Well I did it... i effed up my shift knob swap and now need a new shifter.

[TheDivaDanielle]

Got my fancy EPCO/SpeedDawg shift knob in the mail today. Was going to just put it on the stock shifter, and then down the road get a MGW.

Well in my idiocy of not paying attention, and not really thinking about it when installing, I grabbed the red loctite instead of the blue, and boy that sets fast.

It literally completed bonding and would not budge before I could set the shift knob in place 100%. I was about half a turn from perfection when it set.

Not to mention that I won't be getting it off without cutting it off, and if I cut it off I kill my stock shifter, soooooo I guess I'll be upgrading right away with all of 120 miles on the car.

I marred the heck out of it trying to get it to even move so it's a bit gouged now.

LESSON LEARNED, ALWAYS PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH LOCTITE BOTTLE YOU GRAB, BECAUSE THEY LOOK ALIKE - since both bottles are blue in color.

So I'm out $60 for the shift knob I destroyed, and I'm gonna change the shifter right away instead of later. Could be worse.

I feel so dumb. not my first car that's stick. not my first car that I've changed shifters or shift knobs on either. just didn't pay attention to which loctite I grabbed.

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[Strokerswild]

Heat it up good and hot with a hair drier and put a rubber strap wrench on it. It very well may come right off.

 

[isedawishy]

Try turning it with a oil filter tool; rubber type.

I bet you'll be able to turn it.

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

already went hog wild on it. red loctite sticks to 550*

 

[DR_]

You might want to drive it around for a little bit like that and see if you like the shifting feel with that style knob. I bought a similar Roush one and found that since it was lighter than stock it made the shifting feel notchy to me. It would be silly for you to buy a second one and then find out you don’t like the feel of it. I went back to stock but I want to try a heavier knob at some point.

 

[neodark]

So totally separate question... Sorry OP, but I noticed your car has "Shaker" painted in white. Do you have the 401A package with the upgraded stereo? I do, and mine isn't white font.

 

[kenbidwell]

Neither is mine!

 

[paul123]

I vote drive it as is. If you get OCD, then just put some duct tape over the numbers. :lol:

Did that even need loctite?

I am tempted to go MGW shifter as well. Probably after getting some more miles on the car.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Remember that according to your shifter, you need to start in 9th gear

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

You might want to drive it around for a little bit like that and see if you like the shifting feel with that style knob. I bought a similar Roush one and found that since it was lighter than stock it made the shifting feel notchy to me. It would be silly for you to buy a second one and then find out you don’t like the feel of it. I went back to stock but I want to try a heavier knob at some point.

that would have been my third one from them. Had it on my old Mustang, have it on my Focus. i'm a bit of a repeat customer.

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

well I went outside and hit the ball with a hammer so I could break it and get at the shifter arm itself and get a good grip on the nut insert. it's not budging. dammit.

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

So totally separate question... Sorry OP, but I noticed your car has "Shaker" painted in white. Do you have the 401A package with the upgraded stereo? I do, and mine isn't white font.

yes, car has every option but AAC

 

[Cobra Jet]

Off topic - but in reference to Shaker plate questions:

The 2016's seem to have the 'Shaker' font in white - not sure if that is true for all, but I know on my 16 Premium EB w/Perf Pack, it's definitely white.

On topic:
As for the Red Loctite issue - this is directly from Loctite:
1) Clean adhesive residue immediately with a damp cloth. Cured product can be removed with a combination of soaking in methylene chloride and mechanical abrasion such as a wire brush.
2) For disassembly, heat parts up to 482°F (250°C) and separate parts while hot.

*Methylene Chloride may be avail from your local hardware stores.

From here:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf


Try removing shifter assembly from vehicle - and use butane torch to heat shifter shaft below the ball - once heated, see if you can remove the ball.

The other option would be:
Get old metal cookie sheet - place shifter assembly in kitchen oven (providing there are NO other rubber or other plastic parts that will get damaged), heat to temp as noted by Loctite - and again try removing ball at that point.

If you can get the ball off - clean threads really well with a steel bristle brush or thread chaser.


Carry on...

 

[paul123]

I probably wouldn't hit that with a hammer, or torque it with a tool.

Maybe you could cut the plastic with a dremel, and then heat the remaining part with a torch. Although that sounds like a pain.

http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/How-to-Remove-Red-Threadlocker/
How to Remove Red Threadlocker

When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it's likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

yeah 550 degrees in a fully assembled brand new car with 120 miles on it.. lets think about that...... when it comes time for the new shifter, I'll just grab the dremel or sawzall and cut the top of the shift arm off.

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