Avoid G-Loc and Carbotech, their low dust pad is great on road, but really fades on track, all their pads above their street pad are too aggressive, dusty and noisy.
but they seem fine, in fact I can't really feel any difference to stock.
Hey mate,Hi there
Though happy with my PMAS for the extra performance and sound improvements it offers I was not particular happy about the very high IAT's compared to stock I was getting even with my opened up stock grill and velossa big mouth. So I went on the mission on how to get the IAT's back down to similar levels as the stock air box whilst not impacting flow and trying to also to reduce negative air pressure.
The best CAI will offer great flow, positive air pressure (ram air) and low IATs. The PMAS has high IATs as it has no snorkel to pull air from outside the engine bay and has negative air pressure due to its open design, on the flip side it has fantastic flow. PMAS did not do the below because it would make cost higher and install a lot hard, they designed a good intake to sell huge volumes off, which they have succeeded but it can for sure be improved upon.
A modification I made as soon as I got the car with the stock air box was to open up the front grill honeycombs and also fit a velossa big mouth to ensure only exterior colder denser air entered the air box, even better it was rammed in causing ram air effect on stock air box:
So I enlarged the PMAS heatshield front opening to accommodate the GT350 snorkel which I got from JDM for $38 as the PMAS comes with no snorkel from the factory as PMAS state the snorkel restricts flow on a standard car. From a discussion with PMAS they did say on a car with the grill opened up this may not be the case.
With the grill fully opened the car almost no longer needs to suck air through the opening because air is being forced into the heatshield and pressure increasing as momentum increases of the vehicle. Then to guarantee I was improving flow I made additional opening in the heatshield on cool wing side, same as Whipple air intake has and then a further opening in the bottom of the air box.
So I had the flow sorted by doubling size of the orifice in the heatshield compared to stock. So now I wanted to try and reduce the negative air pressure, it will never become positive (ram air) like a sealed intake but I can certainly reduce the negative pressure which is beneficial.
So I ran ducting from the air box to some brake cooling ducts I got and then put them on the areas of the car that see the most air flow, the lower front grill and underneath the car.
Removed Steed front splitter, large brake cooling duct glued in place:
Dremeled front lower grill and clipped into place another brake cooling duct:
Ducting was ran from these ducts directing into the PMAS heatshield, in essence the intake is not trying to suck air through holes simply because the air is being rammed in, so like push pull:
Then I discovered JLT are now supplying a foam insert with their latest revision of their CAI stating it helped reduce IAT, so I found some dense fire proof foam and cut it too shape, its not prettiest thing to look at, but the PMAS is the ugly ducking anyway and to remove take seconds for shows:
A better image of the ducting, I also smoke tested and all three ducts flow into the air box very well:
Some images of the final product, the ducting is very subtle and looks almost oem, those with USA lower frill could simply cable tie the ducting behind the grill, making install a little easier:
Bear in mind the above modifications can work for any intake and improving flow, increasing air pressure and lowering IAT's is only ever a good thing. The under car duct that goes into wing side of the air box would be ideal for Whipple air box which has the side already opened to further reduce IAT and create more positive pressure at speed to help feed the blower.
In short my PMAS now gives me similar IAT's to what my stock air box did which was improved with the open grill and Velossa big mouth which are 1-2c above ambient on highway, 3-5c above ambient on city driving and now when stopping at stop lights it takes a long time to hit 10c above and infact tends to hold at 6-8c at stop light and when pulling away heavy throttle is not required to bring temperatures right back down.
Might be placebo but the car feels stronger than ever, the throttle is snappier its so sharp and sensitive and if I floor it in 5th at 70mph the car absolutely pulls like a train, feels stronger on the high way for sure. Could be effect of the improved flow and increased air pressure, or just placebo. :lol:
I am happy, I have shared my findings, I am sure some will comment that PMAS removed the snorkel because it limited flow in their testing, well yes of course it would but with the above done the flow is further improved. Also PMAS built an intake to hit a great low price, spending R&D on snorkels and more complex air box / heatshield would increase the cost of the unit and make it more expensive.
Nothing is perfect and anything can be improved upon, that is why we mod because for us we have one aim, our own targets.
I plan to hit dyno soon and I shall do a dyno with hood up and all ducts disconnected from PMAS, this should yield best results with hood up. I shall then re-connect ducts/snorkels and put hood down and re-run.
Did you get it as a complete kit or seperate and where from?Hi there
Finally pulled the trigger, given up on pound recovering, looks only likely to plummet further, though knowing my luck, the pound will now sky rocket that I just dropped $1500.
I have following on the way:
COMPLETE Shelby GT350 INTAKE MANIFOLD PACKAGE
Get the High-Revving benefits of the Shelby GT350 without the High-Revving price with this complete Shelby GT350 Intake Manifold Package!
Much of the 8000+ RPM high-revving power from the Shelby GT350 Mustang is associated with the Flat Plane Crank in the 5.2L VooDoo Engine. While a Flat Plane Crank is certainly beneficial, it is not to only ingredient in the VooDoo’s high RPM Power. The VooDoo Intake manifold is key to helping the 5.2L Engine breath at higher RPMS preventing power from dropping off.
Not surprisingly, the 2015+ Coyote 5.0 Engine desires more air at high RPMs as well due to its Boss 302 inspired design. The GT350 intake manifold is a direct fit on the 2015+ Coyote Engine and DRASTICALLY increases high RPM power with little to NO LOSS IN TORQUE all while fitting under the stock hood with no modification!
Shelby GT350 INTAKE MANIFOLD PACKAGE BENEFITS:
- Peak Gains of 25+whp and 60+whp over 6500 RPMS!!
- OEM Quality, Fit and Finish
- Excellent Drivability
- Comes with everything needed for install on 2015+ Mustang GT (see notes)
- OEM Shelby GT350 Intake Manifold M-9424-M52
- OEM Shelby GT350 Throttle Body M-9926-M52 (Same as GR3Z-9E926-A)
- OEM Shelby GT350 Cold Air Intake & Scoop FR3Z-9600-E & FR3Z-9C675-B
- OEM Shelby GT350 D/S PCV Tube GR3Z-6758-A
- High-Flow AirAid Filter (RED OR BLUE)
Unfortunately unlikely to be here in time for the dyno day, let alone installed.
My expectations of this kit is to add 20-30BHP peak figure so around 475BHP at 7500rpm compared to the current 450BHP at 6400rpm. On the stock GT intake manifold power/torque drops off vastly past 6500rpm so at 7500rpm your around 400BHP, this Shelby intake manifold power holds at 475BHP right upto your desired redline (upto 8200rpm).
The guys in America are revving their engines over 8000rpm daily and it has being pretty much confirmed OPG/Sprocket, rod bearings are the same on voodoo and coyote.
So will I be revving to 8000+? NO!
My plan is to have my rev limiter reasonably high as it is now common knowledge what destroys the oil pump gears is torsional vibrations from forced induction (supercharger) and hitting the rev limiter, so keeping out the limiter is a good idea. Also the Coyote loses resolution past 7900rpm unless you modify the crank pulse ring.
As such I shall have two limiters, soft at 7700rpm (timing pulled) and hard limiter at 7900rpm. I am doing this as I actually only plan of revving the car upto 7500rpm, my reasoning for this is because that is what Ford designed the engine for and in their very own powerpack 3 which is this Shelby GT 350 kit they set the limiter at 7500rpm whilst still giving full warranty. I am not setting the limiter at 7500 for the simple reason I do not wish to be bumping into it.
I cannot wait to get this as the GT 350 throttle body is a two step design so the Americans who are running these kits (lots of them) rave about how much better the car drives and simply feels stronger than stock from as low as 3000rpm even though dyno charts only tend to show gains beyond 5500rpm, but obviously a dyno cannot show how much better/nicer a car is too drive.
After this is 1 7/8 catted headers which should put me around 520BHP and I will be running the Lund tune several guys are in the US with my only dis-advantage being Octane 93, whereas the US guys are running E85 which puts them at around 550-560BHP. But these guys are running 10.9-11.5s @ 120-125mph with this kit on manuals, so its quick for NA. Will my car be this quick, not quite due to Octane 93 and well the fact I cannot launch the car for toffee, but on a roll it will be a very quick car and having a powerband that pulls hard from 1500-7500rpm is rather exciting.
This does mean I will probably sell the PMAS CAI along with Shelby GT 350 duct (got another 350 duct coming) though I know it will be an easy sell as its a great "no tune" intake for those not wishing to tune and void warranty. I shall modify my IAT reducing mods to work with the Shelby kit.
Don't laugh if in a few months time I end up selling this GT 350 kit because I got bored with 500+ horsepower and just throw a Whipple on, haha.
