any other option looks like the tires would hit it when turning.
I'm looking for a better option.

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[Niz55]

why would you even need brake cooling when you have have a PP car?

 

[Competition Orange]

why would you even need brake cooling when you have have a PP car?

This can't be a serious question, can it?

 

[gtorpedo]

Has anybody had issues with the brake cooling hose getting crushed?
I routed the hose as recommended. This is a "Full Tilt Boogie Racing" kit. Starts at the inlet at the driving lights then back and up between the Sway bar and frame. The car is lowered 1" and the sway bar with the car on the ground pinches the hose and eventually will destroy it. Any other option looks like the tires would hit it when turning.
I'm looking for a better option.

I have the same FTBR kit on my car, which is also lowered (on Ridetech coilovers). I have mine routed generally the same as you, but have zip tied the hose to that black wire loom to pull it up and out of contact with the sway bar. The only significant rubbing I get is on the steering rack boot, but its not that bad. I can upload a photo tomorrow if that's helpful.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

why would you even need brake cooling when you have have a PP car?

Obviously there are other plusses for a PP. But everything else equal, I would prefer the stock brakes with cooling to the Brembos without extra cooling on tracks that really stress the brakes. Its not that hard to overheat the Brembo setup unless it has extra cooling.

 

[gtorpedo]

why would you even need brake cooling when you have have a PP car?

Valid question, but the brake cooling kit will flow more air directly to the rotor face and be more effective at cooling the brakes than with just the PP undertray.

 

[mnmike59]

I have the same FTBR kit on my car, which is also lowered (on Ridetech coilovers). I have mine routed generally the same as you, but have zip tied the hose to that black wire loom to pull it up and out of contact with the sway bar. The only significant rubbing I get is on the steering rack boot, but its not that bad. I can upload a photo tomorrow if that's helpful.

Yes, please. I'd love a look at your setup. Thanks!!

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

For the record I had the GTPP brembos on my Big turbo ecoboost and ran 5 track days with no issues.

I could not get them to fade, in 100+ degree weather.

However the standard GT/EBPP brakes need ducts imo

 

[mnmike59]

For the record I had the GTPP brembos on my Big turbo ecoboost and ran 5 track days with no issues.

I could not get them to fade, in 100+ degree weather.

However the standard GT/EBPP brakes need ducts imo

An APR splitter removes the channeling for the air flow.

 

[cop on my back]

I had to squeeze mine so the tires wouldn't come into contact at full lock. Found out the hard way after I had heard a weird noise in parking lots. Hoses were toast, so put in new ones. Pics on here.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52515

 

[Optimum Performance]

I had to squeeze mine so the tires wouldn't come into contact at full lock. Found out the hard way after I had heard a weird noise in parking lots. Hoses were toast, so put in new ones. Pics on here.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52515

Has anybody had issues with the brake cooling hose getting crushed?
I routed the hose as recommended. This is a "Full Tilt Boogie Racing" kit. Starts at the inlet at the driving lights then back and up between the Sway bar and frame. The car is lowered 1" and the sway bar with the car on the ground pinches the hose and eventually will destroy it. Any other option looks like the tires would hit it when turning.
I'm looking for a better option.

Mike this is how I routed mine. I spent a long time staring at things under the car for best routing, but my spindle ducts tuck into the strut. I didn't see how the forward angle provided any benefit and from what I have seen forces the flex tube to hit everything. Still untested :frusty:

 

[mnmike59]

Well, I'm trying a new route. (fingers crossed) I have a track day tomorrow so I had to do something.
With the way I routed the hose this time, I cannot go lock to lock with the steering. I can only go one full revolution with the wheel.

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[Optimum Performance]

Well, I'm trying a new route. (fingers crossed) I have a track day tomorrow so I had to do something.
With the way I routed the hose this time, I cannot go lock to lock with the steering. I can only go one full revolution with the wheel.

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Nice Rotors

 

[mnmike59]

After 100 miles on the street not turning lock to lock, I snapped some pictures the best I could with the car on the ground. The hoses held up well, Tomorrow will be the true test at the track.

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[gtorpedo]

Mike, here's a few pictures of how I routed my hoses.

After inspecting my hoses, I do see some slight pinching of the hose on the driver side from the sway bar but most of my rubbing comes from the steering rack boot.

A couple things that I noticed from your original setup:

- I see you are running an aftermarket sway bar (BMR?) with the stock endlinks. If you add some adjustable endlinks you can lengthen them so the bar ends are parallel to the ground - this will give your hoses more clearance.

- Also, its tough to tell from the photo but it appears that driver side hose is pretty stretched out which will also cause issues. Make sure you have plenty of slack in the hose to allow full range lock-to-lock.

Good luck with your track day!

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