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Advice on paint matching engine and coil covers needed.

ponie1992

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Anyone do this themselves? Any recommendations on which paint brand, primers, plastic adhesion promoters, etc? I found 12 oz spray cans online. Cost would be $60-70. All opinions welcome.
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activeGT

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Anyone do this themselves? Any recommendations on which paint brand, primers, plastic adhesion promoters, etc? I found 12 oz spray cans online. Cost would be $60-70. All opinions welcome.
Get a can of Bulldog for adhesion. Everything should adhere well to that.

Read the directions on the can.
 

Khyber

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vht or dupicolor engine enamel is what a lot of people use. it's all about the method you use though and sanding and polishing techniques to get what you want

doing mine soon as well.
 

MaskedRacerX

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vht or dupicolor engine enamel is what a lot of people use. it's all about the method you use though and sanding and polishing techniques to get what you want

doing mine soon as well.
Have you done much painting? I've done some outdoor furniture, a couple of lighting fixtures, they were decent, just using rattle-can primer/paint.

I've done a ton of brush/roller painting in the house, but I'd assume that kind of not applicable.

I've love to DIY mine, I'm pretty handy if there are good instructions, just don't want to f*** it up, though I guess you could clean them and start again if it went pear shaped ...
 

chris_5oh

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Cough cough plastidip cough cough

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Khyber

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you can buy paint matched cans off the internet from popular places.
 
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ponie1992

ponie1992

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you can buy paint matched cans off the internet from popular places.
That's what I had looked up for $60-70. Kinda wondering how difficult it is to do a nice job and how well it would hold up to underhood conditions.
 

Khyber

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http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_matched.aspx this is the site that some people have used on here.

Ruby Red is $40 where as a color like mine is only $20. Ruby red is a hard color to match though from what I hear but since it won't be next to an existing oem ruby red part you'll be fine.

I'm hoping vht chevy orange is going to be close enough for me because it's like 6 or $8 a can or something. i need to go buy a can and spray something random and check. prob won't notice a difference unless it was right beside an already painted piece of the car but since it's not I'm hoping i get lucky.
 

Jeffy_2010

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Did my covers myself for the lettering and stripes I have the anchor room decals for them
 

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http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_matched.aspx this is the site that some people have used on here.

Ruby Red is $40 where as a color like mine is only $20. Ruby red is a hard color to match though from what I hear but since it won't be next to an existing oem ruby red part you'll be fine.

I'm hoping vht chevy orange is going to be close enough for me because it's like 6 or $8 a can or something. i need to go buy a can and spray something random and check. prob won't notice a difference unless it was right beside an already painted piece of the car but since it's not I'm hoping i get lucky.
wish I had seen this sooner. I used Chevy orange vht and it is a close match but a tad lighter. duplicolor would have been too light. almost neon orange
 
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ponie1992

ponie1992

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I like what Jeffy did and I want something similar in RR. Here is what I found online:



Another thing I'm wondering is would a base primer be better done in white? I put grey in the cart because it's the same price as the white, but not sure which would be a better base for RR.
 

activeGT

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That's what I had looked up for $60-70. Kinda wondering how difficult it is to do a nice job and how well it would hold up to underhood conditions.
Nothing you are painting gets that hot so no issue.

As far as sanding the plastic, as it was suggested, no good. It will not paint smoothly. Use pre-kleeno then Bulldog.

As far as the ground coat you chose, it is the best color for your top color.
 

Martman GT

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You can find instructions on internet / youtube for doing it yourself. How long it takes will depend on how many steps you want to take sanding / polishing the clear coat. As for the lettering / stripes on the pieces, you spray your base coat, then apply some clear coat over the letters and stripes. Mask off around letters / stripes and spray your stripe / letter color and use some thinner to remove the overspray (this is why you clear coat so you don't remove base coat), then when all lettering is done, clear coat the entire piece. That's when the fun begins with color sanding and polishing.
Parts will hold up fine as many have done this already. Here's a couple pics of mine that's been done for 3+ months now.
Paint Coil 1.webp
Paint Coil 2.webp
 

Khyber

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yup exactly what I plan on doing. looks great [MENTION=19354]Martman GT[/MENTION]
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